Jürgensen, Pratt & Voutilainen: Independent Watchmaking
Independents

Jürgensen, Pratt & Voutilainen: Independent Watchmaking

By quattro · Feb 12, 2026 · 28 replies
quattro
WPS member · Independents forum
28 replies2017 views19 photos
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Emmanuel, known as quattro on WatchProSite, revisits the launch of the Urban Jürgensen UJ-1 and UJ-2, watches crafted by Kari Voutilainen to revitalize the esteemed brand. While the initial community reception was mixed, Emmanuel champions the UJ-1, a wristwatch reinterpretation of Derek Pratt's iconic Oval pocket watch, as a truly exceptional piece. His post invites collectors to reconsider these significant independent horology creations and share their perspectives on their design and legacy.

The launch of the UJ-1 & UJ-2, two of the three watches made by Kari Voutilainen to revive the Urban Jürgensen brand have been welcomed on our site with moderate enthusiasm: The new Urban Jürgensen Collection.

However, I personally find the UJ-1, which is a wristwatch reinterpretation of Derek Pratt's Oval pocket watch, to be a fantastic piece.

So I am happy to highlight it again together with the UJ-2 and a Derek Pratt UJ pocket watch:

  • UJ-1 Tourbillon in rose gold. A reimagination of the legendary Urban Jürgensen Derek Pratt Oval Pocket Watch.
  • UJ-2 in rose gold with a blue dial: three-hand watch with double wheel natural escapement.
  • Perpetual Calendar, Minute Repeating pocket watch with Moonphases made by Derek Pratt for Urban Jürgensen with a yellow gold hunter case, 1985.

What do you think?

Best, Emmanuel







































credit: @thedeadwatchsociety, Monochrome, Hodinkee, A Blog To watch & Phillips

About the De Bethune DB25 Ref. DB25

De Bethune DB25 Reference DB25

The DB25 represents De Bethune's entry in the 44.5mm manual-wind category, distinguished by its silver dial configuration within the DB25 series. This reference launched in 2006 and continues the brand's approach to contemporary haute horlogerie complications.

The 44.5mm case is crafted from 18k white gold with a fixed bezel and sapphire crystal. Water resistance extends to 30 meters. The manual-winding caliber DB2105 movement provides a substantial 120-hour power reserve. The watch features a leather strap attachment.

This reference appeals to collectors seeking De Bethune's technical approach to timekeeping in a precious metal case. The extended power reserve and manual-wind operation position it for enthusiasts who appreciate hands-on interaction with their timepieces. The 44.5mm sizing places it in contemporary proportions within the independent watchmaking segment.

Specifications

Caliber
DB2105
Case
18k White Gold
Diameter
44.5 mm
Dial
Silver
Water Resist.
30m
Crystal
Sapphire

Key Points from the Discussion

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The Discussion
QU
quattro
Feb 12, 2026

It’s the UJ-1 that speaks to me, in particular.

TE
TeutonicCarFan
Feb 12, 2026

I like the layouts and the finishing. One thing I don’t like is the 12 o’clock. It sure if it’s a 0? Or ()? Dial side, I like the tourbillon piece better. I am not a fan of the smaller chapter ring on the blue.

QU
quattro
Feb 12, 2026

For me too, dial and movement sides, it’s the UJ-1 that really stands out. Best, Emmanuel

CA
cazalea
Feb 12, 2026

One of my great pleasures in the watch world was meeting and talking with Derek Pratt. What a nice and humble guy he was. I talked with him and Kari for awhile, not knowing who either of them were... Cazalea We were all just “watch guys” 20 years ago...

MD
mdg
Feb 13, 2026

...and appear to be far thicker than their listed dimensions. Classic UJ may have needed a lift, but these are a miss. In addition, they have one of the most annoying websites I've ever seen.

MD
mdg
Feb 13, 2026

...far too cute. Silly, in fact. I love older UJs, but these have zero appeal to me...

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