De Bethune DB25 Classique Review

SJX offers a detailed review of the De Bethune DB25, a watch that marks the brand's return to classical aesthetics after a period of modern designs. He highlights the evolution of the DB25 from its Basel debut, focusing on significant improvements like the intuitive linear power reserve display. SJX also praises De Bethune's commitment to continuous innovation and exceptional in-house craftsmanship.

De Bethune began with watches that were heavily reminiscent of classical European pocket watches, sporting guilloche dials, Roman numerals and blued steel hands; though the brand’s “bullet” lugs were highly original. Of late the brand has done an about-face, unveiling a slew of modern looking watches like the ambitiously named Maxichrono, Super Sport and Power. But with the DB25 De Bethune has once again the brand has returned to classicism, and the result is stunning.

The De Bethune DB25 Classique was first shown at Basel last year, but has since undergone several tweaks resulting in the prototype you see here. One of the most obvious changes was to the power reserve: previously it was a disc indicator that was difficult to comprehend; it is now a much more intuitive linear display which leaves the dial much cleaner looking as well.

The fact that the DB25 has changed significantly since its premiere at Basel last year is typical of De Bethune, all of its watches are constantly improved – that can be a bad thing as the Maxichrono has been a work in progress for several years now but each year it seems to get more intriguing (and expensive). Even watches that are in the catalogue and already sold at dealers are fitted with new components as they are invented, for example most of the collection now utilises the in-house balance invented by Denis Flageollet.

As with all De Bethunes, the quality of the dial and hands is top notch – the fineness of the guilloche and the precision of the printing are truly excellent. When I saw the first prototypes of the DB25 at Basel last year I wrote that the dial quality was “incredible”, that has only gotten better with the final prototype. In-house is overused and meaningless most of the time, but De Bethune does its hands and dials itself and that is a remarkable achievement given the phenomenal level of quality.

The hours and minutes are on a convex track surrounding a guilloche centre portion, reminiscent of the DB15 perpetual, which gives the dial depth, leaving the otherwise empty dial looking far more attractive. Another version of the DB25, which will be available in rose or white gold, will have a titanium guilloche dial similar to the one pictured below.

At first glance the DB25 appears to be a classical dress watch, but up close one can see its styling has been modernised. Many of the design elements in this watch have been culled from other De Bethune designs – the convex hour track on the dial from the DB15 perpetual calendar and the Breguet inspired hands from the DBS. De Bethune has considerately left out the much maligned ‘bullet’ lugs found on all of its early models, they have been replaced by skeleton lugs derived from the hinged lugs of the Maxichrono. Bad as it sounds, this mishmash of design constituents comes together perfectly.

De Bethune Maxichrono  

What was especially surprising was the size of the watch. It measures 44mm in diameter, yet it will make a perfect dress watch. Despite its size the watch sits very well on the wrist and manages the difficult feat of looking elegant. The lugs are screwed to the bottom band of the case, that gives the dial and case a raised profile while still maintaining the slimness of the watch.

That size is with good reason, the calibre similar to the automatic movement found inside the enormous DB24 Super Sport, sans the adjustable automatic winding mechanism. This movement has all the bells and whistles De Bethune is known for – the titanium triple parachute shock absorber for the escapement as well as the ultra-complex in-house balance in titanium with platinum weights and a patented in-house hairspring – perhaps the escapement is needlessly complex but it sure looks cool. It offers a 6-day power reserve derived from double barrels wound by a titanium and platinum rotor. And like the Super Sport, the movement is finished discreetly but extremely well.

So what are the shortcomings of the watch? Well, for what it is in terms of function - a simple automatic – the DB25 is expensive. It is at the price point of the Richard Mille RM010 (which is even more costly given its intrinsic qualities but that is another story). That being said, the De Bethune is clearly the better watch in terms of finish, construction and innovation vis a vis the RM010. Reading the press release of the DB25 one sees the words “hand polished” and “hand-made” frequently and usually that is not a positive thing in marketing literature but in this case those terms are appropriate – the watch exudes quality.

In my Basel 2007 report I noted that De Bethune presented one of the most impressive, and also one of the smallest, collections of the whole fair. The DB25 has confirmed my strongly positive impression of the brand and I look forward to their 2009 offerings.