New Release
MTF introduces the 2017 L.U.C XPS collection from Chopard, emphasizing its evolution towards purer, more refined aesthetics and detailing. This article provides comprehensive technical specifications for both the steel and gold versions, highlighting the collection's signature ultra-slim profile and COSC-certified movements.
Further to the LIVE photos posted by [CLICK] Ken H on PuristSPro, here are the technical specifications.
The new evolution of L.U.C XPS collection features new dials and a reworked case detailing to be purer and more refined. The understated elegance is derived from the finishing and flair for detail. The variations of materials and colours make the new L.U.C XPS a collection, from which, the PuristS can choose the right version to suit his personal style.
The watch word (sic) for a L.U.C XPS has always been chic understatement to complement a well-cut and fitted pinstriped suit or a seven-fold silk tie.
The first L.U.C XP model was launched in 2006, featuring the distinctive stigmata of a L.U.C XPS: an ultra-slim case, a movement with automatic winding via a micro-rotor and a generous power reserve, as well as an exceptionally elegant dial and a distinguished appearance. Each new iteration has featured these elements. Ten years after the first L.U.C XP watch, the new L.U.C XPS is now purer and more refined than ever.
Technical details Steel Version
L.U.C XPS in stainless steel
96.50-L movement (Chronometer « Twin Evo »)
Ref. 168591-3001
Case: Stainless steel
Total diameter 40.00 mm
Thickness 7.20 mm
Water resistance 30 metres
Stainless steel crown with L.U.C logo 5.00 mm
Vertical satin-brushed flanks and interhorn spaces
Polished bezel and case-back
Glareproofed sapphire crystal
Exhibition back
Calibre L.U.C 96.50
Movement:
Mechanical self-winding L.U.C 96.50-L
Tungsten stamped micro-rotor
Number of components 197
Total diameter 27.4 mm
Thickness 3.30 mm
Number of jewels 27
Frequency 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
Power reserve 58 hours
Two barrels - Twin® technology
Flat balance spring
Modern finishing
Bridges adorned with Côtes de Genève motif
Chronometer-certified (COSC)
Dial and hands:
White dial with grained finish
Finely snailed small seconds
Rhodium-plated numeral and appliques
Rhodium-plated hours and minutes hands
Rhodium-plated baton-type small seconds hand
Functions and displays:
Central display of the hours and minutes
Small seconds at 6 o’clock
Date at 3 o’clock
Strap and buckle:
Hand-stitched alligator leather with alligator leather lining
Stainless steel pin buckle
Ref. 168591-3001 – in stainless steel
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Technical details Two 18K Gold Versions
L.U.C XPS in 18-carat gold
96.12-L movement (Chronometer « Classic Twin »)
Ref. 161948-5001 – in 18ct rose gold
Case: 18ct rose gold or 18ct white gold
18ct rose gold or white gold crown 5.00 mm
LUC_XPS__161948-1001
Movement:
Calibre L.U.C 96.12-L
Mechanical with automatic winding L.U.C 96.12-L
22ct gold stamped micro-rotor
Number of components 172
Total diameter 27.4 mm
Thickness 3.30 mm
Number of jewels 29
Frequency 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
Power reserve 65 hours
Bridges adorned with Côtes de Genève motif
Two barrels - Twin® technology
Flat balance spring
Modern finishing
Chronometer-certified (COSC)
Dial and hands:
Silver-toned or black dial with sunburst satin-brushed finish centred on the logo
Finely snailed small seconds
Gilded or rhodium-plated numeral and appliques
Gilded or rhodium-plated hours and minutes hands
Gilded or rhodium-plated baton-type small seconds hand
Strap and buckle:
Hand-stitched brown or black alligator leather with brown or black alligator leather lining
18ct rose or white gold pin buckle
Ref. 161948-5001 – in 18ct rose gold
Ref. 161948-1001 – in 18ct white gold
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Technical details Platinum Version
L.U.C XPS in platinum 96.01-L movement (Chronometer « Poinçon de Genève »)
Case: 950 platinum
Calibre L.U.C 96.01-L
Movement:
Mechanical with automatic winding via L.U.C 96.01-L
22ct gold stamped micro-rotor
Number of components 208
Swan neck regulator
Balance spring with Philips curve
Classic finishing
Bridges adorned with Côtes de Genève motif
Chronometer-certified (COSC)
“Poinçon de Genève” quality hallmark
Dial and hands:
Galvanic blue dial with sunburst satin-brushed finish centred on the logo
Finely snailed small seconds
Rhodium-plated numeral and appliques
Rhodium-plated hours and minutes hands
Rhodium-plated baton-type small seconds hand
Strap and buckle:
Blue alligator leather with blue alligator leather lining
Platinum pin buckle
Ref. 161946-9001 – in platinum
Regards,
MTF
thanks for sharing, best, mahesh.,
jan gerboers, That is a personal choice that some collectors share.. Can you share your shortlist to help our readers? Which competitors currently produce an automatic micro-rotor winding, extra flat watch in 35mm diameter case? (Even those without the Geneva Seal and COSC). Regards, MTF
Unfortunately I don't have any such examples But seeing as how the movement here has such a small diameter, whats stops Chopard from putting it in a 36mm case?
The Calibre 96 dates from 1996. Still competitive. I don't have a problem with its current age and relatively small diameter. The recent 40 mm watches are fashionable for Americans. For Asians and smaller Europeans, there's the 37 mm A Lange Saxonia Thin. That's a reduction from the regular Saxonia 40 mm. In addition, there are the UN 40 mm Classico watches. The JLC Master Ultra Thin 40 mm and 41 mm. Even Patek's new time/date models are at least 38 mm while using older movements.
jim vancouver, Thanks for the shortlist. Most current gents extra flat watches are 40 - 41 mm diameter and even the Piaget archetypal ultrathin is 43 mm. I understand a Patek Philippe may be 38 mm. Ergo, the market has determined the current mode of 40 mm. Regards, MTF
jan geboers, As you answered, there are no current high-end competitors producing automatic 35 - 36 mm gents watches. That is what stops Chopard from making them...the market has spoken. The same base L.U.C movements are used by Chopard for ladies L.U.C XP or XPS watches. Those are 36 mm but in a different market segment. L.U.C XPS Esprit de Fleurier L.U.C XP Esprit de Fleurier Peony Regards, MTF
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