De Bethune DB25WS3 Boutique Visit

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Small-luxury-world, along with Magnus and Oliver, offers a detailed exploration of De Bethune's Geneva boutique, focusing on the DB25WS3. This post provides an in-depth look at the brand's distinctive design language and technical innovations, particularly the unique triple pare-chute movement. It serves as an excellent primer for understanding De Bethune's philosophy before delving into their latest novelties.

Magnus & Oliver decided to visit their (new) boutique in Geneva.

The visit was not planned in advance, but circumstances at SIHH gave us some extra time.

I hope from the following pictures you can imagine our pleasure - it was a feast for the eyes and the perfect preparation for our appointment to see their novelties the coming day.

For such a small brand/boutique there have been quite a few watches on display and we took pictures of some of our favorites.

The DB 25 collection is one of them and we would like to start with the DB25WS3 :

The case is well made and shows lots of De Bethune DNA. Just look at the lugs, the horns (from the early days) are still there.

The back shows the calibre DB 2024, a mechanical self-winding movement with its unique (unique for De Bethune) triple pare-chute.
The latter protects the heart of the movement thanks to a titanium bridge secured by a spring-based system.

The first time I tried it on my (Oliver) wrist was at a PuristS GTG in 2009 - still have the picture on my iPhone

Still think it is a modern and very special watch, even when it is some years old now. The blued titanium microlight dial shows some great details
and depending on the light it looks quite different, but always beautiful.

Magnus:

Let me chime in here. For starters, this is an easy one for me. Blue is my absolute favourite colour, not only when it comes to watches (well, watch dials). Blue is a universal colour but far from boring and mundane.

With the DB25WS3 De Bethune created quite an outstanding watch in many regards. It is a watch that exemplifies watchmaking coherence throughout the timepiece. Movement construction, design and finishing match with the outer appearance of the watch. Do you think the word thoroughbred is adequate? I guess so!

Here we have remarkable unique construction as far as automatic movements are concerned. This uniqueness however displays a rare internal logic of its constituents. Nothing here gives the impression of difference implemented for the sake of difference. In contrast, the pieces displays the product of intense knowledge and thinking.

This also applies to the dial and the case. The mastery of all three dimensions is a characteristic De Bethune developed around the time they introduced their first movement with the heart-shaped main plate (and the DB15 watch). The company developed a distinctive style that emphasises both surface and depth.

The latter is already well demonstrated by the images above. Thus I'd like to highlight the casework:

Isn't that sexy ? I mean, there is a small manufacture which developed an extraordinary and immensely fascinating basic mechanism, and it manages to wrap it in a case that practically serves it up on a silver plate. These delicate lugs, like subtle handles to carefully carry the royal load just like on a palanquin... The whole case makes me want to caress it without break in order to experiences its tactile qualities... I better stop here!

And strap it on:

Even better - this is just made for me! nothing, really nothing is in the way between me, the watch and my pleasure of wearing it. Not technical or aesthetic gripe, no fatigue. Just pure joy!

DB25LRSIVI

The same case as before, but with a more classical silver-toned hand-guilloché dial and an additional (almost mesmerizing) moon.

On the back is the calibre DB 2105 a mechanical hand-wound movement with 6 days power reserve shown.

Also you can see the back of the leather strap, which looks great and feels just so smooth. For sure it is not a bargain (as well), but it feels perfect.

Perfect on the wrist ...

... and a pleasure to look at.

Magnus:

Also an extraordinary piece, but for me the DB25S3 wins. The more technical dial of the latter is just the icing on the cake in combination with this - for De Bethune - rather classical case design. I would have, however, a hard time to choose between the automatic vs. the handwound movement...

DB25LWS3V2

Most of you know that watch from our fellow Purist - Mo. Nonetheless it is worth to look at it again and again. Isn´t it?

Magnus:

For me a watch for specific moments. For private pleasure, while listening to music or enjoying art. I do not see this on my wrist while working. Or during meeting with friends. I would be too egoistic to share the joy. Here again the colour makes a real difference, as the hand-blued dial has its own depth and such does not need the vertical differentiation of the DB25S3.

If I had to choose... honestly, I could not predict the outcome!

DB27 TitanHawk Silver

An 'entry level' offering that cuts no corners in terms of technology and design. Once more the company has demonstrated its understanding of levels. A look at the dial, imagine how tightly the months hand sits on the dial surface, and how dynamically the hours and minutes hands seem to jump out of the centre basin.

