Speake-Marin Bespoke Watchmaking Process

SJX presents an exclusive interview with Peter Speake-Marin, delving into the intricate process of creating a custom or bespoke watch. The article highlights the 'Imperial Piccadilly,' a unique piece crafted for a Russian client, and offers preliminary sketches of another custom project for an anonymous Purist.

Peter Speake-Marin recently completed a unique wristwatch for a Russian client, the 'Imperial Piccadilly'. In the following interview he shares with us the process of ordering and creating a custom or bespoke watch. In fact, a prominent Purist, who remains anonymous, is himself in the process of ordering a custom Speake-Marin and he was kind enough to share some preliminary sketches of the watch with us here .

Many thanks to Daniela Speake-Marin for facilitating this interview.

_____________________________________________________________________________

Su JiaXian (SJX) : How did the client come to learn of you?

Captive in Time  

Peter Speake-Marin (PSM) : The client came to us because he had seen an image of one of our simple hand engraved pieces as well as ‘Captive in Time’ in a Russian magazine and he wanted to see one in person.   His basic goal in commissioning the watch was influenced through his ring which was a combination of the Russian imperial eagle engraved and set in diamonds on a brown enamel backing, the ring itself was in red gold.

SJX : Why did the client chose to commission a watch from you as opposed to another independent watchmaker?

PSM : There are several companies that could realise such a project however the basic design and classical nature of my own style appealed to my client and influenced the decision to work together.

SJX : Is there any special significance, historical or personal, behind the ring?

PSM : The ring was tailor made for the client at his request, the content is essentially the Russian Imperial Emblem.

SJX : Can you tell us more about the collaborative process between you and the client which resulted in the final product?

PSM : The client states what his motivation and design direction is, I need to have an over view to understand the spirit of the project, in this case the foundation was a ring but the watch will never look identical to the ring, so it is essential to have a clear view of what the client really wants and to form a base upon which to work, immediately clarifying as many points as possible to avoid confusion or a waste of time on anybody’s side.

In this case I made some sketches incorporating his design into the Piccadilly design with samples of my previous pieces as a guide line. It is important to realise that the final watch will never look identical to the sketches that are made, they purely to generate a direction for the final watch.

At this stage the client reviews my drawings and if necessary we discuss further or launch the project. I try to give updates when possible to the development of the watch, however I prefer whenever possible to wait and show the watch when it is finished. Nobody can really fully imagine the final watch until it is complete and then even in photo’s the watches rarely live up to their real beauty as seen in real life.

SJX : What was most challenging about this particular watch?

PSM : Finding the correct base for the sculpted eagle to be set on, the original [on the ring] was enamel but lacked the life and contrast I was looking for with the wristwatch. I had various samples of stone sent to me for consideration and finally found a piece of sard agate which was then machined to be used as the base for the eagle.

The eagle is cut and engraved by hand by master engraver Kees Engelbarts who previously collaborated with Speake-Marin on 'Fighting Time' and 'Captive in Time'.

And then set with diamonds.

Eagle and dial ring on the agate base before the base is machined.

The happy client with his watch and ring.

SJX : As a watchmaker, what is especially gratifying about creating a custom-made watch?

PSM : To be able to make something that is unique.

SJX : On an industry level, Vacheron now offers bespoke or custom watches as well, do you see such watches becoming more prevalent?

PSM : In the future I believe that with the growing number of companies that exist and the growing level of pertinence of collectors this is inevitable. From my view [from] small town Rolle I get the impression that there is an increasing number of watch enthusiasts that become collectors, and these collectors become ever increasingly educated through the internet, moving from the mid-level big brands to the high end empires, and then often stumble into the independents world in search of diversity which again shows another avenue of horology.

As collectors new and old grow and [get a] clearer [idea] as to what it is they like and want, I believe this will nurture a market for watches that are increasing made to the direct specifications of their future owner rather than off the shelf as is so often the way, even in the case of limited edition watches. It will never be a large market but it will grow.

SJX : What advice would you give to someone who is considering commissioning a custom or bespoke watch from you?

PSM : Have the clearest idea possible of what it is you want and try to develop a descent communication with the watchmaker who will make the piece, never make assumptions as to what something will look like without having discussed it first.

Daniela Speake-Marin (DSM) : Many people are worried about how we get the watches to them, we keep the option open of the client coming to Rolle to pick up the watch, visit the workshop and even have lunch together if time permits. On the export side all forms for exporting the watch from Switzerland are filled out for the client so customs clearance is fast and efficient; the procedure is also explained so that there are no surprises at the airport.

We have also sent watches to individuals all around the world, for example in the U.S., Taiwan, Australia, Russia. We monitor the shipment from the moment it leaves our premises to the moment it is delivered.

Confidentiality is taken very seriously and we will not place an image on our website or show your watch in printed form to other clients without your consent.

We do everything we can to make the experience as easy as possible and a real pleasure for the client.

SJX : What is the approximate starting price for a watch similar to the Imperial Piccadilly?

PSM : The final price of the watches always remaining confidential, we have made commissioned and personalised watches from CHF40,000 up to CHF150,000.

SJX : Thank you!