Moritz Grossmann ATUM Pure Skull Debate

Ornatus-Mundi · 2017-10-12T08:15:01Z

Moritz Grossmann's ATUM Pure Skull sparks debate. Collectors discuss brand identity, design choices, and the impact on a respected independent watchmaker.

Ornatus-Mundi

WPS member · Independents forum

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Ornatus-Mundi's post on the Moritz Grossmann ATUM Pure Skull ignited a passionate debate within the community regarding brand identity and design choices. The introduction of such a polarizing piece prompted collectors to question the strategic direction of an independent manufacture known for classical Saxon watchmaking. This discussion explores the tension between artistic expression and commercial viability in luxury watchmaking.

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Moritz Grossmann to unveil the ATUM Pure Skull at WatchTime New York 2017:

From the press release: "In place of the “Mesh” and “Long Hole” dial inserts, the ATUM Pure Skull showcases a stylised skull in its centre. It is a proprietary design that reveals interesting glimpses of the calibre 201.1 movement. The skull is milled and wire-cut with electrical discharge machines in the manufacture, its surface polished or sandblasted to match the case, and then assembled with the remaining dial elements. This individualised manufacturing approach lends itself to dials with other popular motifs or heraldic symbols."

I mean, can this be real? You have more or less successfully established (I am still resting with the 'less') a fine manufacture, and then you do all you can mount to ruin its image with such an unneccessary, unimaginative, ugly monstrosity?

I know the crisis in the watchindustry is a fact, but how can this be a way out?

With soring neck muscles,
Magnus

Key Points from the Discussion

The introduction of the ATUM Pure Skull is seen as diluting the brand image, causing reluctance among potential buyers who previously admired Moritz Grossmann's classical designs and beautifully finished movements.
Many brands are experimenting with unconventional designs to boost sales, but this often leads to marketing departments overriding design integrity, potentially damaging a brand's established aesthetic and client base.
Damaging brand identity with a polarizing design is far more detrimental than the potential sales of a limited edition, as brand value is paramount and difficult to restore once compromised.
The ATUM Pure Skull's release coincided with WatchTime New York in October, suggesting a potential Halloween-themed concept, which might have been a miscommunicated idea rather than a serious shift in design ethos.
The skull motif, while popular with some brands like HYT, Richard Mille, and Bell & Ross, is viewed by many as 'unnecessary, unimaginative, and ugly,' raising questions about Moritz Grossmann's target audience.
The brand's ability to produce both the controversial skull watch and the 'beautiful' Only Watch entry highlights a stark 'Dr. Jekyll Mr. Hyde' character, indicating a significant divergence in design philosophy.

The Discussion

Alkiro1

Oct 12, 2017

I fully understand and share your feeling about this timepiece. My first reaction was 😳 then 🤔 and, finally, ☹️ I don’t really understand this watch in the context of the other Moritz Grossmann models. The main question is why? Best wishes Alkiro

ant

Oct 12, 2017

This is a sad turn of events. Everybody knows that biz is hard, very hard, but this? Please say it's 1st April. Sigh! ATB Antony

als1678

Oct 12, 2017

It is a very different category of brands but apparently HYT, RM, Bell & Ross skull watches are some of their bestsellers. I find all of them, to use your words, unnecessary, unimaginative, ugly. But with those offerings MG is definitely pushing the envelope! Maybe they will sell even better! - you know all those Russian oligarchs that secretly always wanted a Lange but were afraid of being accused of having taste?

alphabeta81

Oct 12, 2017

Imagine if Lange did this MG has established a brand identity. So to introduce a piece like this that is so contrary to brand identity either expands the brand or lessens the brand. I'm afraid in this case it lessens the brand. I actually think some skull watches are neat but here it simply doesn't work

COUNT DE MONET

Oct 12, 2017

That MG is using this in a modern twist is nothing inconceiveable. Moser went also quite funky with its coloured dials. Compared to Lange MG is keeping the door wide open for modern pieces. If these skulls sell, why not?

TylerDurden

Oct 12, 2017

sorry, i couldn't resist

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