Independents
Cozmopak initiates a critical discussion on Xhevdet Rexhepi's latest independent creation, a deadbeat seconds watch with a unique minute jump complication. He challenges the prevailing social media acclaim, offering a detailed critique of its design elements and questioning the industry trend of pre-selling high-value timepieces based solely on digital renderings. This article explores the nuanced perspectives of collectors on supporting emerging independent watchmakers.
Rexhep’s brother recently unveiled his new watch, a type of dead beat minutes watch where the second hand stops at 60 for two seconds, allowing for the minute hand to jump forward instantly.
It’s an interesting complication and one that I haven’t seen before.
The watch is priced at 83k CHF, and fifty examples will be made. The proportions are beautiful at 38mm and just north of 8mm in thickness.
The watch has received glowing accolades across the social media universe, so I might be one of the very few detractors in saying that I don’t like it.
The dial is uninspired to my eyes. The spoon shaped hour hand doesn’t work for me. The case is interesting and reminds me of a disco volante shape, but the way the lugs abruptly angle downward is jarring. The movement has appeal, but I hope that those geneva stripes turn out much finer than on the rendering.
And this brings me to one of my biggest pet peeves regarding the new crop of watchmakers: young, up and coming talent, requesting huge sums of money based on a computer rendering. Call me old fashioned, but I personally would feel extremely uncomfortable handing money to an unproven maker without first seeing a physical prototype. I am much more willing to give allowances to established artisans like Voutilainen or Gauthier, who have a proven track record of success.
But for someone engaging in their first independent attempt, I require a physical product and all the blood, sweat and tears that creating one entails. Simply being associated with a lauded watchmaker does not qualify as strong credentials in my book. The current crop of collectors, though, constantly chasing for the next best watch, afraid to miss any opportunity, has allowed for this type of behavior.
I’ll end by saying that I believe Xhevdet has a bright future.
But I agree with your points on the hands and lugs. Not my first choice in this price range either.
The lugs are insane, the movement is ok and the dial doesn't work. I don't see how this is in any way comparable to the amazing RRCC II, or any other watch by Akrivia for that matter.
movement to be a bit uninspiring and "plain Jane" so to speak.
It doesn’t matter what we think, these will fly off the atelier table like hot cakes. We live in a world of ‘buy sight-unseen and then see if you like it or not’ 😟
Sounds like the Mobatime/Mondaine railway clock complication.
You see it in the housing market, cars and watches. It seems that people are a little more cautious and bracing for potential impact when this crazy ride comes to an end. At least I know I am, I have three watches on order and then I go back into hibernation. I agree with Cozmo's view on this watch 100% as well.
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