
nitediver revisits H. Moser & Cie five years after his initial visit, offering a focused look at several key watches from their collection. This second part of his report highlights the brand's Endeavour Perpetual models with various dial and case combinations, alongside the Endeavour Concept Centre Seconds, providing a snapshot of Moser's distinctive aesthetic and movement finishing.
Visit at H. Moser & Cie: 5 years later (Part 2)
The Watches.
This is not a systematic review of the H. Moser
collection. Their catalogues and their
website will do a much better job in presenting what is on offer. This is just
a cross section of pieces presented by my hosts Mr. Meylan and Mr. Gruenenwald.
Endeavour Perpetual White Gold with Funky Blue Dial and kudu leather strap - very attractive indeed! The Endeavour Perpetual features a 40.8 mm case.

Endeavour Perpetual White Gold with Black Dial
Rose Gold version with Fumé Dial
White gold version with brown fumé dial and Kudu strap. Another nice combination.
The movement side of the Endeavour Perpetual. The calibre 341 is still one of the most attractive movements out there, IMO. 34 mm, 5.8 mm thick, beating with a frequency of 18’000 /h. double barrel and 7 days power reserve.
An Endeavour Concept Centre Seconds with funky blue dial (not the final version). This is the watch worn by Mr. Meylan . Look at the strap – extra cool. The watch is 40.8 mm in size.
Movement side of the Endeavour Concept showing the calibre HMC 343: Same dimensions and similar technical features as the Perpetual Calendar movement: 34 mm diameter , 5.8 mm thick, double barrel and 7 days power reserve.
Venturer small second in white gold with white lacquer dial and roman numerals. The case is 38.8 mm in diameter.
Movement HMC 327, 32 mm diameter, 4.4 mm thick, 3 day power reserve. Please note that this is a pre-production movement and does not have the final finish (as you can see on the power reserve sector)
Looking good on the wrist. However personally I prefer the typical H. Moser dials with indices
Venturer small seconds as Bucherer Edition in white gold featuring a very, very nice blue fumé dial. The blue dial is very hard to capture with the camera.
Venturer small seconds in WG with ardoise (grey) fumé dial.
Red gold and blue dial version of the Venturer small seconds.
Red gold with brown fumé dial
Another very nice combination: red gold with ardoise (grey) fumé dial.
And finally a Venturer small seconds in red gold with argenté (silver) dial .
In my opinion, Moser offers a very nice selection of dial and case combinations, demonstrated on the Venturer small seconds. Which version do you prefer? Personally I most fond to ardoise and blue dials, especially in combination with a white gold case. The ardoise dial with the red gold case looks phantastic too.
The Venturer actually comes with a curved dial.
You can’t really see it on the photos, but from certain angles it is clearly
visible. Here are two pictures I took on another occasion:

(Here a Venturer Big Date)
The convex dial adds to the attraction of the face and speaks for the attention that goes into the details.
Below is the new Pioneer line in the Perpetual Calendar version.
The Pioneer features a nine-part 43 mm case which allows for various material combinations. The version on the photo is made of red gold and titanium. A centre seconds version has been introduced as well.
You might notice that there is no picture of the now-famous Swiss Alp Watch – the one with the Apple watch case design. The 40 pcs series is sold out and there was not even one Alp watch left in the manufacture! In the meanwhile, Moser announced an unlimited version of the Alp Watch – the Swiss Alp Watch S.
I would like to thank Mr. Meylan and Mr. Gruenenwald for their hospitality. It was great seeing the manufacture again and I wish the team continued good success!
Best
Stefan
(End of post)
De Bethune DB25 Reference DB25
The DB25 represents De Bethune's entry in the 44.5mm manual-wind category, distinguished by its silver dial configuration within the DB25 series. This reference launched in 2006 and continues the brand's approach to contemporary haute horlogerie complications.
The 44.5mm case is crafted from 18k white gold with a fixed bezel and sapphire crystal. Water resistance extends to 30 meters. The manual-winding caliber DB2105 movement provides a substantial 120-hour power reserve. The watch features a leather strap attachment.
This reference appeals to collectors seeking De Bethune's technical approach to timekeeping in a precious metal case. The extended power reserve and manual-wind operation position it for enthusiasts who appreciate hands-on interaction with their timepieces. The 44.5mm sizing places it in contemporary proportions within the independent watchmaking segment.
Thank you for your report and your time Stefan. Best wishes Alkiro
Up till now. It\'s a great technical perpetual topped off with those fumé dials.
If Moser increased the quality of their movement finishing just a little to match PP (it is usually said they are just short of this), then they would be much more successful, I think.
...with new color combinations and ideas in rocky times...
together and draw your own conclusions. This to me is an unfair charge.
The photos posted by the rightfully proud owners here on our forum here are simply mesmerizing. I cant see enough of that blue dial. Have a great 2017 Alkiro. Best Stefan
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