Independents
small-luxury-world provides an in-depth look at De Bethune's novelties from Baselworld 2012, highlighting the brand's rapid ascent in haute horology. This post delves into De Bethune's unique blend of innovation, design, and traditional craftsmanship, showcasing why they earned the 'Aiguille d´Or'.
Founded in 2002, almost 10 patents, more than 10 calibres and quite a few more than 10 world’s premiere innovations. Conception, R&D, prototyping, manufacture, finishing, assembling and testing – everything is done in-house, today. They started with a slightly different design and movements from Venus, Enicar and others. Design – more classic in the past, but you can still see their typical/uncommon shape for the lugs in the latest models.
Their current products are innovative and advanced in both technology & design, yet also incorporate traditional elements to bridge the gap between the past and the future. In 2011 they have been awarded at the Geneva Watchmaking Grand Prix with the “Aiguille d´Or”.
The whole story is even more impressive if you think they do less than 200 watches a year (at least that is what we have been told).
So, let´s have a look what we were shown in Basel:
Dress Watch Collection
DB28ST
The new dead-seconds tourbillon with its open-worked dial has one of the most distinctive DB looks. Its rocket-shaped movement bridge as well as the flexible lug system have evolved into widely recognisable DB features.
Case: 43mm; polished Grade 5 titanium
Movement: cal. DB 2119, manual-winding movement; hours, minutes and seconds; dead seconds tourbillon; 4-day power reserve
Some of the movement features have been shown in the stunning DB25T before. This time it comes in the case of the DB28 collection and the tourbillon can be seen easily, to mention only a few details.
The flame-blued dead seconds hand is eye-catching and even more in reality while moving.
On the wrist it is comfortable.
If we turn it around we instantly admire a sculpture of a movement. The Seconde Morte mechanism with tourbillon ( 36,000 vibrations per hour; power reserve: 4 days 
is clearly closely related to the one in the DB28ST. Is it a problem to
see that kind of beauty over and over again? No, not at all 
"The solid gold dial of these timepieces has been hand-engraved by Michèle Rothen, and enhanced by 31 flame-blued steel inserts. The hour circle displays the numerals of Mayan numbering system, while the inner ring presents the 20 glyphs of divinities, animals and sacred objects representing the various days of the calendar.
The dial centre features the baktun, a period glyph used in particular for calculating the “Long Count” and comprising 144,000 days.
In order to highlight the subtle visual equilibrium of the dial, the hands are made in sapphire rimmed with blued steel according to an exclusive De Bethune procedure."
De Bethune's approach to watchmaking is incredible and outstanding. Approaches like this are hard to imagine under the roof of any of the big watch groups. Especially when we look at some hands, cases, dials … from some of the big brands today, DB´s attention to the detail is “crazy”. Big brands changed their hands and saved about ten times in costs, compared to earlier ones … Is there a business case behind De Bethune, even when there watches are far from being cheap? We don´t know, but the result is impressive – for sure. The worst thing we can say about DB is that they change their hands, balance wheels … faster as one is able to place his order. It is almost impossible to track their innovations, even when we talk about the same reference.
Magnus
De Bethune is a manufacture exactly to my taste - technically and aesthetically innovating, surprising but yet so humble. Real watchmakers with a clear vision and the power to deliver. In terms of design it is an up and down for me, but not because the designs are more or less well done, but more because one design speaks more to me than the other.
What
sets De Bethune apart from other manufactures is their apt blend of
aesthetics and technology. What I mean is that however you look at their
timepieces the outer appearance matches the watchmaking masterpiece
inside. There is a rare harmony in appearance and content that makes a
De Bethune instantly recognisable, and yet each watch may differ
tremendously from the other in terms of aesthetics. What a feat!
I also would like to mention that while they constantly try to push the horological borders with new constructions and materials (reference is made to the escapement, for example) but at the same time strive to perfect the traditional arts. The DB25T is a case in point. Featuring an elaborate tourbillon escapement with modern silicium parts mated to a more restrained case and dial. The dial then is entirely traditional with a sterling silver chapter ring and a heat-blued steel dial. It may not look so but to be able to hand-manufacture an evenly heat-blued piece with a large surface like in this case is a most remarkable feat.
