De Bethune DB27, DB28, DB28ST, DB25 Hands-On
Independents

De Bethune DB27, DB28, DB28ST, DB25 Hands-On

By Mark in Paris · Feb 7, 2013 · 15 replies
Mark in Paris
WPS member · Independents forum
15 replies3356 views12 photos
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Mark in Paris shares his hands-on impressions of several De Bethune models, including the DB27, DB28, and DB28ST, after trying them in person. His detailed observations offer valuable insights into the watches' aesthetics, wearability, and unique features, particularly focusing on lug size and balance wheel design. This post provides a rare opportunity to compare these independent masterpieces side-by-side through a collector's lens.

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I've been trying several watches since the last 4 months and, following Oliver and Marcus' posts after the last SiHH, I wished to share them with you as many are not seen that often.


I could wear the DB27, DB28 and DB28ST in Paris, last November. It was my first time in the metal with the DB28ST and the DB27. Very nice experience and I could really make my own opinion on the small size lugs (equiped on the DB27).

It modifies deeply the visual look on the watches: it fits my 16mm wrist better even if longer lugs make the watch (DB28) purer and maybe more balanced.

Hence, if I was considering to purchase a DB28, I don't know wich lugs size I would choose.

- The DB27:

As with the DB28, I love DB's titanium polished finishing. This watch is beautiful and was needed in the collection as a 1st price kind of DB28, next to the 1st price DB25.
It has a silicon balance wheel but this one is tapped, whereas the DB28's one is a full disk. As far as I'm concerned, I prefer the later much more.



















- The DB28:

I must say I prefer the normal hands without the gold insert (reserved for one of the 2 Aiguille d'or LE)











- The DB28 ST:

These pics don't do it justice but it's a true beauty in the metal. Bigger than a normal DB28 though.











- DB25 Starysky:

I could also try the DB25 Starysky not long ago and it is still as beautiful as in my memories. I like this slightly thicker case than the DB25 Power reserve.
Those hands are trully awsome (curved), don't you think?











- DB25 Power reserve Titanium dial:

I could finally try this one which was provided with a grey (with a perfect touch of purple) strap. This is a fantastic matching and also modifies the dial's appearance. Not the same watch anymore. You won't see this really much on the pictures but trust me it is something to test in the flesh when considering the strap for this watch.











That's all folks!

Thanks for watching and don't hesitate to discuss smile

Cheers,

Mark
(formerly Borรฉale)

About the De Bethune DB25 Ref. DB25

De Bethune DB25 Reference DB25

The DB25 represents De Bethune's entry in the 44.5mm manual-wind category, distinguished by its silver dial configuration within the DB25 series. This reference launched in 2006 and continues the brand's approach to contemporary haute horlogerie complications.

The 44.5mm case is crafted from 18k white gold with a fixed bezel and sapphire crystal. Water resistance extends to 30 meters. The manual-winding caliber DB2105 movement provides a substantial 120-hour power reserve. The watch features a leather strap attachment.

This reference appeals to collectors seeking De Bethune's technical approach to timekeeping in a precious metal case. The extended power reserve and manual-wind operation position it for enthusiasts who appreciate hands-on interaction with their timepieces. The 44.5mm sizing places it in contemporary proportions within the independent watchmaking segment.

Specifications

Caliber
DB2105
Case
18k White Gold
Diameter
44.5 mm
Dial
Silver
Water Resist.
30m
Crystal
Sapphire

Key Points from the Discussion

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The Discussion
FR
Fricks
Feb 7, 2013
Superb post Mark!!

The db27 is a perfect match to your shirt and sweater! Looks the nicest among all pics. Too bad you didn't try the skybridge. That is the one that looks the most appealing to me. The db27 with the salmon dial looks like the nicest one but the one you posted is the safer bet i guess. But when you go De Bethune, its not to play it safe. Lovely post! Thanks

MA
Mark in Paris
Feb 8, 2013
Didn't do it on purpose but I agree!

It fitted very well indeed :) I don't know why but this DB27 is very attractive. As for the Skybridge, I tried these watches in November in Paris and couldn't attend the SiHH, so I didn't see it yet, but looking forward to ;) Thanks for your input Fricks. Cheers, Mark

SM
small-luxury-world
Feb 8, 2013
Mark, Mark, Mark ...

next time I expect you to share with us - earlier :-) Thanks a lot! Oliver

HO
Hororgasm
Feb 8, 2013
I was too slow on no1 of the TitanHawk...regrets

Thanks for the wonderfully crisp pictures of the DBs. Any favorites? Best, Horo

MA
Mark in Paris
Feb 8, 2013
Your question leads to torture

as I really don't know which one to put in front line. The normal DB28 (not blued) black or silver dial: for its design, uniqueness and silicon-disk balance wheel living like heart beats ? A balanced and beautifully finished silver dial DB27 ? The Starysky ? Hmmm I guess today could be the DB28, but tomorrow ? I'm curious to know what's your favorite Horo ? Cheers, Mark

MO
moc
Feb 18, 2013
Get another number Horo!!!

You need to beef up your DB collection.... see you soon? Mo

Available on the marketplace

2021 De Bethune Quetzalcoatl DB25AWY 44MM White Gold Case Gold Dial Box Papers
155,000 USD
Pre-owned - Good · US
View all De Bethune on the marketplace →De Bethune DB25 Starry Varius Manual Titanium Mens Strap Watch DB25VTIS3
79,950 USD
Pre-owned - Excellent · US
De Bethune DB25 Starry Varius
78,000 USD
Pre-owned - Excellent · US
De Bethune DB25Moon Phase Manual 44mm White Gold Mens Strap Watch DB25LWS1V1
64,950 USD
Pre-owned - Excellent · HK

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