Chopard L.U.C Tourbillon Only Watch 2013 Fleurisanne
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Chopard L.U.C Tourbillon Only Watch 2013 Fleurisanne

By Kong · Jul 10, 2013 · 7 replies
Kong
WPS member · Chopard forum
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Kong introduces the Chopard L.U.C Tourbillon Only Watch 2013 Edition, a unique timepiece created for the biennial charity auction. This article delves into the watch's exceptional Fleurisanne engraving, a rare and intricate decorative art, and its symbolic DNA motif, highlighting Chopard's commitment to preserving traditional skills and supporting Duchenne muscular dystrophy research.

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For the 2013 edition of Only Watch, a biennial charity watch auction dedicated to fund the research on Duchenne muscular dystrophy, Chopard unveils a unique L.U.C Tourbillon model featuring movement bridges adorned with relief or “filet” engravings also known as Fleurisanne engraving – a highly distinctive and now almost extinct traditional skill typical of the Neuchâtel village of Fleurier.





An historical speciality of the village of Fleurier where the Chopard Manufacture has been established since 1996, hand-crafted, “filet” or Fleurisanne engraving is an artistic craft that has almost died out despite a glorious past in which it contributed to the reputation of the watchmakers from this area and the success the watches enjoyed as far afield as China. This highly distinctive and time-consuming art consists of relief-engraving decorative techniques on metal parts, generally gold movement bridges. Its specific nature stems from the fact that it does not involve engraving a motif as such but rather sculpting or ‘sparing’ it by hollowing out the material around it so as to make it stand out. The technique calls for total mastery of the tool and an extremely meticulous approach resulting in pieces that are truly unique in that each motif is entirely hand-crafted.


Perpetuating manual skills
The House of Chopard, which has shown a longstanding commitment to training the next generation of the watch industry, is deeply attached to perpetuating ancient skills, encouraging specialists in its decorative workshops to recapture this engraving technique in order to revive a local tradition. In 2010, Chopard’s 150th anniversary celebrations included the unveiling of the first 15-piece limited series of L.U.C Tourbillon watches featuring bridges adorned with floral motifs.

An exceptional one-of-a-kind model for Only Watch
For Only Watch 2013, Chopard has once again chosen to use this Fleurisanne engraving technique to personalise the movement of an exceptional one-of-a-kind model in which the different elements vividly testify to the extreme concern for detail that Chopard devotes to its watch creations.





This L.U.C Tourbillon Only Watch 2013 Edition is graced with a rhodiumed 18-carat white gold hand-engraved dial bearing the coat-of-arms of the Principality of Monaco surrounded by a DNA molecule – a graphic reminder of the cause to which the Only Watch project is devoted. Clothed in a 43 mm-diameter platinum case with contrasting polished and brushed surfaces, the L.U.C 02.17-L Manufacture movement is also decorated with a DNA molecule on the bridge side, crafted using the Fleurisanne engraving technique.





Every bit as aesthetically fascinating as it is technically sophisticated, this precious timepiece boasts a 9-day power reserve thanks to Chopard’s patented Quattro® technology and is certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC). The model is water-resistant to 50 metres and fitted with a matt black hand-sewn alligator leather strap with a cognac-coloured alligator lining.


Chopard’s in-house approach to watch manufacturing
Chopard is a family business with a strongly ingrained philosophy of independence. The steps involved in making L.U.C watches are all performed in-house at the group’s Meyrin and Fleurier production sites. Movement development, finished product design, gold casting, stamping and cases production, movement parts and bracelets, as well as traditional hand-crafted finishes, surface treatments, polishing, assembly, adjustments and quality controls: such is the comprehensive range of watch production operations fully mastered by Chopard and involved in the making of each watch in the L.U.C collection.


Only Watch
Recognized as the world’s first charity watch auction, the 5th edition of Only Watch will take place on September 28 in Monaco and will be conducted by the watch auctioneers, Antiquorum. Thirty three of the world’s leading watch manufactures have each donate a unique timepiece specially created for the occasion. The proceeds from the sale will be donated to the Monegasque Association against Muscular Dystrophy in order to help finance research for Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy, a degenerative neuromuscular disease affecting 250,000 children, adolescents, and young adults around the world.



Technical Details






Case:

¡      Platinum case

¡      Diameter                                                          43.00 mm

¡      Thickness                                                        11.15 mm

¡      Water-resistant to                                             50 metres

¡      18ct white gold crown with L.U.C logo             6.50 mm

¡      Glare-proofed sapphire crystals

¡      Exhibition back


Movement:

¡      Hand-wound Tourbillon movement                  L.U.C 02.17-L

¡      Mainplate and bridges in black rhodiumed      18ct rose gold

¡      Total diameter                                                   29.70 mm

¡      Thickness                                                         6.10 mm

¡      Number of jewels                                             33

¡      Frequency                                                       28,800 vph (4Hz)

¡      4 barrels, QuattroÂŽ technology

¡      Power reserve                                                  216 hours (9 days)

¡      Bridges with “DNA” motif crafted using the raised or “fillet” Fleurisanne engraving technique

¡      Chronometer certified (COSC)


Dial and hands:  

¡      Dial in hand-engraved silver-toned 18ct gold

¡      Gilded and superluminova-enhanced hour and minute hands

¡      Gilded small seconds and power-reserve display hands


Functions and displays:


¡      Central display of the hours and minutes

¡      Small seconds at 6 o’clock

¡      Power-reserve at 12 o’clock


Strap and buckle:

¡      Matt black hand-sewn alligator leather strap with cognac-coloured alligator lining

¡      18ct white gold pin buckle


Ref. 161929-9001 – in platinum – one-of-a-kind model


Press Release


This message has been edited by Kong on 2013-07-10 07:29:59 This message has been edited by Kong on 2013-07-17 20:23:44

Key Points from the Discussion

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The Discussion
AM
amanico
Jul 10, 2013

I hope to see that kind of finish in some other offers to come! Best, Nicolas

AN
AndrewD
Jul 10, 2013

It's rare for me to love the pieces from Only Watch, but in this case the dial and movement detailing is very nice. Perhaps I have a new found appreciation of the Fleurisanne engraving technique after seeing some examples, and the time taken to create them, at the Fleurier Chopard Manufacture. Beautiful work. I hope it draws appropriate interest at the auction. Andrew

MT
MTF
Jul 10, 2013

...from me. The rich depth of this Fleurier style of engraving is already rare and captivating but the deep meaning of the DNA motif is moving. I usually don't say "Wow" but have to break the rule for this Chopard Only Watch. It is an auction but I think this watch is priceless....... Probably the most relevant Only Watch that I have ever seen. WoW, MTF

CA
CaliforniaJed
Jul 10, 2013

.../that Chopard has produced such a delightfully decorated L.U.C. Beauty, to me, is often found in a "less is more" approach; in this case, though, the intricacy of the Fleurisanne engraving is irresistible, particularly as it adorns a movement as wonderful as this one. That the molecular structure of DNA is depicted is very cool, given the cause. Bravo, once again, Chopard! Best, CaliforniaJed

MO
moc
Jul 11, 2013

A big plus for me..... Fantastic looking watch indeed. Mo

MI
MichaelC
Jul 11, 2013

Great job here by Chopard of creating something special for the Only Watch. Thanks Kong.

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