Marcus Hanke
[PuristSPro Moderator]
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Basel 08 tasting notes: Ulysse Nardin is harvesting
Ulysse Nardin: the seed bears fruit
Basel 2008 impressions
by Marcus Hanke
It was a good decision to present the fascinating concept watch “InnoVision” far from the frantic watch fairs, in August 2007. Otherwise, its real importance might have been lost among all the various novelties shown there.
The InnoVision was - and is - a concept watch in purest sense; a technology demonstrator, integrated into the proven testbed of the “Freak”. Combining the advantages of the radically new DRIE silicium etching, and the LIGA nickel layering processes, the InnoVision featured no less than ten important technological innovations.
Of course it was merely a matter of time, until the first innovations of the InnoVision would be found in series production watches by Ulysse Nardin. However, it is very unusual to see that coming true so quickly, only eight months after the Innovision’s presentation.
With large pride, Ulysse Nardin could thereby present the “Silicium Sonata”, as the first series production watch ever that incorporates not only the escapement wheel made from silicium, but also three other, most crucial parts within the escapement, that are made from this highly advantageous material.
The “Silicium Sonata” makes use of four silicium parts in the escapement:
1. the escapement wheel
2. the hairspring (patent pending)
3. the anchor with integrated safety pin, and
4. the roller with integrated impulse finger.
While the silicium escapement wheel already was part of the revolutionary “Freak”, when it was released in its first version, the silicium hairspring was an element of the InnoVision, and its important for future watchmaking cannot be underestimated. Already as early as 2001, Prof. Dr. Ludwig Oechslin conducted various tests with silicium hairsprings, but the technology then still was far from perfect; the hairsprings tested were grossly affected by temperature changes, and also rather brittle.
Yet it was clear already from the first test results, that, as soon as these problems would be overcome, silicium hairsprings would be an appropriate replacement for standard Nivarox hairsprings, with the huge advantage of the silicium etching process permitting variations in the coils’ thickness, and the direct integration of collet and stud with the ends of the hairspring.
The Silicium Sonata is now the first serially produced Ulysse Nardin watch with such a silicium hairspring. For us it would be highly interesting now to test the hairspring’s performance in varying temperatures, which is where the silicium material could play out its strengths against the metallic Nivarox hairsprings.
In addition to escapement wheel and hairspring, the anchor and the roller are made from silicium. But unlike the aforementioned parts, the latter are not simply flat, but rather complex 3D-shaped. Only the new DRIE etching process, developed by Sigatec, a joint venture company founded by Ulysse Nardin and Mimotec, permits the production of such parts. This is another “first” in the watch industry.
Of course, such a wonderful and technologically advanced timepiece should reflect its revolutionary insides on the outside already. Consequently, the major part of the dial is crafted from a mirror-polished silicium wafer in its original anthracite colour, while the anchor logo placed in the movement’s oscillating mass is embedded into the same material. Additionally, the movement bridges are galvanised in a dark grey colour.
As already mentioned, the Silicium Sonata is a series produced watch, albeit limited. 300 pieces each are made in 18k white and pink gold.
Aside this masterpiece of technical innovation, Ulysse Nardin also showed the in my eyes most attractive variant of the current “Freak”, the “Blue Phantom”, that hitherto had not been shown in Europe. What a wonderful watch! Aside the still thrilling technical aspects of this timepiece, I like the fact that it is only Freak that can be read in the dark, since the arrowheads of hour and minute are covered with SuperLuminova.
If you visit this forum for a longer while already, you might be familiar with my ‘perpetual nagging’ for a chronograph version of the Marine Diver. Finally, my wish was fulfilled, although a little bit different from what I had imagined. The long-desired Maxi Marine Diver Chronograph features a distinctive dial, which in its complexity is a clear departure from the rather clear livery of the standard Marine Diver chronometer. First comments on various internet fora were not entirely favourable, but - as always - the fundamental wisdom of all watch collecting has to be applied: never judge a watch from pictures alone!
I was sincerely impressed by the massive watch I got to hold in my hands. The three-dimensional dial, with the unique markers on the subdials of small seconds and minutes counter, invites to inspect it closely. The execution of it is flawless, and the hands - as I am used from UN - with absolutely stunning finish.
The case is rated watertight to 200 meters, in spite of the date corrector pusher at 10. As you might know, the tri-/bicompax variant of the popular Valjoux 7750, the Valjoux 7753, had to sacrifice the date quick-adjustment via the crown, in favour of the more attractive subdial placement. Instead, an adjustment pusher is located in the case. I can only speculate why UN did not use the much thinner ETA 2894 movement, that is the base of the Maxi Marine Chronograph; maybe it has to do with the difficult supply situation of ETA movements. ETA has frozen the number of movements a company may order to the level of some years ago. That means, if a new model is presented, or the production rate increased, a watch brand will not get more movements from ETA to equip them. So it could be the case that UN simply does not get enough 2894s, neither from ETA directly, nor from Dubois-Dépraz. But, once again, this is purely speculative. Maybe there are some technical reasons for the movement choice.
Anyway, a most convenient feature of the new Marine Diver chronograph is the fact that the pushers are not screwed down, but are ready to be used all the time; finally!
Another new chronograph within the Marine series is the limited edition “Blue Seal”, an attractive mixture of the Maxi Marine Chronograph case and movement with the Marine Diver dial and hands. Both, dial and the blue rubber strap show the outlines of a seal (or is it a wave?). For my taste, the minute hand is far too short, it barely reaches the huge hour markers.
The “Blue Seal” is limited to 999 pieces in 18k pink gold, and 1846 pieces in stainless steel.
Remaining with the Marine series, I was also shown a very yummy Maxi Marine Chronograph and a Maxi Marine Chronometer with dark brown/burgundy dials and matching straps.
And finally, UN also releases a new cloisonné enamel watch, this time showing the British vessel HMS Achille, a third rate ship-of-the-line (not a frigate, as is wrongly stated in Ulysse Nardin’s press release, but who says the Swiss have to understand all naval terms? 
). HMS Achille participated in the famous battle of Trafalgar, fighting there against its French namesake ship “Achille”, with neither of them finding the other’s heel ...
Unfortunately, I was not able to photograph this particular piece, so as an exception I am adding the official press picture here. Of course, the watch is a limited edition of 30 in platinum and 18 in pink gold.
Unfortunately, Ulysse Nardin is not an exception, regarding the fashionable trend towards ever increasing watch diameters. The Maxi Marine Diver gets an even bigger brother with 45mm diameter. How this watch will be called? "Macro Maxi Diver?" - "Mega Maxi Diver"? "Maxi Maxi Diver?" I don't know. Whatever it's name will be, the watches shown in Basel are not the definite production status, and therefore could not be photographed. On the other end of the scale, I am now wearing a lady's watch: the classic 40mm Marine Diver will now only be made as "Lady Diver":
To sum up my impressions, I am happy to see that after a year of consolidation, Ulysse Nardin is steaming ahead with full throttle. The InnoVision gave an indication of the route UN is taking, and the stunning Silicium Sonata is a new milestone along it.
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