New Release
SJX's initial impressions of the MB&F Horological Machine No2 Ceramic highlight a pivotal moment for the brand, introducing a new material to one of its most distinctive designs. This post captures the excitement and critical evaluation of a groundbreaking independent watch, setting the stage for discussions on innovation and design originality that continue to resonate in haute horology.
The HM2 has long been one my favourite Horological Machines (although it is not the most comfortable on the wrist) and this appears to be the best iteration yet. I can't wait to see this in Geneva, I expect it will be the best looking of all the Horological Machines.
- SJX
Press release:
Horological Machine N o 2 - Ceramic
MB&F presents Horological Machine No 2 with a ceramic case. Two versions are available: ceramic with red gold (HM2-CR) and ceramic with titanium (HM2-CTi).
Ceramic: there is nothing quite like it. In fact, nothing that even comes close! From exquisite 5,000 year old pottery to 300 km/hour brake disks on Formula One racing cars; from the aqueducts of the Roman Empire to 1,600°C heat shields on the space shuttle, ceramic’s extreme versatility is complimented an incredible ability to shrug of time and adversity.
Like MB&F, ceramic effortlessly bridges tradition and high-tech; engineering and art. MB&F and ceramic is a natural match. A natural match yes, but not an easy one. The case of HM2- Ceramic is the result of over 18 months development due to the fact that working with a material built to last for generations isn’t easy (necessitating diamond milling tools) and that MB&F was uncompromising with regard to quality, esthetics and finish.
HM2-Ceramic is a juxtaposition of materials and finishes. The black ceramic case has a unique brushed satin finish - ceramic surfaces are generally high gloss – which imparts a silvery metallic sheen to the timepiece: a finish appropriately fitting for a horological machine par excellence.
In HM2-CR (ceramic/red gold), the stealth black of the virtually scratchproof case provides a high-contrast background to the red gold bezels and nameplate, while HM2-CTi (ceramic/titanium) offers a more reserved look. On the extra-wide strap, the metal of the tang buckle compliments that of the case base-plate.
The highly legible twin dials of HM2-Ceramic are black and ruthenium, a combination providing easy time telling without the dials dominating the timepiece.
HM2-Ceramic features the world's first mechanical movement offering: Instantaneous Jump Hour, Concentric Retrograde Minutes, Retrograde Date, Bi-Hemisphere Moon Phase and Automatic Winding. One highlight (of many) of the HM2 complication is the highly energy efficient Jump Hour/Retrograde mechanism developed by Jean-Marc Wiederrecht. Wiederrecht's exclusive (and patented) asymmetrical-tooth gear wheels ensure high precision and play-free functionality.
The exclusivity of HM2-Ceramic is ensured by the fact that the model will be limited to just 33 timepieces in ceramic/red gold and 66 in ceramic/titanium.
De Bethune DB25 Reference DB25
The DB25 represents De Bethune's entry in the 44.5mm manual-wind category, distinguished by its silver dial configuration within the DB25 series. This reference launched in 2006 and continues the brand's approach to contemporary haute horlogerie complications.
The 44.5mm case is crafted from 18k white gold with a fixed bezel and sapphire crystal. Water resistance extends to 30 meters. The manual-winding caliber DB2105 movement provides a substantial 120-hour power reserve. The watch features a leather strap attachment.
This reference appeals to collectors seeking De Bethune's technical approach to timekeeping in a precious metal case. The extended power reserve and manual-wind operation position it for enthusiasts who appreciate hands-on interaction with their timepieces. The 44.5mm sizing places it in contemporary proportions within the independent watchmaking segment.
HM2-Ceramic β Technical Specifications Horological Machine N o 2-Ceramic is a limited edition (over three years) of just 33 pieces in ceramic/red gold (HM2-CR) and 66 pieces in ceramic/titanium (HM2-CTi) HM2 Ceramic with red gold HM2 Ceramic with titanium Movement: Jean-Marc Wiederrecht/Agenhor designed functionality regulated and powered by a Girard-Perregaux oscillator and gear train Balance oscillating at 28,800 bph 22k rose gold Double Hakken automatic winding rotor Number of components: 349
Both of those watches are absolutely gorgeous! I like the RG/ceramic version most, but I would take either.
...here: home.watchprosite.com And indeed, the HM2 resembles the B&R Grand Minuteur even more than it resembles the B&R Tourbillon. Personally I doubt that either firm "copied" the other. The lateral struts are a classic "stiffening" solution for a wide flat plate. You'll find similar struts under any domestic table with a single, central leg. That HM2 Ceramic/RG is a damn fine looking watch. Cheers Tony P
The HM2 was unveiled in Oct 2007 and delivered Jan 2008. The B&R Grand Minuteur and Tourbillon were both presented in Mar 2008 and none have been delivered to retailers yet as far as I know. Furthermore, I first saw drawings of the HM2 in 2006 so I can confirm that the watch had been designed as far back as that year, though the concept was developed even earlier. Based on that info it appears the HM2 came first. - SJX
I seem to remember it was announced long before that - I could swear the B&R Tourbillon had already been out for at least 1 year at the time (early 08) the Minuteur was released. Most likely, in late 06/early 07 there were top-secret drawings extant for both the HM2 and the Minuteur, with neither firm having access to the other's design ideas. Not that it really matters. Like I say, the two companies' watches share some visual cues, but in my opinion neither could be regarded as a rip-off of the
Google the terms and you'll find a couple of press releases dated to March 2008. - SJX
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