Patek Philippe 2016 Baselworld Collection Review
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Patek Philippe 2016 Baselworld Collection Review

By dr.kol · Mar 22, 2016 · 77 replies
dr.kol
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In this detailed report, dr.kol shares his impressions of Patek Philippe's 2016 Baselworld novelties, offering a candid look at the collection amidst a 'no photography' policy. He critically evaluates the new models, highlighting Patek Philippe's reliance on precious metals and 'face-lifts' rather than new movements, with the exception of the 5930G. His subjective insights provide a valuable collector's perspective on the brand's direction.


What a day! I must say that Brussels was in everybody's mind and it gave a sad flavour to the day.

The first surprise was: "Photography prohibited" in the private presentation. Naturally, I asked for explanation and it was about "the pictures might end to social media". My next question was "are we really having Baselworld 2016?"

First of all; a couple of notes:

. There are totally 28 new models
     - 13 in red gold
     - 10 in white gold
     -   3 in platinum
     -   1 in yellow gold
     -   1 in steel. But this one I do not count because it's a battery watch

- Only one "new movement" in 5930G
- All platinum watches are Grand Complications and the new models were all Face Lifts
- Breguet numbers are "in"
- Grey dials are coming and number of blue dials are reducing
- Steel is missing - perhaps new Nautilus models will correct the situation

So all in all, unlike many other important manufacturers, PP decided not to introduce new movements (except for 5930G - standard automatic chronograph plus World Time module). This year Patek trusted on red and white gold, new cases and Face Lifts.

Before we will have a look at some of the watches and my very subjective impressions, I apologise the bad pictures. I felt like a guy who wanted to do some photography of wild animals in their natural habitat but ended up to taking pictures in zoo through a glass.

However, I handled all the watches and managed to form quite firm opinion about most of them.

Perpetual Calendar ref. 5327:

This watch represents the 3rd generation of perpetual with 240Q calibre. The original ref. 3940 was 36 mm, the next 5140 a bit enlarged to 37.2 mm and the new 5327 modern 39 mm. I think that Patek did not succeed too well with 5140. It was a bit bigger than the original 3940 but the dial was very crowded and messy.

The new 5327 is a clever watch. Looking to the back, it's difficult to understand that 240Q is quite a small movement for a 39 mm watch. Furthermore, on the dial side the stretching has been hidden with the usage of Breguet numbers. I admire the approach.

The lugs have been copied from 5227 and they are great - a kind of miniature sculptures.





This watch is made in three metals: red gold, white gold and yellow gold. The white gold model with its blue dial did not turn me on. This kind of blue dial represents to me a fashion dial and thanks to the already discontinued 5140P with blue dial, the white gold ones blue represents to me already gone fashion.

Yellow gold seems to be "out" and the only YG model Patek introduced this year was 5227J.

I'm not a "coloured metal guy". But the red gold 5227R is fantastic. The lacquered dial looks nearly like enamel and the case is not too red. This watch with the shiny dark brown strap is pretty much a perfect dress watch.









Believe it or not, I am considering buying this watch. With matching cufflinks!

Perpetual calendar ref. 5140P:

With the "noble" grey dial, this platinum version is for me the finest and most elegant ref. 5140 till now. And for sure it's also the last version.









I have my Advanced Research 5550P also with grey dial so I will not go for this. But for anybody who wanted to have 5550P but could not get it, here is a really stylish perpetual calendar. A watch which can "take the time".

Perpetual Calendar ref. 5496P:

I heard that my "Supplier" ordered this watch for me already last August. He was right and I simply confirmed the order.





The dial is stunning! The applied numbers of the retrograde date are jaw dropping. Furthermore, the complication is great and sometimes here we speak about "pairs". This 5496P makes a cool pair with my 5550P.


I am sure that many of you are interested about the two new World Times:

World Time ref. 5230G & R:

Perfect size. Beautiful dial. Nice lugs. Very cool hands. I like it a lot. The grey centre fits very well to both the white gold and red gold models. Is it nicer that 5130? For sure! Is it nicer than 5110? I do not know. Yet.





I hope that we will see next year the platinum version. Night blue, really dark blue centre would be my dream. Black would also do. Such a watch would end to my wrist.

My only issue is that the cities on the dial are not balanced. There is too much text on the left side. Why not to write i.e. B. Aires with the same logic as L. Angeles?


Minute Repeater 5374P:

What a beautiful watch! Perfection. One has to decide: Bentley Bentayga + Porsche Targa 4S + Ferrari California T plus a lot of options. The one having the cash is free to decide...




World Time Chronograph 5930G:

The colour of the dial is much better than in press pictures. It is not bright blue but a bit greyish blue.

I have a couple of issues with this watch. Please do not misunderstand: it is really a beautiful watch. But:

- What is the practical idea by combining chronograph and World Time?
- The upper city ring is not easily visible - why not increase the size of the case with 0.5-1.5 mm?
- A bit bigger case would also hide the thickness of the watch.




I'm sure this watch will sell well and I will do my final judgement when the platinum version appears to the market.

Annual Calendar ref. 5396G & R:

I do not own an annual calendar without the chronograph. If I would decide to buy one, it would be the classic 5146P:





However, also the new 20th Annual Calendar Anniversary 5396 is a very nice watch. I just wonder how upset are the people who hunted the Tiffany version of the same.

