Patrick_y introduces WatchProSite readers to David Candaux, a watchmaker mentored by Philippe Dufour, renowned for his mastery of titanium. This article delves into Candaux's innovative approach, particularly his use of titanium for movement plates and bridges, a material notoriously challenging to work with. Patrick_y's detailed presentation highlights why Candaux's exquisite finishing on such a demanding material sets his creations apart in the world of independent haute horlogerie.
An introduction to David Candaux Watches, a watchmaker mentored by Philippe Dufour who has mastered the art of crafting watches in titanium. Not just titanium cased watches - but titanium movements!
David Candaux (photo from DC Press Kit)
We all have heard of movements made of brass and German Silver (maillechort). We've seen specialty movements from Jaeger-LeCoultre, Vacheron Constantin, F.P. Journe made with 18K gold plates and 18K gold bridges. But have you ever seen a titanium movement? And titanium is a hard material to work with, have you ever seen a titanium movement that is beautifully finished?
Typical movements are made in brass, which is then plated with rhodium. (Photo: Author's own)
Some movements are made of German Silver (Maillechort) which coincidentally has no silver in it. This movement is favored by some Swiss brands and some German brands. (Photo: Lange website)
This Vacheron Constantin movement happens to be made of 18K gold! Some movements from Jaeger-LeCoultre are made in 14K or 18K gold. And many movements by F.P. Journe are made in 18K gold! This is referring to the movement plates and bridges. (Photo: Vacheron Constantin press photo)
Here is a movement made in Titanium. The plates and bridges are all made in titanium! Notice the huge anglage/beveled-edges. The anglage is done on the titanium using traditional tools - titanium being much harder to work with, the anglage is much more difficult to achieve!
The piece has two balance wheels and a patent pending differential that averages the two balance wheels.
Another titanium movement, this one with a frontal Tourbillon! An exquisite movement with exquisite finishing on titanium! This 30 degree Tourbillon is beautifully finished front and back!
This 30 degree Tourbillon fits beautifully on my wrist.
I give you David Candaux! Mentored by Philippe Dufour, Candaux came from a watchmaking family and is a third-generation watchmaker. His father, made grand complication pieces for one of the biggest names in Genevan watchmaking - averaging less than two pieces a year (tres grandes complications). David Candaux cut his teeth at Jaeger-LeCoultre where he worked on incredible projects like the Antoine Minute Repeater and more.
You'll notice there's no crown at 3 o'clock, the round button at 6 o'clock is actually a push-button pop-up crown. Push it, it pops up, and wind the watch with it, then pull it out another level to set the time. No matter the position, the watch is water resistant to 5 atmospheres or 50 meters!
Since that crown has to be integrated into the case, that means this case is completely custom made, no generic parts. To find a case maker who will do this case is already incredible.
Back to the movement. David Candaux was mentored by Philippe Dufour and lives close by the living national treasure. It comes as no surprise that the movement finishing is bold and beautiful. Featuring a large top plate and a big bullnose anglage that is exquisitely polished. To make this level of polish on a German Silver or a Brass plate is already difficult - but David Candaux does it on TITANIUM! Even more difficult! The hard and ductile material is even more difficult to polish than brass and German Silver - especially using the traditional methods of fine metal files, wooden sticks, and diamond sandpaper. I conversed with David Candaux and if my French is correct, it seems he uses Grade 5 and Grade 7 titanium in his watches - both very unusual materials for watch movements. And when it comes to corrosion resistance due to moisture, titanium is incredibly resistant compared to brass and German Silver movements - if a case ever leaked water into the watch, the titanium plates and bridges would likely be still usable!
The Tourbillon is angled at 30 degrees, and the dial is angled at 3 degrees towards you. Incredibly well done! Notice the case of the watch is made of titanium, as the movement!
This brand is new - the brand debuted recently in 2017 - and I only learned about the watchmaker from another member (thanks Gary) many years ago - and I hadn't heard much about Monsieur Candaux since then. So I hope that our members learned about a very interesting new brand today! David Candaux! It's one of the few Maisons with a 10 year warranty!
All photos of David Candaux watches were taken by the author.
