Mark in Paris presents a compelling visual essay on the often-overlooked 'profiles' of Patek Philippe's 2017 collection, emphasizing the brand's mastery of subtle case design. This article underscores how Patek Philippe's dedication to intricate case crafting contributes significantly to the watches' overall appeal and perceived proportions. Mark's detailed compilation invites readers to appreciate the nuanced artistry that defines Patek Philippe's horological creations.
Hi everyone,
As I said before, Patek Philippe watches are often about details, many decoration elements that add a lot to a watchâs
appeal. These are usually the ones we donât look at directly or donât even
notice but that make a watch more attractive.
Some cases in watchmaking are designed to look spectacular or trendy but this
is not what Patek is about. It impresses by its work's subtlety and the mastery
of adding refined details, even when the brand chooses surprisingly to add
diamond-set markers weâve seen lately, as like yellow gold is again more
appreciated today.
The case's shape or the dials are the most obvious but there is also a part we
don't pay as much attention to: the
profile. This part of the watch says a lot on this matter and the effort
Patek put in a watch design and crafting.
I compiled here below the profile photos of all the watches presented during
Baselworld 2017 (new versions of existing references or brand new ones). As I already wrote here, these photos underline
the effort Patek puts in case crafting and design, something that only a few
traditional brands do today.
I hope youâll enjoy them 
Best, Mark
PS: you can see also Baselworld 2016's profiles thread here: www.watchprosite.com
MEN WATCHES
5078G and 5178G Minute Repeater (resp. 38 and 40mm cases): how to use rounded elements and nice curves, the bezel (and how it works with the glass curved the other way), the caseband and even the caseback.
5131P World Time with enamel dial: something we already know, very classical, elegant and timeless.
5168G Aquanaut: some straights line very well combined. Definitely a more modern case interpretation. Even the lugs are slightly curved in order to follow the straps' shape, from the bezel to the end.
5170P Chronograph: compared to the references presented above, the case looks independent from the lugs, as if it was articulate, yet they work beautifully.
5180R Skeletonized: Patek's thinness in a delicate and smooth interpretation, right till the bracelet links that look like water drops.
5316P Minute Repeater, Perpetual Calendar and Tourbillon (40mm case): a grand complication marvel that is, as usual for the brand, included in a case that doesn't look massive.
5320G Perpetual Calendar: the new glass profile takes its place in the stepped construction with the bezel, caseband and caseback. The proportions and shapes of each level are imho pure perfection. It is also visible in the lugs, all is coherent and very 1920's. Maybe my favorite profile from this year.
5372G Split-Second and Perpetual Calendar (38.3mm case): a unique design discovered with the 5370P 2 years ago. The thicker look compared to some references above is certainly due to the 38.3mm only case. I love those small and thick cases (like the 5930G).
5396R Annual Calendar: a classic for the brand, very discreet and yet more contemporary than rounder 5130/5140's cases.
5650G Aquanaut Dual Time "Advanced Research" 20th anniversary:
5940R Perpetual Calendar: it is not the best view on the tonneau-shaped reference, however it is still a very subtle and elegant design. That's what the 5940 is all about.
5960G Chronograph and Annual Calendar: my beloved 5960 reference's case (I'm totally biased here :p ). The addition of the new pushers is a great move since I saw it in the metal.
5960/1A Chronograph and Annual Calendar: ah, my beloved 5960 (oops I just said that already)
6006G Calatrava: how to modernize a lightly rounder Calatrava case in order to have something a little more contemporary without going too far.
LADIES WATCHES7118/1A Nautilus: a classic Nautilus profile, showing each time a very appealing work imho
4947G Annual Calendar: nice stepped work again though very different from the ones we saw in the past. Patek brings each time diversity from predecessors.
7140G Perpetual Calendar:
4899/900G: gem-stting on such a rounder profile looks beautiful I think. For a woman I think it can make a nice daylight wearer as well with jeans.
7130G World Time: here I see the profile as a definitely dressier section, with a wonderful design thanks to the way the diamonds are placed.
5062-450R Aquanaut:
5072R Aquanaut:
About the Patek Philippe Minute Repeater Ref. 5078
The Patek Philippe reference 5078 represents the manufacture's 38mm minute repeater offering within their complications collection. Part of the 38mm Minute Repeater series, this reference was produced from 2008 to 2019, establishing its position as a contemporary grand complication timepiece.
The 5078 features a 38mm case available in three precious metal options: 18k white gold, 18k rose gold, or platinum. The polished bezel and sapphire crystal complement the available dial color variants. The manual-winding caliber 240 Q provides 48 hours of power reserve, housed within a case rated to 30 meters water resistance. A leather strap with fold-over clasp completes the construction.
This reference appeals to collectors seeking a minute repeater complication in a moderately sized case. The multiple metal options and dial variants provide choice within the reference, while the 11-year production run offers reasonable availability in the secondary market. The 5078 positions itself as an accessible entry point into Patek Philippe's chiming complications category.
Specifications
- Caliber
- 240 Q
- Case
- 18k White Gold, 18k Rose Gold, or Platinum
- Diameter
- 38 mm
- Dial
- Multiple variants available
- Water Resist.
- 30m
- Crystal
- Sapphire
About the Patek Philippe Ref. 5130
The Patek Philippe Complications reference 5130, introduced in 2006, is a World Time watch that succeeded the popular reference 5110. This model maintained the distinctive World Time complication, allowing for simultaneous display of time in 24 different time zones. Its design evolved with a slightly larger case and updated dial aesthetics, distinguishing it from its predecessor while retaining the core functionality that defines Patek Philippe's travel timepieces. It was produced until 2017.
