Jorg Hysek of HD3: Design Philosophy

SJX provides an insightful interview with Jorg Hysek of HD3, a legendary watch designer known for his prolific work with major brands before launching his own ventures. The discussion covers Hysek's distinctive design philosophy, characterized by aggressive curves and visible mechanical parts, and the unique challenges and opportunities for independent watchmakers in a niche market.

A few weeks ago, Jorg Hysek of HD3 was in Singapore where he is represented by E’Collezione. I had a short chat with the designer whose longevity in the watch business is almost unparalled.

Jorg Hysek was an extremely prolific watch designer, like Gerald Genta but a decade later. For about twenty years from the early eighties onwards he enjoyed tremendous commercial success, working for Breguet, Cartier, Ebel, TAG Heuer and Seiko, amongst others. His work is characterised by aggressive curves and lines, with some of the best known being original Breguet Marine with the turban-like crown, the TAG Heuer Kirum and the Seiko Arctura Kinetic.

Jorg Hysek with Timmy Tan of TimeWerke  

In 2000 he launched Hysek which made watches, pens and other accessories (his pens were sleek and clipless; I still have some) but fell out with his partner and left in 2006. He then started HD3 with Valerie Ursenbacher and Fabrice Gonet, whom he had been working with for over 20 years. HD3 is a small operation, the target output for 2011 is 500 to 700 watches only while last year it was a fraction of that. Hysek obviously works because he likes it and not because he needs to.

He describes the design philosophy of HD3 as "distinctive with visible mechanical parts", which has been made possible only by the advance in manufacturing that has allowed complex forms to be executed. Most of HD3's clients are in Asia and Russia. Hysek adds that prior to 2008, Russians were especially good customers. 

HD3 Three Minds in rose gold

Though not a watchmaker, Hysek’s tenure in the industry gives him an understanding of the business that few others have. One of the shifts he has witnessed has been the transition from a fragmented industry to consolidation into luxury groups. His former clients like Breguet, Cartier, Ebel and TAG Heuer have all been acquired, sometimes more than once.

Working with these firms before they were bought out was a different experience according to him. In those days, he explains, designers like him had an easier time because there was a direct line to the owners and there were less committees and professional managers around. And even if they were owned by larger entities (Investcorp owned Breguet, while TAG Heuer was controlled by TAG before it went public) then, the companies were smaller and decisions were less bureaucratic. Freelancing was also the norm in those days, which is why he was so productive, while today all the big groups demand exclusivity.

Hysek has particular scorn for what he calls “financial people” who interfere in the creative process. “[They] see emotion in numbers, not the product”, he says. Such people have completely taken over the industry, in his opinion, but that allows small brands like HD3 to stand out.

He has kinder words for watchmakers. Designers and watchmakers are kindred spirits in his opinion, both are dreamers yet understand the importance of details. 

Because HD3 is purely a designer – he has no desire to become a manufacturer – Hysek has worked with most of the marquee names in movement construction. Concepto and La Joux-Perret (the former was founded by the son of the latter’s founder who is now in jail) are singled out as favoured partners for their creativity and strength of manufacturing. He also has high praise for the now defunct BNB for its willingness to try practically anything the client suggested.

The HD3 Black Pearl, originally intended as a limited edition it is now a piece unique since movement supplier BNB is gone  

BNB went under because of its ambitions which collided with the credit crisis. As a result of the subsequent recession, the industry has changed. Russians who previously spent freely now wants discounts, says Hysek. So he has had to adapt. Watches in the CHF50,000-100,000 bracket are the slowest movers now, and so he will be unveiling models in the CHF10,000-15,000 range next year while continuing with his top end exotic complications. Another trend Hysek cites is the well publicised resurgence of simpler, flatter watches. So expect that as well in 2011.

But none of the new models will be tourbillons, for there are too many. Hysek still regards it as a wonderful complication, both visually and mechanically, but the “value of the tourbillon [has been pushed] down” by the oversupply in recent years. Instead he will focus on new ways of reading the time.

Below: HD3 Raptor, two-faced, flip-up tourbillon wristwatch with electronic movement below

Another path forward is collaborations with other watchmakers who are technically creative. One he has lined up is with Lionel Ladoire, whom he commends as being technically creative. Once that is successfully off the ground, Hysek is confident others will follow.

Hysek is proud of his creations at HD3, but he gives other designers their due, citing Mille as a pioneer as well as the Ebel designer who did the famous Wave bracelet. But successful as they are, few of them are still going strong after 30 years and for that Jorg Hysek is exceptional.

- SJX