Independents
AndrewD offers an intimate glimpse into the atelier of independent watchmaker Paul Gerber in Zurich, providing a rare look at a traditional, in-house approach to horology. This post highlights Gerber's dedication to craftsmanship, from design to component manufacturing, and his commitment to training the next generation of watchmakers. Readers gain appreciation for the meticulous process behind truly handmade timepieces.
Visiting the Gerber Atelier in Zurich provides a glimpse into what watchmaking must have been like 200 years ago in Switzerland: a workshop within the family home, all the design and innovations built and tested in-house and the majority of parts being made in-house with a few specialist components (such as case and hairspring) being produced by specialist manufactures. Even the dials are made and engraved or guilloched in-house before being sent to a dial printer.
I was made to feel like part of the family when I visited Paul and Ruth's Atelier last October. The horological gods were smiling down on the trip because I had beautiful sunshine and clear skies when it had been raining heavily the week before. And it was fantastic to have a glimpse into the life of a small independent watchmaker. My German is non-existent but we were able to converse for hours with some help from Google Translate and a lot of pointing and laughter.
Paul's cars (he has always owned Fiat's and his Fiat 600 from 1962 is immortalized on the seconds hand of a Model 42) are parked in front of the house because his garage is full of CNC machines β in fact he was excited when the house heating was converted from oil to natural gas because the space where the oil was stored became available for more equipment!
Witech 604 CNC vertical milling machine. The dials, amongst other components, are produced here ...
Paul has three watchmakers working with him: two apprentices and one experienced watchmaker who have been with Paul for four years. In fact several watchmakers have now been trained by Paul and will be able to provide service for his watches for years to come. [In fact some of these watchmakers now work for Urwerk whose manufacture is based in Zurich and Felix Baumgartner spoke very highly of their skill.]
The welcome mat ...
De Bethune DB25 Reference DB25
The DB25 represents De Bethune's entry in the 44.5mm manual-wind category, distinguished by its silver dial configuration within the DB25 series. This reference launched in 2006 and continues the brand's approach to contemporary haute horlogerie complications.
The 44.5mm case is crafted from 18k white gold with a fixed bezel and sapphire crystal. Water resistance extends to 30 meters. The manual-winding caliber DB2105 movement provides a substantial 120-hour power reserve. The watch features a leather strap attachment.
This reference appeals to collectors seeking De Bethune's technical approach to timekeeping in a precious metal case. The extended power reserve and manual-wind operation position it for enthusiasts who appreciate hands-on interaction with their timepieces. The 44.5mm sizing places it in contemporary proportions within the independent watchmaking segment.
..and thank you for that, Andrew! Ken
I remember him well at IGOTT2. Such a kind and soft spoken gentleman. A real artist in every sense of the word. Bravo Mr. Gerber. Thanks Bill
thanks for the report. Definitely makes you appreciate the time and effort that goes into making a "hand made" piece, and I would class this as hand made in house compared to others. In comparison to the big names that "pump out" pieces with no soul, and I'm one of those that bought many of these, I will think twice next time. Thanks to PG for letting us see it all. Cheers Steve
from manufactory of Bravo & thank you Damjan
Is a gentleman and craftsman.
Paul has done so much work for other manufactures, but much of this is unknown. Even when I visited he showed me mechanical goodies he was creating for others, but these must be kept secret. Perhaps one day the information will get out. But he reserves a special place for his own creations, be they watches, clocks or novel escapements. An unassuming horological hero. Andrew
This thread is active on the Independents forum with 14 replies. Share your knowledge with fellow collectors.
Join the Discussion →
