Ornatus-Mundi provides a first look at Patek Philippe's 2017 novelties from BaselWorld, offering candid live shots and initial impressions. His post highlights Patek's evolving design language, incorporating subtle yet bolder elements like new colors and dial textures. This early perspective captures the excitement and immediate reactions to significant new references.
I have to say, as a Patek non-expert, that I like what I am seeing. Patek adopts increasingly a subtle shot on bolder elements (colours, details...) which I like (with the caveat I gave before). So here we go:
First one is the
5170P with blue dial and the baguette indices... lightning is not optimal I guess, but this one is
very promising!

The
5960G makes all efforts to hide its deep dial structure in the press images - superb from what little these images might tell...

Also the
5320G Perpetual Calendar I guess is another victim of the lightning - not much to see from the new case shape. The applied arabic indices I guess must be well playing with the opaque dial face.

I still don't have an opinion on the
5940R - a solid entry for sure!

Wonderful, simply: the
6006G: the dial finishes is something I'd really love to see!

I already liked the chocolade brown
7130G World Time - with the new blue version Patek chose a very feminine blue!
7140G:

Simpler, but no less attractive:
4947G

Two new dial colpours for the automatic
Nautilus 7118/1A

And finally the
5072R

That's it quick & dirty!
Thanks for looking,
Magnus
About the Patek Philippe Ref. 4947
The Patek Philippe Reference 4947 is an Annual Calendar model introduced in 2022, notable for its steel construction and bracelet. This reference integrates the practical Annual Calendar complication within a case size that appeals to a broad range of collectors, distinguishing it from other Patek Philippe Annual Calendar offerings often found in precious metals. Its design emphasizes daily wearability while retaining the brand's technical horological standards.
This timepiece features a 38mm steel case, paired with a matching steel bracelet. It is powered by the self-winding Caliber 324 S QA LU, which provides the Annual Calendar function displaying day, date, and month, along with moon phases. The movement is visible through a sapphire crystal case back. The front crystal is also sapphire. The power reserve for this movement is between 35 and 45 hours.
The 4947 appeals to collectors seeking a Patek Philippe Annual Calendar with a more contemporary and robust material choice. The blue Shantung textured dial provides a distinctive aesthetic. The steel bracelet further enhances its appeal as a versatile and durable option within the brand's complicated watch lineup, offering an alternative to leather strap configurations.
Specifications
- Caliber
- 324 S QA LU
- Case
- Steel
- Diameter
- 38 mm
- Dial
- Blue
- Water Resist.
- 30 m
- Crystal
- Sapphire
About the Patek Philippe Aquanaut Ref. 5072
The Patek Philippe Aquanaut Reference 5072, introduced in 2017, represents a distinctive interpretation within the Aquanaut collection, known for its sport-chic aesthetic. This particular reference integrates precious materials and gem-setting, elevating the Aquanaut's casual profile to a more luxurious expression. It caters to collectors seeking a blend of Patek Philippe's robust design language with an added element of haute joaillerie, distinguishing it from the more understated models in the series. It maintains the collection's characteristic rounded octagonal case and integrated strap design.
This reference features a white gold case, measuring 35.6 mm in diameter, which is adorned with diamonds on the bezel. The watch is powered by a self-winding mechanical movement, the Caliber 324 S C, offering a power reserve of approximately 35-45 hours. A sapphire crystal protects the dial, ensuring clarity and scratch resistance. The case design provides water resistance suitable for daily wear, consistent with the Aquanaut's intended use as a versatile luxury timepiece.
The Aquanaut 5072 appeals to collectors who appreciate Patek Philippe's technical prowess combined with decorative artistry. Its introduction in 2017 expanded the Aquanaut's appeal to a segment desiring more ornate options without departing from the core design principles of the model line. The integration of gem-setting positions it as a more opulent choice within the Aquanaut family, offering a refined yet contemporary option for a discerning clientele.
Specifications
- Caliber
- 324 S C
- Case
- White gold
- Diameter
- 35.6 mm
- Dial
- Mother-of-pearl
- Water Resist.
- 120 m
- Crystal
- Sapphire
