Vintage
KMII's exploration of Chopard's pre-L.U.C. perpetual calendars from the 1990s offers a fascinating dive into a less-documented era of the brand's history. His post highlights rare references and their specifications, shedding light on Chopard's use of external movements before establishing its own manufacture. This research is invaluable for collectors seeking to understand the brand's evolution and discover hidden gems from a pivotal decade.
During the last couple of months I have been looking at watches from the 1990s in an on and off fashion, discovering what the decade of the real return of the mechanical watch has to offer. And while this endeavour is simple in terms of online search for some brands like Girard Perregaux, it has been exceedingly difficult in terms of Chopard. And as have started with the hobby in earnest some two years ago I do not have a raft of back catalogues to help me, so...
Still I found some very interesting perpetual calendars in the past weeks that I wanted to share. Having first discovered the 36/1208 (posted about it here: ,
Next come similarly rare ref. 36/91224 and the 36/92249. 
From: Live Auctioneers
Like the 36/1208 the 36/91224 is a combination of a perpetual calendar and a chronograph, powered by a version of the JLC 889 movement and produced in a limited edition of 50 pieces. This is packaged in a relatively modern sized 41 x 13mm platinum case. While the thickness might just allow you to slip it under your shirt cuff, the weight of 143g will certainly not make you forget you're wearing it 
The 36/92249 is also in platinum but without the chrono complication. 
From: Chrono24
Produced in a limited edition of 100 pieces and also powered by a JLC movement, this time a Cal. 888. The case is more classically sized at 36 x 9mm. There is a round shaped version of it, too, but I have not been able to find the reference number so far, just a picture (below). 
From: Robert Maron
According to the seller also limited to 100 pieces and with a 36 x 9,4mm case.
If anyone knows more, I'd love to find out more about them 
Thanks for viewing!
Still need to find the reference number for that one. Not so much a fan of its baton shaped hands but otherwise a very appealing piece
The references are certainly not easy to fathom...
KMII I am away from home this long weekend but will try to look through my Chopard references for more information when I'm back on Wednesday. Chopard released small batches of mechanical watches with JLC or F. Piguet movements before Chopard Manufacture was started. The chronograph quantieme perpetual calendar 'Luna D'Oro' automatic wristwatch was produced in batches of 50 pieces in gold and platinum. Regards, MTF
Looking forward to more details but no hurry - whenever is convenient
On Chrono but the references quoted there are not always 100% accurate Thanks for looking in any case!
Any additional info on the website?
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