Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar: Choosing Between Ref. 5327 and 5496

Abu Alex · 2020-01-06T07:24:09Z

Explore a Patek Philippe perpetual calendar dilemma: Ref. 5327 vs. Ref. 5496. Collectors weigh in on movements, aesthetics, and wrist presence.

Abu Alex

WPS member · Patek Philippe forum

26 replies7274 views1 photos

In this insightful discussion, Abu Alex seeks the WatchProSite community's expertise to navigate a significant Patek Philippe perpetual calendar decision: the Ref. 5327 versus the Ref. 5496. His initial preferences highlight the classic movement of the 5327 and the legibility of the 5496, setting the stage for a nuanced exploration of these two distinguished references. This thread offers valuable perspectives for anyone weighing the aesthetic and technical merits of Patek Philippe's perpetual calendars.

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I am leaning towards the 5237 because of the movement used and towards the 5496 due to its Calatrava case design and the easier legibility (in my opinion) but I am not a big fan of retrograde dates.

About the Breguet Classique Ref. 5327

The Breguet Classique reference 5327 represents the Date Moonphase series within the model range, distinguished by its combination of calendar and lunar phase complications. This reference positions itself as a dress watch offering within the Classique lineup, incorporating both practical and astronomical display functions.

The watch features a 39mm case constructed from 18k white gold, fitted with a sapphire crystal and fixed bezel configuration. The silver dial houses the date and moonphase displays, while an automatic movement provides the mechanical foundation. Water resistance extends to 30 meters, suitable for daily wear scenarios.

This reference appeals to collectors seeking a complications-focused dress watch in precious metal construction. The 39mm case size accommodates contemporary sizing preferences while maintaining formal proportions. The white gold case material and silver dial combination creates a monochromatic aesthetic that suits both the Date Moonphase series identity and broader Classique collection positioning.

Specifications

Caliber: 591DRL

Case: 18k White Gold

Diameter: 39 mm

Dial: Silver

Water Resist.: 30m

Crystal: Sapphire

Key Points from the Discussion

The Patek Philippe Ref. 5496's retrograde date is a highly complex and unusual feature, offering constant dial activity due to its sweep seconds hand and day/month windows. Despite its greater complication, it was noted to be approximately $3,000 USD less than the 5327, possibly due to the 5327's legendary thin Caliber 240 movement.
The Patek Philippe Ref. 5327 is praised for its modernization, ideal 38mm case size for a 17cm wrist, and the warmth of its rose gold case paired with a cream lacquered dial and Breguet numerals. Its design is seen as carrying the DNA of the classic 3940 while offering contemporary benefits, powered by the reliable Caliber 240Q movement.
While the slim Caliber 240 movement in the 5327 is appreciated, the use of Breguet numerals is perceived by some as a 'quick and dirty fix' to mask the small movement, resulting in subdials positioned too close to the center.
The moonphase on the Patek Philippe Ref. 5496 was described as appearing 'cheap' or 'too blank' by one collector, suggesting a potential aesthetic drawback for some.
The retrograde date dial of the Patek Philippe Ref. 5496, while a great complication, left one user feeling that something was 'empty' or 'missing' around the moonphase subdial, indicating a subjective aesthetic concern.
The original poster ultimately decided against both the 5327 and 5496, finding the 5496's retrograde date unappealing and the 5327's dial too busy, with its large bezel making it appear smaller than its 39mm diameter.

The Discussion

Brandon Skinner

Jan 6, 2020

I would choose 5327

For the reason I truly love the micro rotor.

Pretty Boy

Jan 6, 2020

5496 in platinum with honey-brown dial.

With some patience you will find a good one at a decent price. Best, V.

Miles_151

Jan 6, 2020

5327 in a heartbeat.

Beautiful watch. Hope this helps. Miles.

patekova

Jan 6, 2020

Two wonderful watches. The choice for me would be 5496R, but based upon your less than positive feelings about the retrograde, perhaps you would prefer 5327R.

For me the biggest selling point of the 5496 is the retrograde, a highly complex and unusual feature. Also I like that there is constant activity on the dial because of the sweep seconds hand. Also I like the day and month windows. I like that it is chunkier and larger than the 5327. In my view, a bit sportier. Perhaps not a factor for you but approximate $3,000 USD less, which makes no sense to me in light of it being more complicated (perhaps it is because 5327 has the legendary thin 240 movem

Catulle

Jan 6, 2020

The seconds hand is the deal breaker. Never liked the 3940 (and larger teratomas of the same watch) because of the lack of a seconds hand. [nt]

Spangles - Dr. Tabby

Jan 6, 2020

Ooh, teratoma! I didn't expect to see that used to describe a watch,

But now that you have, I see that it could fit very well sometimes. A seconds hand is a must for me as well. The watch seems alive with it.