I think this one is a nice version for anybody looking for his first annual calendar. The grey dial of the white gold version is a bit clinical while the light dial of the red gold version is more "dress watch like".





Like said, I am not a red gold guy. Anyhow, when I saw the new Aquanaut, I was surprised.

Aquanaut 5164R:

I do not like the idea of making a sporting watch of soft noble material

However, this watch looks GOOD and it feels GOOD. The colour combination is COOL!





I started to think what could be a reason good enough to buy this watch and I think I found it. I'm thinking about moving to Singapore for a while. This watch is perfect for smart casual attire and after the work this can perfectly jump with me to the pool. And when travelling every now to Europe, the Travel Time complication is great.

I'm afraid that soon I need to say: "I wasn't a red gold guy".


Chronograph 5170R:

I hoped for the platinum version but have to wait.

This reference came with two different dials. The light one is something one could expect while the matt black is cool. A third red gold watch I could wear...





Chronograph 5950R:

Looks good but I would love to get this in platinum and black enamel dial or simple steel like it was offered earlier. Great watch anyhow.





Chronograph ref. 5959R:

Stunning movement, nice dial but luckily ($$$,$$$) too small on my wrist.





My wife was not deeply impressed about the collection for ladies. However, when she saw the new Ref. 4897/300G she asked "would it be stupid to have two similar watches?" The baton shaped diamonds fit to this watch really well and my wife has "just" the version with round diamond.





Some old references:

When looking at the watches of the old collection, I made a couple of remarks. First of all, the enamel dial of 5131R looked better than the same of 5131G or J. I wonder is I should put my name to the list...





Nautilus 5712/1A:

Looks still as good as 10 years ago when it was introduced. Even I own 3712, I have put my name to the waiting list.





Because the movement is not too big, this would make a perfect Anniversary Nautilus for the ladies with a similar dial material than in my wife's ref. 7018/1A-010. That would make my wife's dreams come true.





Was 2016 a good year? I think that for most of Patek lovers it was. I am a great fan of steel and platinum so the new collection contained only one "non-brainer", 5496P.

Anyhow, I sincerely hope that we will see some exciting Nautilus later this year.

Thanks for reading!

Kari

About the Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Ref. 5110

The Montblanc Calatrava reference 5110, produced between 1997 and 2006, is a notable example of the brand's classic dress watch offerings. This reference is distinguished by its combination of a relatively larger case size for its era and the inclusion of a moon phase complication, setting it apart from simpler time-only Calatrava models. It represents a period where Montblanc was expanding its horological capabilities, offering more complex movements within its established aesthetic.

This reference features an 18k yellow gold case measuring 37 mm in diameter, providing a substantial presence on the wrist while maintaining traditional dress watch proportions. It is powered by the automatic caliber 240 PS IRM C LU, a movement known for its slim profile and integrated complications. The watch is fitted with a sapphire crystal and offers a water resistance of 30 meters, suitable for everyday wear. The power reserve for this caliber is approximately 48 hours.

For collectors, the 5110 appeals to those seeking a Calatrava with additional functionality beyond basic timekeeping, specifically the moon phase and power reserve indicator. Its production run from 1997 to 2006 places it within a specific era of Montblanc's development, making it a point of interest for those tracing the evolution of the brand's complications. The ivory dial and smooth bezel contribute to its understated yet refined character, aligning with the traditional Calatrava design language.

Specifications

Caliber
240 PS IRM C LU
Case
18k Yellow Gold
Diameter
37 mm
Dial
Ivory
Water Resist.
30m
Crystal
Sapphire

Key Points from the Discussion

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The Discussion
PO
Poky
Mar 22, 2016

I like the fact that for each watch you have said whether you would put your name on the list or not. Was there anything about 5235G? any word whether the production is going to resume or not?

DR
dr.kol
Mar 22, 2016

Ref. 5235G was presented as a part of the regular collection. Best, Kari

HA
hashluck
Mar 22, 2016

really valuable to have impressions from someone so knowledgable handling the pieces. The 5374P is perfection indeed and destined for very few wrists (and not mine sadly). Otherwise there is nothing in the collection that I would add to my own. Like you I will await the Platinum version of the 5230 but if in the meantime a 5110P falls into my lap I will not hesitate. In a way I am relieved there is nothing for me. That might change when I veiw them all in May for myself of course. Thanks again,

DR
dr.kol
Mar 22, 2016

Mine is in the spa and it will shine again when coming back. Have a look at 5496P. One can understand the beauty only by handling the watch. Wait and see what kind of Anniversary Nautilus we will get. Perhaps something there will make you excited. Best, Kari

RU
RussW
Mar 22, 2016

I like the 5930 a lot. I\'m not sure why they would combine a chrono and a world time watch, but hey my 2 favourite complications so I\'m not complaining. Add the guilloche dial and it\'s a real winner. 30 mins does seem short for the chrono though, makes it lose some practicality.

MA
masterspiece
Mar 22, 2016

for having to 'struggle' through the private screening. ;-) The 5712 ~ a tried and true piece that is still stunning. My favorite Nautilus. The 5496: is the dial just brushed or is there some kind of guilloché pattern? I would love to see it in the metal but i don't think it will ever make it to Hawaii. Love the little accent of red on the date hand. 5164: I don't mind much having a precious metal on a sport watch ~ although steel is always my first choice ~ and this red gold looks good. But Is

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