MIH Watch: 10-Year Anniversary of a Minimalist Icon
Independents

MIH Watch: 10-Year Anniversary of a Minimalist Icon

By Ornatus-Mundi · Sep 28, 2015 · 42 replies
Ornatus-Mundi
WPS member · Independents forum
42 replies16149 views19 photos
f 𝕏 in 💬 🔗

Ornatus-Mundi's retrospective celebrates the 10th anniversary of the MIH Watch, a collaborative project that redefined watchmaking simplicity. This article delves into the watch's unique annual calendar mechanism, conceived by Ludwig Oechslin, and its enduring impact on independent horology. It highlights how the MIH Watch, with its minimalist design and ingenious engineering, became an icon for collectors.

Can you believe it was already 10 years ago? In September 2005 the dream team Ludwig Oechslin, Beat Weinmann, Paul Gerber and Christian Gafner presented the fruit of the unusual collaborative project - am minimalistic watch with a unique technology, realised without having a large watchmaking corporation in the back: the famous MIH Watch:



Incepted as a fundraiser for restauration works at the namesake Musée International d'Horlogerie (MIH) in La Chaud-des-Fonds, the MIH watch stood out of the mass primarily thanks to its ingenious annual calendar mechanism, composed of only 9 (additional) moving parts, thereby displaying the complete date indications (weekdaydate and month) in one single window.

The annual calendar is an archetypical brainchild of Ludwig Oechslin and represents his philosphy of watchmaking in a very illustrative way. A philosophy that is based upon the notion of 'synthesis', which already implies, if one is observant enough, that 'complication' will be interpreted with 'complexity', and thus might likely yield unexpected outsome (I have had ample opportunity to study both 'complex' and 'complicated' situations on my metagenomics studies, so this was a welcome exercise...).

Beat Weinmann, in the meantime founder and CEO of ochs und junior, but back then managing director of the Lucerne-based jeweller Embassy (who backed the project) and also coordinator for the MIH watch, said: "At Embassy, we are Ulysse Nardin authorised agents and therefore familiar with Oechslin's complicated creations, and consequently expected something ultracomplicated as the MIH watch. We were completely wrong...". What a - aehem! - surprise when Dr. Oechslin proudly presented this prototype as the MIH watch:



In a nutshell, the 'complication' with the MIH watch lies in the comprehensiveness and intensity of the thought-process which ultimately led to an amazingly simple construction:
The 'synthesis ' I referred to earlier is visible e.g. in the use of both the date as well as the hour gears of the base Valjoux 7750 movement to drive the calendar. The result is all of the above, an astonishingly simple, beautiful, readible and practical complication.



A complication which does not define itself by the number of its constituent parts, on the contrary, it is defined by the maximal reduction to achieve a given aim. So the complication lies more in the 'software', the brainworks needed, than in (more easily marketable) high number of parts. And as one could see, there a numerous added benefits to this as well.



Now one added complication was that such a reduced construction is not very straightforward to produce. Not only because of the tight tolerance and precision such a mechanism requires, but also because of Ludwig Oechslin's idiosyncratic way of construction: he does not consider tolerances which are inherent to any mechanical product, he creates 'in a perfect world'. Thus, it needed the expertise of master watchmaker Paul Gerber to interpret and translate Ochslin's score into production-ready timepiece - very much like a conductor does with a Bach symphony.

Paul Gerber not only 'industrialised' the MIH watch - he added his own personal mark with the inclusion of a porthole on the back, alllowing for using the base movement's chronograph function. Paul also modified the Valjoux for a monopusher operation (which is considerable more difficult with the Valjoux' cam/lever mechanism than with a traditional column wheel operated chronograph).



Responsible for an adequate packaing of the MIH watch was product designer Christian Gafner, who created a modern, graphical design based upon the concept of explainable, transparent relations of all design elements to each other, with everything is centered around the axis of the hands, the central point of this watch: 


(perfectly harmonised details (see text above))


(the only logo (and sole text) - MIH disguised a 9 o'clock index)


(the only indication of its origin - the geographic data of the MIH)

 
(straightforward luminosity of the MIH watch including the details)



So, as a result the MIH watch offers ample horological content and philosphical inspiration. It is a watch that helps us focus on the essentials, and start to create from there on. It is also a watch which could barely been created in the traditional watch industry, for many reasons. First, there are the technical challenges which such a watch inherently poses. Second, the entire design, technical as well its aesthetics, are pretty much outside the industry's mainstream. Third, there is an abundance of stories to tell about this watch, but their narrative do not bode well in a (marketing) world of 'the more, the better', of celebrity 'endorsements' an so on.

Totally in contrary to the exuberant embelishment of mainstream watchmaking the MIH watch came simply wrapped in the current day edition of the Swiss Newspaper Neue Zürcher Zeitung (NZZ), a daily of international repute:


(MIH watch, a lone sibling and its packaging)

The MIH watch is not easy to communicate today, and this is maybe a critical stumbling block in corporate watchmaking. But ony brand tried it though, Zenith, who licensed the MIH annual calendar for use on its own El Primero watch - a notable exception and a commendable move, but one which also clearly showed that the industry ticks differently than the MIH team:



The MIH watch attracted people different from typical watch collectors -- architects, designers, people who would have never bought any different watch. Keith Jarrett (!) is one owner...



