Patek Philippe Deployant Buckles: Chevron vs. Calatrava

doobooloo · 2013-11-09T16:53:50Z

Compare Patek Philippe chevron vs. Calatrava deployant buckles for the 5960P. Discover key differences in fit, comfort, and strap compatibility.

doobooloo

WPS member · Patek Philippe forum

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Doobooloo's detailed comparison of Patek Philippe's chevron and Calatrava deployant buckles offers valuable insights beyond aesthetics. This article is essential for Patek Philippe owners, revealing a crucial functional difference in effective strap length that can significantly impact wrist fit and comfort, especially for the Patek Philippe Ref. 5960P.

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Hello all,

There have been a few discussions pertaining to this topic, but none addressed this issue so wanted to share what I found with you.

When I purchased my 5960P I could not decide between the two styles of deployants - chevron vs calatrava - and my indecision was purely from a cosmetic angle. So I ended up getting both styles to see and decide for myself. To my surprise, I found a MUCH more important difference than just aesthetics - and this is the effective "length" of the buckle. To illustrate...

Notice that the pin of the chevron style deployant sits farther out than that of the calatrava buckle! This works to about 1/2 distance between the pin holes in the strap. So, what I found is that experimenting between the two buckles, I can fine-tune the "sweet spot" of strap length for my watch.

This is particularly useful since not all Patek straps are created equal... Take a look:

Both are genuine Patek straps, but they're cut differently! Turns out, I can get the perfect fit with the calatrava buckle on the brown strap, and the chevron buckle on the grey strap. As a side note, the grey strap on the grey 5960P really looks nice, makes me think Patek should have made that the default strap on the grey dial 5960P's.

All that said... I slightly prefer the chevron buckle because it sits flatter against the leather, partly due to the curvature of the buckle as seen in the photos above. Otherwise, the length difference is really the most important distinguisher... and having found this out, now I am forced to keep both buckles!

About the Patek Philippe Ref. 5960

The Patek Philippe Complications reference 5960A, introduced in stainless steel, represents a significant offering within the brand's annual calendar chronograph series. This particular reference is notable for being the first annual calendar chronograph from Patek Philippe to be offered in a non-precious metal, making it a distinctive piece in the Complications collection. It combines practical complications with a robust case material, appealing to collectors seeking a blend of utility and horological complexity.

This reference features a 40.5mm stainless steel case, housing the self-winding Caliber CH 28-520 QA 24H. The movement provides a power reserve of approximately 55 hours and is visible through a sapphire crystal case back. The dial is presented in white, protected by a sapphire crystal, and the watch is water-resistant to 30 meters. The integrated stainless steel bracelet complements the case material, providing a cohesive aesthetic.

The 5960A in stainless steel holds a specific position for collectors due to its material choice and the integrated bracelet, differentiating it from its precious metal counterparts. Its combination of an annual calendar and chronograph functions, along with the 24-hour indication, makes it a highly functional and mechanically interesting timepiece. The special hand set and case back decoration mentioned for this specific 5960A further emphasize its unique attributes within the production run.

Specifications

Caliber: Cal.CH 28-520 QA 24H

Case: stainless steel

Diameter: 40.5mm

Dial: white

Water Resist.: 30m

Crystal: Sapphire

Key Points from the Discussion

The chevron deployant's pin sits farther out than the Calatrava buckle's, effectively shortening the strap by about half the distance between pin holes, allowing for fine-tuning of strap length for a perfect fit.
Patek Philippe straps, even genuine ones, can be cut differently, making the ability to switch between deployant styles useful for achieving optimal fit.
The chevron buckle is preferred by some for its flatter profile against the leather, partly due to its curvature.
Patek Philippe has discontinued the chevron style deployant, reportedly due to instances of straps slipping out, and now replaces them with Calatrava buckles at no charge.
The Calatrava deployant has more points of contact with the strap, which may contribute to its perceived security, but some users have experienced issues with it collapsing centrally if pushed incorrectly.
Patek Philippe offers custom-made straps with specific measurements and stitching (e.g., Navy Blue with grey stitching) at the same cost as standard straps, ensuring a comfortable and unique fit.

The Discussion

Edz

Nov 9, 2013

Thanks for the info [nt]

keks

Nov 9, 2013

error

This message has been edited by keks on 2013-11-09 23:24:20

keks

Nov 9, 2013

Gray

Thanks for this post! I have been considering getting a gray strap for my 5960P (gray dial) but my AD did not seem to believe he could get a PP strap but instead offered to order one from Camille Fournet. I currently have a few other straps from Camille Fournet and they are well made but would naturally much prefer an original. Would you mind sharing the product ref# or color/name ref# for the gray strap you posted as I think it looks fantastic? I currently got a black (Fournet) crocodile strap

patrickh

Nov 10, 2013

Gray Blue PP strap

here is a combo by PP love it, Cheers, Patrickh

doobooloo

Nov 10, 2013

Wow!

I have the "plain" navy on navy strap... The grey stitching really adds a subtle but very special touch especially in combination with the grey dial! Really nice... thanks for sharing.

doobooloo

Nov 10, 2013

Regarding the grey strap...

Unfortunately I do not know the exact ref #, but I will ask my dealer that provided the straps to see if he can provide that information. Right now I have a navy strap on which also looks great, looks very similar to your black strap indoors or at night. I'll take some photos of both and share later today!