Vintage Watches: Ahead of Its Time
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Vintage Watches: Ahead of Its Time

By sham1 · Nov 26, 2025 · 33 replies
sham1
WPS member · Independents forum
33 replies1283 views7 photos
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sham1's insightful post revisits the Icon Duesey, a watch that, despite its innovative jump hour and minute display, struggled to find its audience upon its 2017 release. He argues that the market has finally caught up to its unique aesthetic, with several major brands now releasing similar, highly sought-after digital display timepieces. This piece explores whether the Icon Duesey was simply ahead of its time, offering a compelling case for re-evaluating its place in horological history.

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In 2017, Jonathan Ward, a Californian car restorer of 4x4 and off road vehichles came up with the novel idea of a lovely watch called the Icon Duesey which tells the time without hands but instead with two separate windows, one for the jump hour and one for the minutes. The watch had a dial made of real onyx and spotted a module from a Dubois Depraz which had been added to the ETA2892-A2 automatic movement. The case was in sand blasted grade 2 titanium while the bezel was in grade 5 titanium, and the watch although 42mm in diameter, wore like a 38mm due to the position of the lugs. Released in a limited edition of 50 pieces, after 8 years, 2 still remain unsold on the website. Some may attribute this to the USD11,500 retail price which was quite a hefty amount even in 2025 let alone in 2017. Others may argue that this method of telling the time is quite niche and not very popular among collectors.

Fast forward to 2025 and I have noticed no fewer than 4 brands that have introduced very similar watches this year and they have proven to be extremely popular. Two are a lot more expensive than the Icon Duesey and two a lot less expensive. The Cartier Tank Guichet and the Louis Vuitton Tambour Convergence have waiting lists while the Maen and the Zentier offer remarkable value for money at less than a tenth of the price of the Icon Duesey.

For me, the Icon Duesey is a class act which has been under appreciated by collectors, possibly because of its price, possibly because Icon is not exactly a reputable brand but more likely too because the watch was launched 8 years too early! I personally do not buy a brand, I buy a watch for what it is irrespective of the brand! smile And I must salute Jonathan for having the foresight and bravado to produce this hidden gem amidst 8 years too early! smile




The Icon Duesey with its Onyx dial was chosen as a tribute to the dashboard of Duesenberg cars.




You might notice a gecko on the movement which is a symbol of Jonathan’s brand




Great on the wrist!




The sought after Cartier Tank Guichet




My favourite LV ever, the Tambour Convergence




The Maen which comes with a green or burgundy dial




The Zentier with its lapis lazuli dial


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The Discussion
TH
Thomas_3
Nov 26, 2025

I would want a bit more than that.

BI
Bill
Nov 26, 2025

Its unique disc-display design and historical significance as part of the award-winning Moving Design Collection.

SH
sham1
Nov 26, 2025

but if this watch was from one of the big brands even with the same movement, we would see it as good value!

SH
sham1
Nov 26, 2025

Thank you for sharing. I had no idea Seiko had produced this watch.

TH
Thomas_3
Nov 26, 2025

For $11,500 I would want more than a small window showing the time.

SH
sham1
Nov 26, 2025

you will not be putting your name down for the Cartier tank guichets! )

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