It is a really everyday watch, ultra-light with case and lugs made of fully-polished titanium:

A real feast here are the optically extraordinary but on the other hand extremely functional and comfortable case. The floating lugs are another example on how carefully De Bethune thinks about space. They allow the watch to assume the shape of the wrist (look how perfectly the lower rim of the lugs reflects the curvature of my wrist). This is functional aesthetics!

Wearing it the idea of a pocket watch converted to the wristwatch comes to mind. The winding crown at 12, and the lugs which seem separate but well integrated (if this is understandable). For me the most discrete way to wear a De Bethune (and I mean not only to the public, but also to the wearer him- respectively herself.

A quite dynamic watch, and one that certainly withstands many tough situations. Probably a true companion for life! Is there more to ask?

Stay tuned, there will be more to see from ...

... those very passionated people at De Bethune

Oliver & Magnus

This message has been edited by small-luxury-world on 2013-02-06 13:29:18

About the De Bethune DB25 Ref. DB25

De Bethune DB25 Reference DB25

The DB25 represents De Bethune's entry in the 44.5mm manual-wind category, distinguished by its silver dial configuration within the DB25 series. This reference launched in 2006 and continues the brand's approach to contemporary haute horlogerie complications.

The 44.5mm case is crafted from 18k white gold with a fixed bezel and sapphire crystal. Water resistance extends to 30 meters. The manual-winding caliber DB2105 movement provides a substantial 120-hour power reserve. The watch features a leather strap attachment.

This reference appeals to collectors seeking De Bethune's technical approach to timekeeping in a precious metal case. The extended power reserve and manual-wind operation position it for enthusiasts who appreciate hands-on interaction with their timepieces. The 44.5mm sizing places it in contemporary proportions within the independent watchmaking segment.

Specifications

Caliber: DB2105

Case: 18k White Gold

Diameter: 44.5 mm

Dial: Silver

Water Resist.: 30m

Crystal: Sapphire

Key Points from the Discussion

The DB25 design, including its distinctive lugs, crown, and case, is a significant draw for many collectors, with various complications and dial versions appealing to different tastes.
De Bethune is a brand that often requires time and exposure to multiple models for its unique aesthetic and technical philosophy to be fully appreciated.
The DB25 automatic is frequently cited as the watch that introduced many collectors to De Bethune, maintaining its appeal years after its release.
De Bethune is recognized for its consistent innovation and ability to produce new designs that captivate the watch community annually.
The blued titanium microlight dial of the DB25WS3 is particularly praised for its dynamic appearance under different lighting conditions.
The brand's attention to detail extends to improvements in their straps, enhancing the overall ownership experience.

The Discussion

moc

Feb 6, 2013

You guys put on a show,the elegance and beauty of the picture and the passionate text are just pure melody to my eyes and ears. My fav must be the pic of the DB 25 automatic,the watch that made me fall in love with De Bethune,a watch that after years is still a uber cool watch,one that I will consider,still makes me happy. Its hard to choose a fav De Bethune,but your picture of the 25 must be one of the most beautiful I ve ever seen. Congrats on a wonderful post. Mo

Ed. W

Feb 6, 2013

Where is the boutique?

Mark in Paris

Feb 7, 2013

As Mo said, I felt in love with the brand because of one watch. But in my case it is the DB25 style design, generally speaking, not one version in particular. The lugs, the crown, the case ... I like them all, Mo's starysky, the QP, the tourbillon, the power reserves ... maybe the one I don't like that much is the normal moonphase only DB25 as I find it unbalanced with all this visual weight at 12 o'clock. Very personnal as I think this watch is very popular and sells very well. And yes ... your

Fricks

Feb 7, 2013

This brand is start to slowly grow on me. Do you have pics of the skybridge or db27 with other dials? Never took interest in that brand before, so weird, how all of a sudden i start to find them really nice. Thanks for the great post.

Ornatus-Mundi

Feb 7, 2013

next week (time permitting)! Glad you liked it! Indeed, my own feeling regarding De Bethune was not an instant love affair, but benevolence and interest from the start, cultivated over a long time and then suddenly wooosh! and you're done. I think this is a brand that really needs to be understood and this takes some time and several models to be appreciated. Magnus P.S.: My own problem is that it made wooosh! with me now...

small-luxury-world

Feb 8, 2013

But now I have to take care of my day job :-) Cheers, Oliver

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About the De Bethune DB25 Ref. DB25

Specifications

Key Points from the Discussion

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