Independents
KIH provides an exclusive progress report on Masahiro Kikuno's new project, focusing on his meticulous craftsmanship and the evolution of his "Mokumegane" dial. This article offers a rare glimpse into the independent watchmaker's atelier, showcasing the labor-intensive process behind his unique dials and the technical refinements of his movement prototypes. KIH's detailed account highlights Kikuno's dedication to traditional Japanese artistry and horological precision.
De Bethune DB25 Reference DB25
The DB25 represents De Bethune's entry in the 44.5mm manual-wind category, distinguished by its silver dial configuration within the DB25 series. This reference launched in 2006 and continues the brand's approach to contemporary haute horlogerie complications.
The 44.5mm case is crafted from 18k white gold with a fixed bezel and sapphire crystal. Water resistance extends to 30 meters. The manual-winding caliber DB2105 movement provides a substantial 120-hour power reserve. The watch features a leather strap attachment.
This reference appeals to collectors seeking De Bethune's technical approach to timekeeping in a precious metal case. The extended power reserve and manual-wind operation position it for enthusiasts who appreciate hands-on interaction with their timepieces. The 44.5mm sizing places it in contemporary proportions within the independent watchmaking segment.
I was wondering, is it another type of broze he used for the 1st version that it did not oxidize much? When i was holding it few months back i was wondering why it still looks so "new". My bronze watch oxidized waaaay sooner. Very much looking forward to see his final product when its all done. So the 6497 is the final decision for the movement with maybe more modifications?
.... maybe have something to do with the surface treatment? Yes, he settled on 6497 with his own modifications (bridges, counterweight on the hairspring to eliminate position difference). Ken
Many independents have started by modifying existing calibers, many of those being 6497 or 6498. It's a nice large, robust, simple caliber that's a good experimentation platform. I like that he hand folds the mokume gane, and only uses a hammer to form the pattern. That's the original Japanese method, I believe, not drilling holes in it, but peening it. It would have been done that way by smiths for sword fittings and such. The 3 second delta is very nice, but not unheard of. A very good adjuste
What I love about these watches is that they represent a hand-made craft that doesn't try to be anybody else's work. The aesthetic is personal to Mr. Kikuno. The labor-intensive process of creating the dials is one that no businessman would ever choose, but artists have compulsions sometimes. Among the many fine details, I love the robustness and three-dimensionality of the hands. The hands on watches draw my eye immediately, as I feel they're supposed to, so it is crucial that they not be an af
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