
Mark in Paris delivers a comprehensive first look at Patek Philippe's 2017 novelties from Baselworld, offering an editorial perspective on the brand's balanced approach to classical and contemporary designs. This post highlights Patek Philippe's continuous evolution, introducing 24 new references that blend tradition with modern sensibilities, ensuring their relevance for new generations of collectors.
Dear all,
Patek Philippe has just unveiled the new 2017 collection!
As usual, we’ll all discover what we might have expected or sometimes be surprised by unplanned models. This will be the appetizers before we can handle them and make our final opinion.
The brand has shown a nice balance between classical, casual, small, bigger and more or less complicated models. Those 24 new references are taking place in a period where it is important to remain curious and daring, especially for us who have a lot of expectations every time something new is coming out and especially as far as Patek Philippe is concerned.
I’m glad to see that the case shape diversity and complexity are still as enjoyable and make Patek Philippe to be in that position that not many brands can promote. The tempered evolution of the collections, year after year, is an exercise where the brand has a strong experience, bringing touches of modernity while remaining a deeply traditional brand, in line with its legacy.
Clothing style, how we live today, what kind of watches we need, what kind of philosophy we wish to be in line with, all these elements evolve and have to be taken into account when considering a new collection. Some may be tempted to like it remaining indefinitely as it was in the past, others wish to bring too much popular ingredients but that’s not how to be successful on the long run and how to participate to evolutions.
On the contrary to what people may think, the DNA evolves slightly decades after decades by small touches and enables the brand to remain in the coveted position where it is today.
This collection is definitely in line with this philosophy, being traditional with a touch of contemporary.
So, let’s now discover the new 2017 collection.
The 5078G and 5178G



The 5320G Perpetual Calendar
It is the new Perpetual Calendar reference from the brand, next to the 5327 with a totally different dial, case and movement. The dial is inspired by the 1526 reference.
MSRP (CHF): 73 000
The 5168G Aquanaut
In the context of its 20th anniversary, the Aquanaut is presented this year with a blue dial matching the blue strap, with a bigger white gold 42mm case. As explained when I made the review of the 2016 rose gold version of the 5164 (www.watchprosite.com), I think that gold has totally its place in the Aquanaut family. I must say this colour and material combination looks very promising.









The Ladies Collection
The 4899/900G

The 4947G

The 5062R

The 5072R

The Nautilus 7118/1A
Two new dial colors for this reference.


The ladies’ 7130G World Time
This 36mm diamond-set bezel and pin buckle reference, already available in rose gold (silver dial) and white gold (silver and chocolate dial), is now unveiled in a beautiful light blue version.

The 7140G
As last year, I will present the main novelties with further details and my first thoughts in separate dedicated threads in the following months.
You'll find a few pictures Magnus could take at Basel, here: www.watchprosite.com and here www.watchprosite.com
And more on the collection on Patek Philippe's website, here: http://www.patek.com/en/collection/new-models-2017
Please feel free to share you first thoughts and your favorite!
Best, Mark
And here is the official video (if it doesn't work, just click on the message on the movie to be redirected to the video on Youtube):
The Patek Philippe Aquanaut Reference 5650G, known as the Advanced Research Aquanaut Travel Time, represents a technical exploration within the Aquanaut collection. This particular reference showcases Patek Philippe's ongoing commitment to material science and horological innovation, integrating novel advancements into a familiar and popular design. It stands apart from standard Aquanaut models due to its specific technical enhancements rather than purely aesthetic variations, positioning it as a significant piece for those interested in the brand's research and development efforts.
This timepiece features a white gold case, housing a self-winding movement. A notable characteristic is the use of a compliant mechanism for the second time zone correction, replacing traditional pivots and springs with flexible blades. The watch is fitted with a sapphire crystal on the front and an exhibition case back, allowing a view of the movement. Its design maintains the robust yet refined character associated with the Aquanaut line, while subtly incorporating the advanced research elements.
For collectors, the 5650G is particularly relevant due to its limited production and the incorporation of experimental technologies. It appeals to those who value mechanical innovation and the forward-thinking aspects of watchmaking. As an Advanced Research model, it offers a glimpse into potential future directions for Patek Philippe's movement architecture and material applications, making it a distinct and sought-after piece within the broader Patek Philippe catalog.
the new 5320G and the 5372! The 5170P could have been a close contender as the new 5070P if they would have left out the diamond markers Overall, I like the subtle evolution of the line-up. CC
but all depends how it is done, where we'll see them etc... We'll need another 5 or 10 years to find out. In the mean time, there are references I would have prefered without them too. Best, Mark
Nothing in this catalogue come close to both of the 5370P and the 5131R. Best, Ahmed
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