De Bethune DB28 Steel Wheels: Review

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Cozmopak's journey to consolidate his watch collection to a select five pieces offers a compelling look into the motivations behind such a significant horological decision. His admiration for the De Bethune DB28 Steel Wheels, a watch he considers a pinnacle of modern independent watchmaking, provides a focal point for discussing the brand's unique appeal and its place in a curated collection. This article explores why the DB28 Steel Wheels continues to captivate collectors, even amidst brand acquisitions and evolving market dynamics.

For some reason, my original post was corrupted. So I will post again with an additional image!

I’m in the process of actively consolidating my collection, and will probably end with a collection of no more than 5 watches. This is both financially and philosophically motivated. As I curate my ever dwindling collection, my mind is pointed to the past, and to the watches that I admired years ago.

Among them is the DB28 Steel Wheels, a watch that perfectly embodies the whimsical and technical nature of De Bethune. I was disappointed when WatchBox acquired DeBethune, and felt as though some their romanticism had been lost.

Try as I might, I simply couldn’t put De Bethune out of my mind. And to me, the Steel Wheels is one of the pinnacles of modern independent watchmaking.

Whereas many design-forward watches are aesthetically beautiful, not all of them display the watchmaking prowess of De Bethune. Everything from the winding feel to the accuracy of this watch is top notch.

About the De Bethune DB28 Ref. DB28

De Bethune DB28 Reference DB28

The DB28 represents De Bethune's approach to contemporary haute horlogerie, featuring the brand's distinctive floating lug design within a 42.6mm case format. This reference showcases the manufacture's technical capabilities through its extended power reserve specification and proprietary movement caliber.

The 42.6mm titanium case houses the manual-winding caliber DB2115, delivering a 120-hour power reserve. The silver dial is protected by sapphire crystal, while the characteristic floating lugs define the case architecture. Water resistance extends to 30 meters, and the watch is completed with a leather strap.

This reference appeals to collectors focused on independent Swiss manufacture capabilities and contemporary case design. The DB28 represents De Bethune's technical approach to manual-winding movements, particularly notable for collectors interested in extended power reserve complications. Production commenced in 2010, positioning this reference within the brand's modern catalog offerings.

Specifications

Caliber: DB2115

Case: Titanium

Diameter: 42.6 mm

Dial: Silver

Water Resist.: 30m

Crystal: Sapphire

Key Points from the Discussion

The DB28 Steel Wheels often exceeds expectations in person, with its unique design elements like the revolving moon, floating lugs, and blued hands making a strong impression on first viewing.
The DB28 Steel Wheels, particularly the XP variant, has demonstrated strong performance in the secondary market, achieving some of the highest realized prices for De Bethune at auction.
Consolidating a collection to a smaller, curated number of watches, such as five or seven, is a common philosophical approach among collectors to ensure each piece receives adequate wrist time and appreciation.
While some collectors express reservations about WatchBox's acquisition of De Bethune, it's important to remember that such financial backing often saved independent brands from potential bankruptcy, stabilizing their future and the secondary market.
Many collectors consider a De Bethune, specifically the DB28, an essential component of any high-end, consolidated watch collection.
Collectors are keen to understand the specific models that make up a highly curated, consolidated collection, often speculating on other independent heavyweights like MB&F and Kari Voutilainen.

The Discussion

Cozmopak

Dec 13, 2023

I can only open them through the Unanswered Responses pathway. Has anyone else experienced similar issues? When I try to open the original post this is what I get: Oops an error has occurred! A malformed request has been logged.

Cozmopak

Dec 13, 2023

Didn't realize it was in the title! Weird glitch!

als1678

Dec 13, 2023

As for the watch - yes, one of the best. I understand your feelings about watchbox but remember how De Bethune was on the verge of bankruptcy before their financial backing. The secondary market was also in a terrible state which made it hard for collectors to get onboard even if they loved the designs.

Dec 13, 2023

You have all of my grails 😂

hora12reborn

Dec 13, 2023

to which models your collection will dwindle down: RG microrotor RG LO MB&F PC DB 28 Steel KV Chronometre 27 ?🤔

Aquaracer1

Dec 13, 2023

I am at 5 watches. It’s a good number for me!

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About the De Bethune DB28 Ref. DB28

Specifications

Key Points from the Discussion

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