Independent Watchmakers: Support or Not?
Independents

Independent Watchmakers: Support or Not?

By chosenhandle · Mar 19, 2018 · 24 replies
chosenhandle
WPS member · Independents forum
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Chosenhandle initiates a thought-provoking discussion on the value of supporting independent watchmakers versus established brands, questioning where to draw the line in defining 'independent.' The post explores the desire for a personal connection with the watchmaker and its impact on the collecting experience, using F.P. Journe and Lang & Heyne as examples.

Gentlemen,

I visit it daily and appreciate the experience and expertise that I find on this site. Thanks for sharing your knowledge!  One of these days, I will make a meaningful contribution myself! 

Over time, my thoughts on acquiring watches has evolved from buying recognizable names (omega, Ulysse Nardin, Blancpain etc) to supporting small independent makers. It seems clear to me from reading anecdotal accounts and pictures of "production facilities", that purchasing from a small independent will have a more meaningful impact as compared to buying more watches from one of the conglomerates. For the money spent, not only do I receive a beautiful watch, but also the beginnings of a relationship that adds to the value. I am trying not to sound noble or egalitarian, but rather I believe the spirit of watch collecting is alive with those small makers and supporting each other will allow all of us to enjoy our hobby even more. But where does that notion end? Is J.P. Journe no longer a small independent because it does not include those personal touches? It is technically a small independent company. Or, should I put extra weight on selecting a Lang & Heyne watch because Marco Lang has personally connected with me and made recommendations based on our discussion? Both make absolutely world class products and I am sure both will satisfy me for the rest of my life. But is one superior to the other when considering our hobby and keeping it alive? By the way, I am using those two brands as examples only. 

So, am I alone in wanting to keep the dream alive? Where do I draw the line on supporting small independent watchmakers?

Thanks for reading my rambling. I really look forward to your thoughts on this. I leave you now with a beautiful shot of the Lang & Heyne Frederich II

Paul




This message has been edited by cazalea on 2018-03-19 16:44:14

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The Discussion
WA
Watchonthewrist
Mar 19, 2018

Just buy a watch you like the most and if there is a nice click with the brand cq watchmaker thats a plus imho . Like you i pref indie brands 🤗.

VE
Velociphile - No longer in the building
Mar 19, 2018

You use a couple of good examples at somewhat the ends of the spectrum. Are you suggesting there is some kind of metric that is a cut-off? Like annual production numbers, or turnover beyond which 'they're too big'? They're all an order of magnitude or more below the monster houses or groups, so all the indies are all in at least the one same bucket, i.e. exclusive. Let's be honest, any clueless gannet tourist off a bus trip in Bond St can buy a Patek from a piece of paper with a list of referenc

CA
cazalea
Mar 19, 2018

Here are the names of watches they own - we could not agree on whether AHCI or not was important; if once independent now brand was important or not. Svend Andersen Soren Andersen Hajime Asaoka Felix Baumgartner Aaron Becsei Robert Bray Vincent Calabrese Konstantin Chaykin Valerii Danevych Nicolas Delaloye Philippe Dufour Miki Eleta Paul Gerber / MIH Beat Haldimann Vianney Halter Marc Jenni François-Paul Journe * Frank Jutzi Masahiro Kikuno Christian Klings Marco Lang Bernhard Lederer Xushu Ma J

CH
chosenhandle
Mar 19, 2018

I think what I was trying to ascertain is what is the value of a relationship I would have with Lang & Heyne as compared to Journe. L&H gives you a world class product and access to the designer, Journe does not (to my knowledge anyway). Does that access have a value to you? I think it does and makes me want to prefer small makers where I can actually converse with the designer. I'm just waiting for you guys to tell me I'm all wet and I should just buy the watch that looks good.

MI
Mitch K
Mar 19, 2018

I enjoy many different pieces for different reasons. Most of my watches carry with them a combination of technology, art and story. It is the story that the watch is involved in is what makes the piece a piece u inquest for me. That story can occur with a brand or with an independent. I values the independent watchmakers that I know and have and/or are working with. I have the honor of having met Marco and I think he is a good persona do a watchmaker of the finest order. In fact I shall soon be

WA
Watch_time_it_is
Mar 19, 2018

Personally, when I have encountered this same question, I've looked for the soul of the watch. As obscure a concept in watches as in humans. The question I ask myself is "can I feel the hand of the watchmaker on the watch, the design, the movement, the details, the craftsmanship, the buying experience, the combination?" Not literally but spiritually, as I know many independents may not have actually assembled the piece themselves - but maybe they did. Or, the "distance" from them doing it themse

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