It is for these reasons that I select the DB25T as my personal favourite for 2012. It is the essential De Bethune watch for me. It speaks all its dialects fluently!
Oliver
It was not the first time
that I had a look at their watches, but it doesn´t happen every day -
unfortunately. Each time I look at their pieces I get closer to the brand and
especially when it comes to design they are getting better and better. I like
the uncompromising approach even when I was not totally impressed by the
finishing we saw at some of the novelties. At the end of the day the people
behind DeBethune are humans as well and that is ok
DB27 Titan Hawk - what
I like on this one is the style and the "affordability", but the small
window on the back offers only a very limited view on the movement. The
latter would be a show-stopper for me. If I would go for DB I want the real thing, I want to see it all - the full beauty
Some of the DB 28 versions available are to die for and when I put them on my wrist it is always hard to give them back. But does that kind of "Rock´n Roll" fit to my lifestyle - longterm? I hate to ask questiones like this, but in real life we all have our budgets ...
At the end I agree (once more ) with Magnus, the DB25T
is THE one if you can do it only once. There is "Rock´n Roll", classic,
science, romance ... in the details. I guess one would get lot´s of
compliments from totally different kind of people, even when most of
them have no idea what it is. Would love to admire all the details day
by day, to take 1000´s of pictures ... and on top comes the wearabilty.
Only my piggy bank ... I have to work on this :-(
Magnus & Oliver
De Bethune DB28 Reference DB28
The DB28 represents De Bethune's approach to contemporary haute horlogerie, featuring the brand's distinctive floating lug design within a 42.6mm case format. This reference showcases the manufacture's technical capabilities through its extended power reserve specification and proprietary movement caliber.
The 42.6mm titanium case houses the manual-winding caliber DB2115, delivering a 120-hour power reserve. The silver dial is protected by sapphire crystal, while the characteristic floating lugs define the case architecture. Water resistance extends to 30 meters, and the watch is completed with a leather strap.
This reference appeals to collectors focused on independent Swiss manufacture capabilities and contemporary case design. The DB28 represents De Bethune's technical approach to manual-winding movements, particularly notable for collectors interested in extended power reserve complications. Production commenced in 2010, positioning this reference within the brand's modern catalog offerings.
and this report is particularly appealing. Thanks to you both for sharing your point of views and your feelings about these watches. The DB28 ST (Second Tourbillon) is, for me, the one I would take from 2012 novelties (By the way, I thought that the DB25T was a 2011 watch, was I wrong ?). For me De Bethune's style is also deeply colored with futuristic designs and thus the DB28 case and the most beautiful opened dial of the 28 ST is the one I'll put in 1st position among all their offering. But
which seem to be nurtured by a deep knowledge of the brand. Could you expand a bit on why you are more d'accord with the small window on the DB27 but would have reservations to see such on a DB25 (assuming we are talking about the simple handwind model)? Thanks a lot, Magnus
it's a question of shape and theme. But this is only my own opinion and, hence, remains subjective of course. For me, the DB28 collection is more futuristic and also its case is quite round (quite distinguishing from the lugs). On the other hand, the DB25 is a modernized version of a pocket watch (kind of neo-retro trend), which style is older looking compared to a DB28 (D. Zanetta is more involved in the style design and is, from what I heard, an expert in pocket watches). Thus, when I saw the
for me. Watch shapes/themes and their respective case backs & decoration themes - this triplicate is new territory for me (I mean the combination of all three). I will have to think about this a bit. BTW, also Daos made a comment in that direction in her response to François-Xavier's presentation of the Roger Dubuis Velvet collection. She criticised the design of the rotor in a ladies' watch. Thanks for this eye-opener! Cheers, Magnus
Wow, those eye candies - we will never have enough of those. Thanks Oliver and Magnus for bringing us this write-up. De Bethune is definitely the brand to look forward to in the next decade and more. Everything they have done so far is nothing short of stunning, and in such short amount of time, established themselves in a competitive field of Independents. The "Golden Hand" was truly well deserved. Thanks for the insight into their current line-up. I am very impressed with some of these, the DB
has delivered it once more! Just perfect review. Awesome pictures lot of insight and honest opinion about my favorite Independent manufacture And the pieces .... the pieces...... ahhhh the pieces :) Thank you very much Best Damjan
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