Petermann Bédat Ref. 1967: A New Independent Star's Debut

Key Points from the Discussion

• The Petermann Bédat 1967 is seen as an admirable debut from young watchmakers, drawing comparisons to Akrivia's early immaculate finishing but at a more accessible price point relative to its superior movement design and finishing, especially considering their background at A. Lange & Söhne.
• The semi-open dial, designed by Barth Studio and made by Comblémine, highlights the craftsmanship by framing the rubies, which are vital movement elements. The white gold version, in particular, draws attention to the placement of the jeweled bearings.
• While initial photos might suggest a lack of symmetry due to the open window and visible jewels, the watch's appearance can differ significantly in person, emphasizing the importance of seeing such pieces firsthand.
• The hands' unique shape is a standout feature, contributing to the watch's overall solid craftsmanship, even if the dial's aesthetic is a matter of personal taste for some.
• The dial can be interpreted as a ring with a transparent center and four indices, drawing a parallel to design elements seen in watches like Roger Smith's Series 5, acknowledging that such design choices will always have proponents and detractors.
• The contrast between the open works and the dial elements is more pronounced in person, creating a cohesive and less distracting aesthetic that works nicely.