Patek Philippe Ref. 3417 Amagnetic Review
Vintage

Patek Philippe Ref. 3417 Amagnetic Review

By watch-guy.com · Jan 13, 2018 · 28 replies
watch-guy.com
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Watch-guy.com takes readers on a personal journey with the Patek Philippe Ref. 3417, a legendary antimagnetic timepiece. This review blends a captivating origin story, from a chance supermarket sighting to a successful acquisition, with a detailed exploration of the watch's unique features and historical significance. The author's passion for vintage Patek Philippe shines through, offering valuable insights into this rare reference.

Imagine the opening scene of a movie set . The location is the Hadron Collider in Switzerland. The actor is Benedict Cumberbatch playing the role of a scientist. He is wearing a crisp white lab coat. He walks into the lab and raises his arm and pulls back the sleeve of his coat.

He looks at his watch and this is what he sees




 








My first sighting of this fabled reference goes back many many years. I was still a neophyte collector and had never had my hands on a Patek . However even at that stage I was getting catalogues from Christies, Sothebys and Habsburg Feldman (as it was then , even before it became Antiquorum).  I had seen pics of these wonderful Pateks, Rolexes ,( mainly Princes and Bubblebacks- Paul New man was not even a salad dressing yet and who had even heard of Daytona.)
I was standing in line in a supermarket and even then I looked at everyone’s wrist. I had never seen anything exciting until…….  I spied this simple stainless steel watch on the wrist of someone standing in line in front of me.  I looked closer and saw three lines of writing – hmm not that common. He lifted his wrist and I  could get a better view of the watch . It was indeed the fabled ref 3417 Patek. Selling for about $7 000 at that stage. I almost thought of making him an offer but I just could not pluck up the courage and he disappeared into the distance. Both him and the watch never to be seen again.  
I never saw one again for a long while but Roni  M( a fellow collector )had one and it spurred my interest. Prices had rocketed since the $7 000 but I thought with a few trade ins and some extra cash it may be possible.

Then I planned a trip to NYC and got in contact with a dealer ( Andrew Shear )  He had one for sale. He had always wanted one of my Princes – a rose gold ref 2771 with a beautiful GF bracelet. We agreed on a trade of some pieces  and some significant green and the deal was done in a NYC deli.  I had it.







The 3417 is a manual wind watch. Again not any movement but the moderately rare ref 27 AM 400.  I have two models and will inter change between pics of both. The only difference is the dial.  One has an original Gay Frere bracelet and the other has a beads of rice strap ( non GF)

 


Those in the know understand that this movement is the antimagnetic movement. Similar to the Milgauss from Rolex, the Ingenieur from IWC , the Railmaster from Omega and the Geophysic from JLC.
Movements are not similar but all are protected from high magnetic fields by a faraday cage construction.
The Amagnetic is protected to about 1200 Gauss , similar to the Milgauss
Case – similar round case . 
The 3417 is  35mm in diameter – large by vintage standards

Thickness of the 3417 is 11mm thick to account for the Faraday cage



Lugs- the lugs are straight..  Interestingly they have a fine groove where the lug meets the case. A lovely touch.



 


Dial. There are three main variants. Two have simple stick indices and the number “ 12” is elongated in an art deco fashion. 60-70 % had “amagnetic “ on the dial and the rest did not. I have shown both models. 
The third dial is extremely rare with ?radium indices and ? radium numbers 3, 9 , 12. One was recently posted on Instagram by Andrew Shear.
 
I just love this pic and have included it. 
 
 
A comparison of the two common dials


  Crown-The 3417 has a lovely stainless steel crown with the calatrava cross embossed onto it.
 
Finally just some info about the movements

Early movements up to number729999 were the 12-400 movement but most were the later 27-AM 400 from movement numbers 730000 – 735239  and from 739700 to 739799 ( 5340 pieces)

All ref 3417 were made in steel ( about 500-600 ever made) but the amagnetic movement( 27-AM 400) was used in other reference numbers including gold cases ref 3410  3418  3419  3420  3434  2509  2545 and 2570

Technical data of the 27-AM 400 movement

1. 26.75 mm diameter
2. 4mm thick
3. 19800 bph
4. 18 jewels
5. breguet spiral balance 
6. gyromax balance wheel
I do not have any pics of my movements but have included a generic one from the web

 

Please note that all technical information is courtesy of Marco Stanga . His treatise on the amagnetic is detailed and is a must for anyone interested in this reference. My thanks go to him for his help and information as well as his patience.


































About the Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 3417

The Patek Philippe Calatrava reference 3417 is notable for its antimagnetic properties, a feature less common in dress watches of its era. It represents a specific technical advancement within the Calatrava line, designed to protect the movement from magnetic fields, which could impair timekeeping accuracy. This focus on functional resilience distinguishes it from other Calatrava models primarily known for their aesthetic simplicity. The reference was produced in limited quantities, contributing to its specialized appeal.

This reference typically features a 33 mm case, often in stainless steel, though examples in yellow gold are also known. It houses the manual-winding caliber 23-300 PM, a movement specifically engineered with antimagnetic components. The PM designation indicates "Protection Magnétique." The watch is fitted with a sapphire crystal and offers a water resistance of 25 meters. The power reserve for this caliber is approximately 44 hours.

The 3417 appeals to collectors interested in Patek Philippe's technical innovations and the brand's response to specific horological challenges. Its antimagnetic construction places it in a distinct category, offering a blend of classic Calatrava design with a practical, albeit subtle, complication. Variants exist with different dial configurations, including those with radium luminous material, further diversifying its collector interest.

Specifications

Caliber
23-300 PM
Case
Stainless steel
Diameter
33 mm
Dial
Silver
Water Resist.
25m
Crystal
Sapphire

Key Points from the Discussion

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The Discussion
RU
runie
Jan 13, 2018

Just a few weeks ago I had the opportunity to see a nearly as new example of this reference.... Really awesome and adorable!

AM
amanico
Jan 13, 2018

Anyway, as you mentioned it rightly, the 3417 is one of these legendary amagnetic watches you quoted. A must have. And yours is wonderful. Great review, my friend. Best, and thanks. Nicolas

WA
watch-guy.com
Jan 13, 2018

my reference is M Stangas book. He uses oersted rather than gauss but the conversion is 1:1 J

KC
kcinemod
Jan 13, 2018

I need one of those bracelets.

DR
dr.kol
Jan 14, 2018

I hope Patek will one day re-introduce the Antimagnetic Calatrava with a modern manual winding movement and SS case. That would be something. Best, Kari

BL
blomman Mr Blue
Jan 14, 2018

Interesting to learn there were a radium dial for a Antimagnetic watch!? We saw many paradoxes through time... Shield from magnetism but radioactive...! Best Blomman

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