Speake-Marin Serpent Calendar Review

gfoo offers an intimate, long-term review of his Speake-Marin Serpent Calendar, sharing insights gained from extensive travel with the timepiece. His detailed observations highlight the watch's unique aesthetic and functional qualities, providing a valuable perspective for collectors considering this independent watchmaker's creation. The review emphasizes the Serpent Calendar's unexpected role as an ideal travel companion.

I’m late reviewing this - but this delay has enabled me to take a much more intimate look at my new acquisition - the PSM Serpent Calendar. Over the past few weeks since I obtained it, my Serpent has visited South India, Kuala Lumpur, Hong Kong, Bali, and lots of Jakarta and Singapore. And there’s a reason for this. By far, the PSM is - at least to me - the best travel watch I’ve ever owned.

The new Serpent Calendar by Speake-Marin is his 2nd attempt at the iconic Picadilly serpent calendar - and all the better for it. A pristine white dial, without a single imperfection, and just glows - apparently because of multiple layers of lacquer carefully applied over a copper base. Black roman numerals are imprinted in black providing an aesthetically pleasing contrast to the stark white of the dial. Imprinted text is raised in intaglio and finished with the same gloss as the dial. I hardly say this of my pieces but the dial is perfection personified - the glossy surface amplifies this effect.

The blue steeled ‘Foundation’ hands seem playful enough and lend some character to the piece, but it’s really the squiggly date hand that stands out. At certain times of the day when the alignment is just right, the spade hour hand with the squiggly (‘serpent’) date hand combined, look more like a particularly determined reproductive fella than a serpent. And therein lies the naughty charm of this piece.

Casework is exceptional, and the design of the protruding lugs makes it visually arresting and unique. Good or bad, the flawlessness of the dial and case elements lend an almost Rolex-like feel at least with regards to quality. Has this really been assembled by hand, or is the assembly-line completely mechanized? I’ve been assured its the former.

The tang buckle, however is harsh. Sharp edges can dig in to the skin if you’re not careful, and especially so for a strap that hasn’t yet been broken in. I had to replace it with my own aftermarket deployant (as PSM deployants are not yet an option i’ve been told). The leather is nothing to wax superlative on - middle of the pack quality and I’m being generous.

The eccentric rotor has inwards curves like no other, and finished to a very high degree. Similarities to MB&F’s battleaxe does crop up once in a while (after all PSM did work on the HM1). The only failing here is the use of PVD rather than heat-treating it for that blue color.

The movement however, gives me mixed emotions. Based on a Technotime ebauche, it’s really nothing to write home about. Some circular brushed graining on the movement plate and a little black polishing here and there is all you’re going to get. No gold chatons, no further finishing on harsh edges - it’s almost as if they’ve taken what Technotime has given them, and straight into the case it goes. Furthermore, the degree movement finishing across various ranges differ greatly - even if they use the same ebauche. For example, I’ve come across a boutique-only edition of the new Spirit that DOES have all the fine finishing SOPs in traditional watchmaking from the independents - cotes, waves, sunbursts, anglage etc. Perhaps a more consistent adherence to finishing standards commensurate to certain expectations of indies would be good thing in the long run. And they’ve done this with their Marin-1 and Thalassa in-house movements - even Dufour commented on the exceptional finishing on the Thalassa that many Basels ago.

PSM has the ability to really shake up the market if they want to. Just a few more puzzles to solve!

But regardless of finishing, the movement is still a stellar, reliable workhorse that packs 72hrs of reserve across two barrels - highly accurate, and quiet. The large crown makes it easy to wind, even with driving gloves on, and very easy to set across timezones. Its weight is robust, but not heavyset - very nicely balanced that reminds you that you’ve got something on the wrist, but not that heavy to become cumbersome.

I get more compliments from friends, fellow and newly-met travellers about this watch than any other in my collection. The brightness of the dial juxtaposed against playful ‘sperm-like’ hands is refreshing especially in tired airport lounges.

Pricing for this is very good - a tremendous bargain by any standards; and even more so amongst the AHCI indies. But from recent interviews and the sense exuded from the product - it seems as if PSM is at some kind of crossroads - balancing the fine line between what the market views of indies: low quantities, largely hand made, a focus on finishing and innovation, etc - and that with going more mass market: larger quantities, more affordable, but still of high quality. This reminded me of Chronoswiss and Gerd R Lang - the right things done, and the wrong things done. Balancing acts are hard, and I hope PSM crosses well and finds its path.

If you’re looking for a exceptionally high quality watch that looks amazing, has great character, and isn’t as boring (or common) as the big boys out there - the PSM Serpent Calendar is a very well priced and respectable entry to the world of independent watchmaking. Even to play at a higher level - PSM already has the skills, movement, and knowhow to really shake up the market. I’m looking forward to what they have up their sleeves next.