SJX
[Purist]
8540
SIHH 2012: Cartier Fine Watchmaking at SIHH 2012
Cartier Fine Watchmaking at SIHH 2012 comprises a solid and varied range. At the very top is a new calibre in the minute repeater, but there are also useful new entry level timepieces, like the new annual calendar with an eminently practical display.
We’ll start with the watches many have long asked for – with smaller case sizes. Two models have been unveiled, the first being the Rotonde Flying Tourbillon. It uses the same tourbillon calibre with Geneva Seal first seen in the Ballon Bleu tourbillon, except the case is a mere 40 mm.
And the dial is conservative in the traditional Cartier style – silvered guilloche with blue steel hands. The only indication this is a watch from the Fine Watchmaking range is the two-level dial, with the indices sitting above the guilloche base. This will retail for about EUR66,000 in rose gold and EUR70,600 in white gold, making this Cartier’s entry level tourbillon wristwatch.
Similar in style is the new Rotonde Perpetual Calendar. It has a 40.5 mm case and the same 1904 MC based calibre as the Tortue perpetual with retrograde day indicator. Like the Rotonde Flying Tourbillon, the dial styling is restrained. Pricing is also fairly accessible at EUR37,000 for rose gold and EUR39,600 for white gold.
Both this and the Rotonde Flying Tourbillon are well priced and classical in style, but not outstanding technically or visually. They serve as excellent entry level models for the FWM range however.
Another new model that is a variant of an existing piece is the Santos Dumont Skeleton in rose gold. Originally in white gold, then ADLC coated titanium, the Santos Dumont Skeleton is one of the best sellers of the FWM range.
Though physically identical to its siblings, the rose gold version is naturally much louder. This might work better for female wrists too, because the white gold version can look a bit cold. This is EUR30,000 or so, a bit less than the white gold skeleton.
It is a tourbillon, perpetual calendar and monopusher chronograph with eight day power reserve. The 52 mm case is white gold with skeletonised Roman numerals machined from a block of white gold. All the Roman numerals are hand-bevelled, front and back, which totals over 300 bevels calling for three weeks of work.
10 pieces will be made with a retail of EUR500,000. A further five with diamond-set cases will be available. The price generously includes a rock crystal and obsidian desk stand, as well as a matching white gold chain.
Also using an existing calibre is the new Cadran Love Tourbillon. The movement was first used in the crocodile tourbillon of 2011 and is openworked in a manner that gives it a pleasing architectural look. That is complemented by the concave Roman numerals that sweep across the left side of the dial. All of that – the movement and numerals – sit on a grey guilloche base.
Because of the design the case is 46.2 mm but result remains balanced and proportional. This would actually make a very attractive ladies watch. Though this is an aesthetic, rather than technical, innovation, it is beautifully executed.
A watch that has been designed specifically is the Panthere Masse Secrete. Not only is it a new model, but unusually for a ladies’ jewellery timepiece, it contains a clever new movement.
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For the rest of SJX's post in Cartier forum, http://cartier.watchprosite.com/show-forumpost/fi-886/pi-5084313/ti-765378/s-0/