The watch features an 18k rose gold case measuring 39.5mm in diameter and 9.8mm in thickness, housing the self-winding Caliber 240 HU movement. This ultra-thin movement, visible through a sapphire crystal case back, provides a power reserve of 48 hours. The dial is silver or opaline with a guilloché center, protected by a sapphire crystal. Water resistance is rated at 30 meters.
Reference 5130 appeals to collectors seeking a sophisticated travel complication from Patek Philippe. Its larger case size compared to the 5110 offered a more contemporary presence on the wrist, while its classic World Time mechanism remained a hallmark of the brand's technical prowess. The model was available in various precious metals, with the rose gold variant offering a warm aesthetic.
Specifications
- Caliber
- Cal.240 HU
- Case
- 18k rose gold
- Diameter
- 39.5mm
- Dial
- Silver / opaline guilloché
- Water Resist.
- 30m
- Crystal
- Sapphire
About the Patek Philippe Ref. 5131
The Patek Philippe Complications reference 5131 is a World Time model, distinguished by its cloisonné enamel dial depicting a map of the world. This reference is part of a series that showcases Patek Philippe's expertise in both horological complications and traditional decorative arts, offering a functional travel watch with significant aesthetic appeal. It represents a continuation of the brand's long-standing tradition of producing World Time watches, updated with contemporary design elements and a self-winding movement. The 5131 is recognized for its intricate dial work, which varies depending on the specific metal and region depicted.
The watch features a 39.5mm case, available in various precious metals, housing the self-winding Caliber 240 HU. This movement provides a power reserve of 48 hours and drives the World Time complication, allowing the wearer to simultaneously view the time in 24 different time zones. The case is fitted with a sapphire crystal, ensuring durability and clear visibility of the detailed dial. Water resistance is rated at 30 meters, suitable for everyday wear. The fixed bezel frames the intricate dial, contributing to the watch's refined profile.
As a World Time model with a cloisonné dial, the 5131 appeals to collectors who appreciate both technical sophistication and artisanal craftsmanship. Its limited production and the unique hand-finished nature of each dial contribute to its desirability within the secondary market. The reference fits into Patek Philippe's Complications collection as a high-end travel watch, offering a distinctive alternative to more traditional time-only or chronograph models. Variants typically involve different precious metal cases and corresponding enamel map depictions.
Specifications
- Caliber
- Cal.240 HU
- Case
- yellow gold
- Diameter
- 39.5mm
- Dial
- blue
- Water Resist.
- 30m
- Crystal
- Sapphire
About the Patek Philippe Ref. 5960
The Patek Philippe Complications reference 5960A, introduced in stainless steel, represents a significant offering within the brand's annual calendar chronograph series. This particular reference is notable for being the first annual calendar chronograph from Patek Philippe to be offered in a non-precious metal, making it a distinctive piece in the Complications collection. It combines practical complications with a robust case material, appealing to collectors seeking a blend of utility and horological complexity.
This reference features a 40.5mm stainless steel case, housing the self-winding Caliber CH 28-520 QA 24H. The movement provides a power reserve of approximately 55 hours and is visible through a sapphire crystal case back. The dial is presented in white, protected by a sapphire crystal, and the watch is water-resistant to 30 meters. The integrated stainless steel bracelet complements the case material, providing a cohesive aesthetic.
The 5960A in stainless steel holds a specific position for collectors due to its material choice and the integrated bracelet, differentiating it from its precious metal counterparts. Its combination of an annual calendar and chronograph functions, along with the 24-hour indication, makes it a highly functional and mechanically interesting timepiece. The special hand set and case back decoration mentioned for this specific 5960A further emphasize its unique attributes within the production run.
Specifications
- Caliber
- Cal.CH 28-520 QA 24H
- Case
- stainless steel
- Diameter
- 40.5mm
- Dial
- white
- Water Resist.
- 30m
- Crystal
- Sapphire
About the Patek Philippe Grand Complications Ref. 7140
The Patek Philippe Grand Complications Reference 7140 is a significant offering within the brand's highly complicated ladies' watches, specifically a minute repeater. It represents Patek Philippe's commitment to integrating high horology with refined aesthetics tailored for a discerning female clientele. This reference stands as a testament to the brand's capability in miniaturizing complex mechanisms without compromising on performance or finishing, positioning it as a jewel in the Grand Complications collection.
The watch features a round case crafted from 18K rose gold, measuring 33.3 mm in diameter. It houses a self-winding mechanical movement, Caliber R 27 Q, which provides a power reserve of approximately 38 to 48 hours. The dial is protected by a sapphire crystal, and the watch is designed with a sapphire-crystal case back, allowing a view of the intricate movement. The bezel is set with diamonds, enhancing its luxurious appeal.
This reference appeals to collectors seeking a rare combination of haute horlogerie and haute joaillerie. Its minute repeater complication, coupled with the perpetual calendar, makes it a highly desirable piece for those who appreciate technical mastery in a compact and elegant form. The 7140 series is notable for its various dial and gem-setting configurations, offering subtle variations that cater to individual preferences within a very exclusive segment.
Specifications
- Caliber
- R 27 Q
- Case
- Rose gold
- Diameter
- 33.3 mm
- Dial
- Silvery opaline
- Water Resist.
- 30 m
- Crystal
- Sapphire
