Independents
Ornatus-Mundi's exploration of De Bethune's early innovations offers a crucial look at how the independent manufacture established its distinctive aesthetic and technical language within just 11 years. This article highlights the foundational design principles and in-house movement developments that continue to define De Bethune's unique position in haute horology. Readers gain insight into the brand's commitment to pushing boundaries in both form and function.
De Bethune DB25 Reference DB25
The DB25 represents De Bethune's entry in the 44.5mm manual-wind category, distinguished by its silver dial configuration within the DB25 series. This reference launched in 2006 and continues the brand's approach to contemporary haute horlogerie complications.
The 44.5mm case is crafted from 18k white gold with a fixed bezel and sapphire crystal. Water resistance extends to 30 meters. The manual-winding caliber DB2105 movement provides a substantial 120-hour power reserve. The watch features a leather strap attachment.
This reference appeals to collectors seeking De Bethune's technical approach to timekeeping in a precious metal case. The extended power reserve and manual-wind operation position it for enthusiasts who appreciate hands-on interaction with their timepieces. The 44.5mm sizing places it in contemporary proportions within the independent watchmaking segment.
DB16 Tourbillon Regulator This watch has caused some frowning among watch connoisseurs - a regulator with a 'normal' dial? We'll come to this later. First we want to look back to its roots. These are of course laid in the DB15 , but the direct predecessor is the DB17 , essentially a DB15 with a more 'baroque' case (e.g more 'fleshy' bezel and more pronounced dial depth, classic style 'pomme' hands): Of course it features the 3D moon display... .. and thus looks almost identical to the DB16: That
DB25 Collection Let´s start as a warm-up with something you probably all know, the DB25WS3 (44mm, mechanical self-winding movement) with blued titanium microlight dial and hand-polished steel hands: On the next picture you get a first hint about what is new. Can you already spot it? (40mm, 39mm and 44mm cases) What looks like a DB25WS1 (far left) misses the power reserve indication on the dial (optional) and 4mm on diameter. On top you get options when it comes to the movement - self-winding or
The DB16 is one of my fav watches of the week. A fascinating piece. Thanks for the post! Fx
I consider that the right size for the DB25 is 44mm. Because it is the original size, because the larger dials are more enjoyable to fully appreciate the DB finishings (especially with the DB25L!!!), because the lugs are very short... Anyway, these watches are more suitable for smaller wrists but if I had to choose, I would not hesitate: if you can wear the 44mm, the larger size is the preferred one! Fx
The duo striked again, I felt a real pleasure in taking time to read these articles. One thing I noticed on the last DB16's pics I saw around is the watch's thickness. I must say it seems to be really thick, a little bit too much I would say. Anyway, the bezel width is very interesting and pleasing. I noticed in the first part that you shot a QP dial, but this one wasn't decorated with the traditional sun rays: was it a prototype that could be integrated in the DB15 or was it just an unfinished
Maybe the answer is that it is so different that it is just another watch. I noticed that the hands have a different (skeletonized) base in the 40. I presume it was made to lighten the hands in a smaller dial. Furthermore the power reserve is "eating" the hour ring, and I think this is something I don't like. I also noticed that these hands are not slightly curved anymore on the power reserve version (at the right end of them): It was a nice shape that disapeared here. Finally, the watch seems t
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