D. Dornblüth & Sohne 09.0 Jasmin Review

AndrewD · 2013-12-08T03:09:41Z

AndrewD reviews the D. Dornblüth & Sohne 09.0 Jasmin. Discover this limited edition German watch with a vintage ETA movement and unique design.

AndrewD

WPS member · Independents forum

16 replies9148 views34 photos

AndrewD presents a detailed review of the D. Dornblüth & Sohne 09.0 Jasmin, a limited edition timepiece named after Dirk Dornblüth's youngest daughter. This article explores the watch's traditional German characteristics, its unique movement assembled from new old stock ETA parts, and its distinctive design inspired by ship deck clocks.

Dieter Dornblüth had been repairing watches in Kalbe (located in Saxony-Anhalt in the former German Democratic Republic in Eastern Germany) since the 1960’s. Dieter’s son, Dirk, graduated from watch making school in 1985 and, with his father, formed the D. Dornblüth & Sohne Manufacture in the early 2000’s. Their first watch was the 99.0.

Dieter retired in 2008 and Dirk has continued the family business, producing watches that emphasize traditional German characteristics (such as three-quarter plates, hand-engraved balance cocks and screwed chatons) and dials that trace their heritage back to ship deck clocks: functional, somewhat austere and always exceptionally legible.

The 09 Jasmin is named after Dirk’s youngest daughter and was made in a total run of 75 pieces.

The movement is assembled from new old stock parts from an ETA Calibre 1120 from the 1950’s. These movements were obtained from the collection of Helmut Sinn, the fighter pilot who founded the Sinn watch company in 1956 and who was an avid watch collector.

The 09 Jasmin is made in the Chronometer style with a large subseconds dial at 6 o’clock and hand-polished, heat blued steel hands tapering to railroad minute markers. The dial is made from sterling silver and there is a striking central solar guilloche and printed blue Arabic numerals.

The case measures 34.5mm in diameter, but is 9.1mm thick which adds significantly to the ‘presence’ of the watch on the wrist. Surfaces are both brushed and polished and the case is double screwed.

The large signed crown makes winding easy.

The slightly convex front sapphire crystal is 1.2mm thick and antireflective, courtesy of a coating on the inner surface.

The packaging is minimalistic but beautifully done and you can use the case to display the watch as a desk clock.

Nice details ...

The 09 Jasmin was available in stainless steel with different dial options: a uniform grainy silvered surface [Model (1) ST], rhombe guilloche in the centre of the black dial [Model (2R) ST] matched with painted white hands, and this model with a central solar guilloche and blued numerals and hands [Model (3S) ST]. An 18K RG case was also available [Model (2R) RG] with the dark rhombe guilloche and white hands.

While it has the ergonomics of a deck clock with superb legibility, the central sunburst guilloche and blued hands and numerals give it a more formal appearance.

The movement and case back is engraved with the edition number.

The Cal. 1120 is a manual wind movement measuring 27 x 3.8 mm, has 18 rubies, and beats at 18,000 vph (2.5 Hz) with a power reserve of 48 hours. The rose gold plated movement can be seen through the exhibition sapphire case back which has an antireflective coating on the inner surface. The movement is of the three-quarter plate design, providing additional stability and robustness. There are some lovely traditional finishes including screwed chatons with flat polished, heat blued screws with bevelled edges, frosted main plates, engraved balance cock and double sunburst finish on the ratchet and crown wheels. The escapement features a swan’s neck regulator and a glucydur screwed balance wheel on a Nivarox-1 spring.

The original Dornbluth strap was too long and I had an ABP crocodile strap made to length in a deep blue to match the blued steel hands ...

Engraved tang buckle.

Detailed work from ABP in Paris ...

On the wrist ...

More packaging details ...

One of the things I like is the continuity in style across the Dornblüth range. This 34mm Jasmin is perfectly matched by the 42 x11.5mm 99.1; a real father and son combination, or perhaps husband and wife. The guilloche and blued strap and dial details make it a somewhat sombre but very functional ladies watch.

Dirk replaced the dial under warranty due to the seconds hand scratching the dial. But he kindly provided the old dial to complete the history of the watch. It provides an insight into its robust construction.

The D. Dornblüth & Sohne Manufacture produces between 100 and 150 watches per year and has 4 watchmakers. A great way to access independent watchmaking and excellent value.

Andrew

This message has been edited by AndrewD on 2013-12-08 11:54:05

Key Points from the Discussion

The 09.0 Jasmin's 34.5mm diameter is considered too small for some wrists, though Dornblüth & Sohne offers larger watches (38mm to 42mm) with a similar aesthetic.
The watch's 9.1mm thickness, combined with its 34.5mm diameter, creates a notable 'presence' on the wrist, which some find appealing while others question if it appears too thick for its size.
The use of new old stock ETA Calibre 1120 movements from the 1950s, sourced from Helmut Sinn's collection, is highlighted as an impressive and creative 'face lift' of vintage parts.
A fellow collector shares that they gifted an identical configuration of the caliber to their daughter, indicating a personal connection and appreciation for the movement.
The author clarifies that the first Dornblüth movement developed by the Manufacture was the Cal. 99.2, correcting a detail in the original post.
The watch's design, particularly the dial with its sunburst guillochage and blued hands, is highly praised for its beauty and delicate appearance.

The Discussion

Ares501 - Mr Green

Dec 8, 2013

and very nice watch Sincerest congrats on both counts dear Andrew Sincerely Damjan

Rubar

Dec 8, 2013

Thank you for review and nice pictures. Do not often review of this model. If I may,a few insignificant remarks. Front sapphire crystal is 1.0 mm thick as mentioned in the catalogue and were the second model from D.Dornblüth & Sohn. The first model were One question more. Was the case back in the kit or you asked Dirk replace it? Thanks!

nilomis

Dec 8, 2013

Andrew, As I mentioned on the Wrist Scan results, I'm impressed by the dial and now with the movement. Great idea to grab and vintage ETA and do an impressive face lift. Nice match between the past and future. My double congratulations, Nilo

glickman

Dec 8, 2013

I gave the identical configuration of that caliber to my daughter for an important birthday in 2011, and the two of us were just admiring it together earlier today!

Mally

Dec 8, 2013

& an excellent review Andrew. I've mentioned before, it's a pleasure to deal with Dirk. Best Wishes Mally

Sandgroper

Dec 8, 2013

This watch is absolutely my cuppa tea, a tad small for me though;) Love it, the dial with the sunburst guillochage, the blue heated hands. Lovely! Fits perfectly the delicate wrist of the lady:) Cheers Francois

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