About the Patek Philippe Ref. 5130
The Patek Philippe Complications reference 5130, introduced in 2006, is a World Time watch that succeeded the popular reference 5110. This model maintained the distinctive World Time complication, allowing for simultaneous display of time in 24 different time zones. Its design evolved with a slightly larger case and updated dial aesthetics, distinguishing it from its predecessor while retaining the core functionality that defines Patek Philippe's travel timepieces. It was produced until 2017.
The watch features an 18k rose gold case measuring 39.5mm in diameter and 9.8mm in thickness, housing the self-winding Caliber 240 HU movement. This ultra-thin movement, visible through a sapphire crystal case back, provides a power reserve of 48 hours. The dial is silver or opaline with a guilloché center, protected by a sapphire crystal. Water resistance is rated at 30 meters.
Reference 5130 appeals to collectors seeking a sophisticated travel complication from Patek Philippe. Its larger case size compared to the 5110 offered a more contemporary presence on the wrist, while its classic World Time mechanism remained a hallmark of the brand's technical prowess. The model was available in various precious metals, with the rose gold variant offering a warm aesthetic.
Specifications
- Caliber
- Cal.240 HU
- Case
- 18k rose gold
- Diameter
- 39.5mm
- Dial
- Silver / opaline guilloché
- Water Resist.
- 30m
- Crystal
- Sapphire
About the Patek Philippe Chronograph Ref. 5170
The Chronograph reference 5170, introduced in 2010, marked a significant development for Patek Philippe as it was the first serially produced chronograph to feature a fully in-house manufactured movement. This reference succeeded the reference 5070, transitioning from a Lemania-based caliber to a proprietary design, underscoring the brand's commitment to integrated manufacturing for its complications. It represents a modern interpretation of a classic chronograph layout within the Patek Philippe catalog.
The reference 5170 features a case measuring 39.4 mm in diameter and 10.9 mm in thickness, available in 18k white, rose, or yellow gold. It is equipped with the manual-winding caliber CH 29-535 PS, which offers a power reserve of 65 hours. The watch is fitted with a sapphire crystal and is water-resistant to 30 meters. The movement is visible through a sapphire case back, showcasing its intricate finishing.
This reference appeals to collectors seeking a contemporary Patek Philippe chronograph with an in-house movement. Early variants, such as the yellow gold reference 5170J-001, featured a pulsometer scale, which was later replaced by a minute track on subsequent iterations. The various metal options and dial configurations provide distinct aesthetic choices for collectors, reflecting different periods of its production run.
Specifications
- Caliber
- CH 29-535 PS
- Case
- 18k White Gold, Rose Gold, or Yellow Gold
- Diameter
- 39.4 mm
- Dial
- Silver, Black, or Opaline
- Water Resist.
- 30m
- Crystal
- Sapphire
About the Patek Philippe Ref. 5320
The Patek Philippe Reference 5320G is a perpetual calendar wristwatch distinguished by its vintage-inspired design elements, particularly the stepped lugs and the syringe-style hands. It represents a contemporary interpretation of classic Patek Philippe perpetual calendars, integrating historical aesthetic cues with modern watchmaking standards. This reference is notable for its clean dial layout and the harmonious integration of its various indications, appealing to collectors who appreciate traditional complications presented with a refined, understated elegance.
The watch features a white gold case, measuring 40mm in diameter and 11.13mm in thickness. It houses the self-winding caliber 324 S Q, visible through a sapphire crystal case back. The movement provides a power reserve of approximately 35-45 hours. The front crystal is made of sapphire, ensuring durability and clarity for the dial, which displays the perpetual calendar functions with precision and legibility.
This reference appeals to collectors seeking a sophisticated perpetual calendar with a distinct vintage character, yet executed with modern reliability. Its white gold construction offers a subtle alternative to more common yellow or rose gold perpetual calendars. The 5320G fits within Patek Philippe's grand complications lineup, offering a blend of technical mastery and design heritage that resonates with enthusiasts of classic horology.
Specifications
- Caliber
- 324 S Q
- Case
- White gold
- Diameter
- 40mm
- Dial
- Silvery opaline
- Water Resist.
- 30m
- Crystal
- Sapphire