Urwerk UR-110 Eastwood & UR-210S Full Metal Jacket
Independents

Urwerk UR-110 Eastwood & UR-210S Full Metal Jacket

By DonCorson · Jan 19, 2015 · 10 replies
DonCorson
WPS member · Independents forum
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DonCorson provides an exclusive look at Urwerk's novelties from Geneva Watch Week 2015, showcasing three new variations that push the boundaries of design and material use. His post highlights the innovative UR-110 'Eastwood' with its unique hardwood bezels and the UR-210S 'Full Metal Jacket' with its integrated stainless steel bracelet, offering readers a detailed preview of these independent horological creations.

Urwerk at the Geneva Watch Week 2015

Urwerk showed us 3 new variations of existing designs.
The UR-110 "Eastwood" with hardwood bezels are very original.  Somehow the watches exude a sense of calm from this organic cover they are wearing.  The woods can really be seen and appreciated as the UR-110 besel has a large surface.  The edges are protected by a titanium frame that also lightens up the aspect of the watch.  The bezels are in high density tropical woods that have been chosen for good looks but also for their special charactoristics that make them suiable for this application, most importantly small dimensional change with humidity, but also for their good machining charactoristics.  Interestingly these hardwoods cause faster tool degradation than steel or titanium.  This UR-110 Eastwood will be the last version of the UR-110.
5 pieces are being made with Indonesian Macassar ebony bezels and 5 pieces with South African Red Ivory wood bezels.















These hardwood bezels are paired with tweed bands designed by the Londen bespoke tailer Timothy Everest.  Wool tweed is a very durable fabric. One of the designs selected is Prince of Wales check, brown and blue on ivory fabric.  The other is a chevron tweed.
























The UR-210S is a UR-210 “Full Metal Jacket ” with an additional stainless steel bracelet.  I think everyone who put it on wanted to leave with it.  The bracelet by Maspoli has a wonderful feel and the look is such that one could think that the watch was designed originally with this bracelet.  Take a look yourself.

































































About the Urwerk Ref. UR-110

The UR-110, known as the "Torpedo," represents a significant evolution in Urwerk's satellite time display architecture. It departs from the earlier UR-200 series by introducing a new configuration where the three rotating hour satellites are mounted on planetary gears, which in turn orbit a central carousel. This design allows the hour indicators to remain parallel to each other as they traverse the minute track on the right side of the case, offering a distinct visual and mechanical interpretation of time. The model is characterized by its asymmetrical case and the prominent minute track.

The watch features a mechanical self-winding movement, the UR-9.01, which provides a substantial power reserve. The case is typically constructed from a combination of materials, often titanium for the main body with a contrasting bezel material. The crystal is sapphire, providing durability and clarity for viewing the complex display. The case dimensions are notable for their presence on the wrist, reflecting the brand's design philosophy.

For collectors, the UR-110 is a key reference that showcases Urwerk's commitment to unconventional timekeeping and advanced mechanical engineering. It appeals to those interested in horological innovation and a departure from traditional watchmaking aesthetics. The model has been produced in various material combinations and finishes, each offering a unique character within the UR-110 series, solidifying its place as a distinctive piece in contemporary independent watchmaking.

Specifications

Caliber
UR-9.01
Case
Titanium and steel
Diameter
47mm x 51mm
Dial
Black
Water Resist.
30m
Crystal
Sapphire

Key Points from the Discussion

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The Discussion
TO
tom2517
Jan 19, 2015

I had the privilege of trying it on two weeks ago at Urwerk Geneva, it's a very solid watch. Personally i think the minute retrograde hand should also be in silver, to give it a complete silverfish look, but they told me Felix and Martin wanted the black hand so there's more contrast.

MA
Mark in Paris
Jan 19, 2015

I always loved brushed Steel or Titanium cases. That's why I always prefered the very first 110 Torpedo version from the following versions. So I guess this is why I like this 210 S in full "white" color (case + dial). Maybe I prefer the strap though compared to this bracelet. Thanks a lot for sharing those live pictures Don :) Cheers, Mark

RO
Ronald Held
Jan 19, 2015

Bracelet versus a strap?

DO
DonCorson
Jan 20, 2015

The watch is not a lightweight, but not overweight either, in grams I can't tell you the answer. I would say that it has a very satisfying heft. As I said, everyone who tried it one wanted to take it with them. It is just "right". Don

PA
patrick_y
Jan 28, 2015

Where was Geneva watch week held this year? I'm still wondering if wood still belongs on a watch. I find the whole thing bizarre.

DO
DonCorson
Jan 30, 2015

or as some say Geneva Wonder Week, is the term for everything else happening, presented by non-SIHH brands, during the SIHH time period. Some companies have big digs at their premises, others use hotel suites to present. At SIHH time I make appointments to see some brands in the hotels, the SIHH itself is not my kind of deal. Don

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