Collection
Baron - Mr Red's article delves into the meticulous process of curating a Patek Philippe collection, specifically focusing on the acquisition of a vintage steel Calatrava. His journey to find the Reference 3483, a rare and understated piece, provides valuable insights into the challenges and rewards of collecting vintage Patek Philippe beyond the more commonly sought references. The author shares how this particular watch rivals his 5070P as a favorite, emphasizing its unique charm and significance.
Building a collection is hard. It takes thought and a great deal of patience. I have spent a lot of time thinking about my collection of vintage Rolex. More recently I have been spending time thinking about my Patek collection. I teased recently about which watches I needed to add in order to complement the 5070P, 5124G and Aquanaut that were already part. Of course, I also had a 5110G as part of that collection. This article takes a look at what I consider to be a final jigsaw in my collection, completing the group and adding something quite different - a vintage Calatrava. The existing four watches in my collection are all modern variants. It made total sense to me to look for something vintage as the concluding part. Further, i decided that i would look for something in steel. I have white gold in two of the existing watches and platinum in one. Adding a steel Calatrava seemed to make sense.
But which one? First of all, finding vintage steel Calatravas is not that simple. Credit here to Miranda who did a wonderful evaluation of various vintage steel pieces. All credit to him for these. The Reference 96 came with either subsidiary or centre seconds along with an array of differing dials. The 96, however, typically came on a 31mm case. The Reference 570 emerged with a 35-36mm case and was thus much more appropriate in my search given its size. Likewise the reference 2508 and 2509 also featured in the search. Finding gold versions of these watches was not especially hard, but finding steel was close to impossible. One watch that really caught my attention was the Reference 565 in steel. This was the model that provided the template for the 5565 commemoration model. I like the commemoration version, but would prefer to get the original. An original 565 is definitely one that can be found and was certainly on my list. Others that have featured high on my list were the 3417 Amagnetic. Please see the incredible review of the 3417 provided by mstanga on this forum. A steel Amagnetic would, of course, make a perfect addition. Yet, despite all these possible distractions, I decided on this - the 3483. This was not easy to find. In fact, I could find more 3417s than I could 3483s!
The Patek Philippe Reference 565 is a historically significant model, recognized for its clean design and robust construction, which positioned it as a versatile timepiece within the brand's offerings during its production era. It represents a period of design evolution for Patek Philippe, moving towards more contemporary aesthetics while retaining traditional watchmaking principles. The reference is particularly noted for its varied dial configurations and case materials, appealing to a broad range of collectors. It often featured a two-piece case construction, contributing to its durability and distinct profile.
This reference typically houses a manual-winding movement, known for its reliability and precision. Early examples often featured movements such as the Caliber 12-120, a well-regarded mechanism of its time. The case, frequently crafted from stainless steel, yellow gold, or rose gold, measured approximately 35mm in diameter, offering a balanced presence on the wrist. The crystal was commonly acrylic, providing a warm aesthetic consistent with watches of its period.
The Reference 565 holds considerable appeal for collectors interested in Patek Philippe's mid-century output, particularly those seeking models that combine understated elegance with solid mechanical foundations. Its variations, including those with sector dials or retailer signatures, add to its collectibility. The reference serves as an important link in the brand's design lineage, bridging earlier styles with later developments, and is valued for its authenticity and historical context within the Patek Philippe catalog.
Lots of thinking and research definitely went into building your collection with the right mix. Your post shows the joy that you had in the process. Congrats !! Gordon
......yes, i did narrow the field down quite a bit....process of elimination is a good way to work sometimes! Many thanks
Thanks for sharing here your Passion and your Choices. Enjoy wearing all of them. Best regards, Patrickh
Yep....i see it as a big upgrade....now i can go vintage Patek and that means a lot to me!
that you found such a nice piece and even better/more interesting one in steel. Congrats! It is a very classical beauty, which doesn´t show it´s qualities to everybody - at least not on the first view. The inner values are even better. The fact that you equate the beauty of this piece with the famous Ref. 5070P is something I like a lot. So many people hunt for the same references (these days) but miss quite a few "underdogs" which are not that known. Still there are quite a few superb pieces to
That's one beautiful rare piece ,and it looks sublime on your wrist…… Sometimes I guess skinny works ;) Ps I was not joking, I am borrowing it for one year… lol:)
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