 



But its unique conception makes one of the most intricate charms of this piece. It did not come into reality based upon a business case study, it happened because a group of crazy enthusiasts (and a jeweller who believed in it, we should not forget this!) embarked upon a journey. With all of them having their personality shining through the watch's face. And the journey brought some unprecedent issues. One of them was the unexpected success of this watch. It sold many times more pieces than anticipated, clearly exposing the logistical limitations of the project. Furthermore, there were a few hitches with the construction, but those were ironed out.

There are a few stories about it:
I wrote a bit further above: "It is a watch that helps us focus on the essentials, and start to create from there on." Well, this is also true for (parts) of the 'dream team'. 

(from left: Beat Weinmann, Christian Gafner, Paul Gerber and Ludwig Oechslin, during the inaugural ceremony at the MIH, 9 September 2005)

Beat Weinmann and Ludwig Oechslin continued their journey together: they founded ochs und junior, designed as an outlet for radically unfiltered ideas of Oechslin, this time not only in terms of construction, but also in terms of design, packaging, communication. 

The two took an important lession from the MIH project: there is a niche for authentic watchmaking, thriving on values like simplicity, transparence and traceability. which can be totally off the tracks of haute horlogerie common denominators: focus on the intellectual essentials, let the product speak of the process of its creation. Do not embellish, do not 'hide'.

Their first product, the Anno Cinquanta, is based upon the same annual calendar mechanism, now further simplified to utilise only 3 moving parts (and sacrificing a bit of intuition in the process, but isn't intuition too often based upon habit?). I own both so here is a side-by-side shot:

 

The case is sterling silver, the dial heat-aged white gold, its movement a manufactory Paul Gerber movement with 100h power reserve:



Christian Gafner later on revived a German sports shoes brand, basically implementing the same principles MIH stood for with shoes. Paul Gerber continued his legend, and used the technical and industrial basis he expanded thanks to the MIH watch as well as the esperience gained to further his own creations - I will come back to his latest Model 41 (and a very special version of it, a 'unique' one, on top) a bit later.

While I agree that the MIH watch was not for everyone, I am immensely thankful for its existence and in particular for the intellectual teachings it gave me. Not only enriched it my horlogical knowledge and understanding, it also offered me the acquaintanceship of four outstanding personalities I now can call friends.

 

What are your thoughts on the MIH watch? Do you own one, did you contemplate one? Do you have your story to share?

Thanks for reading and have a great week,
Magnus
This message has been edited by Ornatus-Mundi on 2015-09-29 00:06:54 This message has been edited by MTF on 2015-09-29 01:05:00

Key Points from the Discussion

Advertisement
The Discussion
KM
KMII
Sep 28, 2015

Really nicely summarized and even though I have read the story previously, there are always new details emerging, and your take is no different in that respect - thanks! As for your final question, do not own one but definitely conteplate it. Whether it will join the collection prior to or after an ochs & junior piece remains to be seen but enter it shall

RN
rnaden
Sep 28, 2015

but...there is always a but...I've refrained because I have small wrists, and 42mm is as big as it gets for me, and seeing the thickness of the watch in pictures and on paper, I'm not willing to commit without first trying it out in the metal, but I don't know anyone within my circle that has one, short of flying halfway across the world for it. I love the simplicity of the watch, and it is very much in my taste field. Black and white, extremely clear and legible and with an annual calendar with

MA
Mark in Paris
Sep 28, 2015

I don't know the watch and just saw several pictures on the forum. I thought it was a very simple, very affordable watch. Maybe because I am not very keen on the aesthetical design and style, maybe this is why I didn't have a closer look at it. But your article is enlightening! Indeed the Annual Calendar, the way it is done, is a great feature. I guess only independents watchmakers can bring such project to term that way. Thanks a lot for the discovery Magnus. Cheers, Mark

JP
jporos
Sep 28, 2015

Thanks for this exposition on the MIH and its after affects.

CA
cazalea
Sep 28, 2015

I've had two MIH watches, both from the first hundred or so of the production. YOUR article made me order one as soon as I could - and I still had to wait the better part of a year. So I've had mine about 9 years now. For the last 24 hours I've been trying to decide how to write about my experiences with my watch(s)=as yes, I've owned more than one MIH. But I have kept this one copy longer than almost any other watch I own. In my research I went back and read previous posts, looked at pictures,

DO
donizetti
Sep 28, 2015

such a serene and reduced design, and 100% under the radar screen. Great report. Small side note: Glenn Gould died in 1982 - do you mean Keith Jarrett? Best Andreas

Advertisement

Continue the conversation

This thread is active on the Independents forum with 42 replies. Share your knowledge with fellow collectors.

Join the Discussion →