Independent Watchmakers: Market & Critical Thoughts
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Independent Watchmakers: Market & Critical Thoughts

By Bruno.M1 · Nov 11, 2023 · 20 replies
Bruno.M1
WPS member · Independents forum
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Bruno.M1's provocative post challenges the contemporary definition of 'independent watchmaker,' sparking a crucial debate within the collector community. His insights question the authenticity of brands heavily reliant on third-party suppliers and critically examine the 'independent bubble' phenomenon. This discussion is essential for both seasoned collectors and newcomers to understand the evolving landscape of luxury horology.

Seeing this new Ming selling for close to 60.000 euro taxes included .... Have to say I have serious reservations about the terms independent and bubble anyway.

For me this is 100% the opposite of an independent.
They are DEPENDING 100% on third party suppliers.

Imo ( but really IMO) cause most call everything independent that does not belong to LVMH, Kering, Swatch, Richemont, ...) and independent should be able to make a watch on his own without somebody delivering him ALL the necessary parts.

I coud do the same. Contact a designer, a case maker, a movement maker, dial and hands and finally look for someone who puts everything together. Maybe I would like the result but I would not have the arrogance nor the guts to call myself an independent watchmaker.

If you make your own case ( already VERY rare ) if you make your own dial, hands, crown ... If you reword a existing movement or you finish it to a superior level or you really start from scratch ( except hairspring, jewels, ... ) THAT makes you an independent

People scream all the time the Nautulis, Daytona, Royal oak and so are overhyped and we should look more at independents. I agree but only to a degree cause nowadays we're imo in an independent bubble. Or at least when we're talking about brands like  ... well I don't need to name them you can easily name enough of them yourself.

Also, but that's another discussion .... The top independents are unfortunately also a way overpriced and overhyped story today. Most will agree the top 3 are Rexhep, Dufour and Smith.
Look, as much as I like these ... They are insane overhyped today.
I'm already long in this watch collecting thing and believe me, I've met all 3 of them more than once ... and more important Dufour and Smith about 20 years ago and Rexhep 12 years ago.
Back then a Dufour was about 40-50 K, Smith also around 45K. If only I had the money smile ... and by the way all you needed was the money, there were NO waiting lists or you didn't have to be a wealthy watch collector with already a bag full of expensive special watches.
When Rexhep started Akrivia I spoke him more than once during the first 2 years. Believe me these were VERY hard times for him... nobody bought them.

Yes, these 3 are also in my top 3 dream list ... But seeing Dufour and Smith selling for around 1 million  ... that's just nuts




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The Discussion
DA
damianp
Nov 11, 2023

I have less of a problem with the prices and more of a problem with the experiences. Buying independent watches was as much about the experience of buying „your“ watch and being in direct contact with the watchmakers as it was about the watches themselves to me. Nowadays it‘s the same as with other mainstream brands. Only the top 1% customers now get the treatment every customer got a few years ago. As a „normal“ customer you often even have to buy it, without being able to try it on before.

AN
andrea~
Nov 11, 2023

But I like brands with a big history that I can dive into and study, and that have proven their staying power over the years. Plus I don't have the budget to buy high end independents.

EN
enjoythemusic
Nov 11, 2023

Great profits in horological endeavors were reaped due to 'easy currency central banking schemes' to keep their system afloat in recent years. As we all know, this has greatly benefitted the luxury goods market (in general), with too much 'cheap currency' chasing too few things of intrinsic value and services. Sadly, there's the afterMATH 'hangover' on the other side of MMT. Prices doubling-ish over the past three or so years make sense when you look at the currency creation on steroids / devalu

JA
Jay (Eire)
Nov 11, 2023

It’s been a crazy several years which of course has encouraged many new entrants (watchmakers, brand makers and CEOs) to the “my first indie watch will be $50-80k” market. But entry price points aside I don’t know if these new entrants are bad for collecting, the opposite in fact as we now have more choice and more ideas. I don’t include Ming in that “my first indie watch will be $50-80k” cohort as obviously they have spent several years building the brand, the operations, suppliers etc. While I

BR
Brandon Skinner
Nov 11, 2023

I, too, don’t see Ming and others similar to them as an Independent, more of a high end micro brand… which by the way there is nothing wrong with whatsoever and we as collectors are allowed to place our money however we wish. Fortunately there are still some really compelling true Indies out there with reasonable price points so not all is lost.

WA
Watchonthewrist
Nov 12, 2023

I do tend to focus more on real indies nowadays where watches are for the most part made by there creators and not by a designer although some are really beautiful watches tbh .

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