Independents
SJX initiates a thought-provoking discussion on the evolution of independent watchmaking, questioning whether the classical styles of the late 20th century have given way to a new era of avant-garde designs. This post invites the community to reflect on what defines an 'independent' watchmaker and the enduring value of different horological philosophies.
I was discussing independent watchmakers with a friend and in response to something he wrote I penned the following, off the top of my head. What do others think?
"The Daniels-Smith collaboration watch is in the old pocket watch, slightly Breguet style. These watches were the only type of independent watchmaking in the 70s to early 90s. Guilloche dial, gilt movement, blued steel etc. Daniel Roth, George Daniels, Derek Pratt, even early Journe all looked the same. Movements also largely looked the same. These were considered premier independents of their day. Early Franck Muller aped Breguet too.
Derek Pratt:
Early Journe:
Even American watchmakers did it, and beautifully:
www.watchprosite.com (Gene Clark, talented guy who has since passed away) More Gene Clark www.christies.com
So those were representative of independent watchmaking of the late 20th century. I think the time of such watchmakers has passed, this current era is Urwerk, MB&F, RM, whose time will pass soon. They will still sell and remain but they will no longer be representative of the next era. So the question is, why buy current Daniels instead of an old one? That albeit requires a lot of patience (and money)."
- SJX
This message has been edited by SJX on 2010-11-11 03:59:27started the mechanical watch boom was not yet a reality, they made watches for a chosen few who were interested in watches made of a certain sort. The big change came IMO with Vianney Halter his Antiqua from 1998 was a UFO and I believe that is his Opus III that showed that a different type of watchmaking was possible and shone the light on the "alternative" watchmaking which blended high horology and design. With the boom of watches in the past decade peple became more discerning and were more
between the Breguet inspired era and the current modern watchmaking era, both in terms of timing (1998) and in terms of design, there are hints of both in Vianney's design. I do agree with you but the Breguet inspired independents are nevertheless a particular era, which you rightly say catered to a small group of collectors (all of whom presumably liked that style). Today is an industry of great diversity as your write, but that particular era of those particular watches is past, even if simila
Some Roman bridges are still standing and being used for heavy modern transportation after 2000 years without losing any of their classic appeal - and their fundamental qualities based on physics and the innovating development and engineering and the building materials of that time, and continuing to vsupport these bridges until this day of steel and cement. So is it with watches. What agrieves me the most is that Vianney should be placed within a so-called historical process of watch design! He
buy a "new" Daniels, and not a old one...its whether he new Daniels represent the horological values you treasure and appreciate. if my collecting philosophy involves wearing the latest and newest, then you are spot on. how many of us actually goes back to the true and basic goodness of Rolex for example. even amongst the new independents...there those who make in classical styles..Laurent Ferrier, Peter Speake Marin and to some extent Greubel Forsey comes to mind. The MBFs(of which you know i a
where few Breguet watches were available for sale at auction. With the "rebirth" of Breguet and higher availability of the original pocket watches this may have changed. On the other hand Roger Smith's work is highly inspired by the Breguet aesthetics and he is enjoying immense success so I guess the Breguet "look" still has appeal
I collected works of watchmaking from several perspectives simultaneously. As SJX and many of the old timers here know, I was and remain a fan of Lange, and that's how I came onto this website so many years ago. I don't talk much about Lange, Patek, Panerai mainly because i don't think I can contribute any new perspectives these days for these brands and makers. BUT..when it really comes to the subject of watershed periods of watch designs and the point at which SOME watchmakers break out to bec
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