Graham-London Chronofighter Oversize Insights
Manufacture

Graham-London Chronofighter Oversize Insights

By Dr No · Sep 9, 2012 · 6 replies
Dr No
WPS member · Independents forum
6 replies2309 views4 photos
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Dr No's insightful report on his meeting with Eric Loth of Graham-London offers a rare glimpse into the brand's philosophy and technical innovations. His candid discussion with Loth reveals the challenges and triumphs behind Graham's distinctive chronographs, particularly the functional design of their signature lever system. This article provides valuable context for understanding Graham's unique position in the watch industry.

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. . . and we met up for an all too brief get-together in West Hollywood yesterday at the Rainbow Bar & Grill.  Eric wanted to share a few of the latest offerings from Graham, and I wanted to learn more about his firm.  At one time, Graham produced a foudroyante, a genre in which I have some interest.  I'd perused the Graham website the night before but couldn't find evidence of the one model I knew anything about, so I asked for the background story. 

Eric was exceptionally candid on the subject.  The Foudroyante was the watch he felt had elevated the presence of Graham amongst collectors, and in a sense was responsible for establishing the reputation of the company.  That said, the watch was not a complete success in the field.  Half were returned for service issues.  Perhaps this wouldn't have been such a critical issue for a larger company, but Graham-London currently produces approximately only eight thousand watches annually, and presumably less back then, so the expenses likely represented a significant burden at the time.  

I learned that Eric had a long established relationship with the industry going back decades.  Originally a metallurgist, he worked for AP amongst others before starting Graham with a partner.  I asked about the origins of the brand, to which Eric replied that it was essentially modeled on the personage of George Graham, who was held in such high esteem both personally and professionally that he was interred in Westminster Abbey.  Graham (George Graham, the watchmaker) is credited with having invented the chronograph, which explains the concentration of that complication in their collection.    

Then, I asked about the levers.

smile

Now, I've seen a few Grahams previously, but had never actually handled one until yesterday.  One of two watches Eric brought along was a new limited edition of the Chronofighter Oversize, dedicated to the Baja 1000 off-road race . . . 








. . . one of which will be presented to the winner of this year's competition.

Fortuitously, I happened to be wearing my Zenith El Primero yesterday, and, moreover, on my right wrist.  You'll notice that the Chronofighter Oversize has its crown and pushers on the left, with the lever over the start/stop pusher placed in the proper natural location for thumb actuation (assuming a right-handed user, and wearing on the left wrist).  I strapped the Graham onto my left wrist, fixed my gaze, and depressed the lever.  After several moments, I pressed the lever again, stopping the chronograph, and then re-set the movement using my second finger, which was also in a perfectly natural, relaxed position.  I repeated the process a few times.  Then I performed the same exercise on my Zenith.

A slight smile must've crossed my face then; if Eric is reading this, perhaps he'll confirm.

I could've exclaimed "Eureka" at that moment.  The characteristic levers of every Graham chronograph are not there merely to enhance visual appeal.  They impart a meaningful enhancement to chronograph operation, providing surer actuation as well as tactile feedback.  Little wonder the referees in the RBS 6 Nations championship rugby series use Grahams in their official capacity, as they're able to place a greater level of reliance on their use in the heat of a match over traditional chronographs.

The other model in attendance yesterday was the Geo Graham tourbillon . . . 









. . . in 18 kt pink gold, and equipped with a retrograde moon phase indicator.  

These images of the Baja 1000 limited edition Chronofighter Oversize are the first published on the Internet; our thanks to Eric for allowing us this exclusive.  

Cordially,

Art 



About the De Bethune DB25 Ref. DB25

De Bethune DB25 Reference DB25

The DB25 represents De Bethune's entry in the 44.5mm manual-wind category, distinguished by its silver dial configuration within the DB25 series. This reference launched in 2006 and continues the brand's approach to contemporary haute horlogerie complications.

The 44.5mm case is crafted from 18k white gold with a fixed bezel and sapphire crystal. Water resistance extends to 30 meters. The manual-winding caliber DB2105 movement provides a substantial 120-hour power reserve. The watch features a leather strap attachment.

This reference appeals to collectors seeking De Bethune's technical approach to timekeeping in a precious metal case. The extended power reserve and manual-wind operation position it for enthusiasts who appreciate hands-on interaction with their timepieces. The 44.5mm sizing places it in contemporary proportions within the independent watchmaking segment.

Specifications

Caliber
DB2105
Case
18k White Gold
Diameter
44.5 mm
Dial
Silver
Water Resist.
30m
Crystal
Sapphire

Key Points from the Discussion

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The Discussion
AN
andrewluff
Sep 9, 2012

Very interesting, the oversize is quite nice and the strap looks cool too. I think the tourbillon looks quite cheap looking in my opinion... Thanks for sharing, Andrew

TA
takashi78
Sep 10, 2012

Is that a CF pusher? Or just carbon "look" ?

DR
Dr No
Sep 10, 2012

. . . and the bezel is ceramic, with a DLC treatment to the case. Quite a blend of materials, but hardly surprising, given Eric's background as a metallurgist.

JE
jek
Sep 11, 2012

Chronofighter is just awesome! So so so Graham! Thanks for sharing Jek

DR
Dr No
Sep 11, 2012

. . . on my slender wrist, both physically and aesthetically, and chronograph operation is absolutely first-rate.

JE
jek
Sep 13, 2012

I think it will "fall" on my wrist soon, this or the Amazonia Green! ;)

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