Chopard L.U.C Regulator Baselworld 2015
New Release

Chopard L.U.C Regulator Baselworld 2015

By CaliforniaJed · Mar 9, 2015 · 6 replies
CaliforniaJed
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CaliforniaJed introduces the Chopard L.U.C Regulator, a reinterpretation of a classic from the brand's Haute Horlogerie collection, ahead of Baselworld 2015. He highlights its redesigned aesthetics, optimal readability, and the prestigious COSC and Poinçon de Genève certifications, inviting community insights on this new release.

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L.U.C Regulator

 


 


Aesthetic balance and historical precision

Chopard is reinterpreting this year a classic from its L.U.C Haute Horlogerie collections: the L.U.C Regulator model. It now appears in a version combining the elegance of the new L.U.C case with the horological prestige of the Chopard regulator movement. In keeping with the grand tradition of precision clocks, the six indications on the L.U.C Regulator are separated to ensure optimal readability. The COSC certification as well as the Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark awarded to this new L.U.C watch testify to its high rating precision and fine craftsmanship. In addition, the L.U.C Regulator features subtle symmetrical effects representing a noteworthy aesthetic accomplishment.

Both a high-precision watch and an off-centred display mode, the regulator is a watch industry classic that Chopard approaches in an extremely modern way in this model. Entirely redesigned to ensure optimal readability and formal elegance, it admirably embodies the founding principles of the L.U.C collections. Its historical roots, its rating precision as well as its harmonious proportions make it an authentic Haute Horlogerie watch.

Finely balanced proportions

After a first model in 2006, Chopard once again distinguishes itself by miniaturising a regulator-type mechanism to wristwatch size. Regulators are watches whose hour hand is not fitted in the centre of the dial. The steel case gives way to a timeless version in 18-carat rose gold. Contrary to almost all available regulators, which place the hours at noon, those of the L.U.C Regulator appear at 3 o’clock. This means they peek out beyond a shirt cuff and are thus legible in all circumstances. The avant-garde design of the indications appearing on the 2006 L.U.C Regulator is replaced by new indications characterised by a refined dial font. But the unique nature of the L.U.C Regulator also lies in its other atypical indications. Its dial features exquisite symmetry, with its four cardinal points each occupied by an indication. At noon, the power-reserve indication proudly indicates the autonomy of L.U.C Calibre 98.02-L on a graduated scale. The hours are placed at 3 o’clock, while the small seconds beat steadily at 6 o’clock.

The fourth of these strategically placed items of information is a dual-time display appearing at 9 o’clock. This GMT function is controlled by a corrector-pusher discreetly recessed into the side of the L.U.C Regulator. The date, which is visible through a window between 4 and 5 o’clock, provides just the right degree of asymmetry required to highlight the rigorous composition of the sunburst satin-brushed dial. The innovative dial font used for the Arabic numerals, featuring a wealth of subtle details, sets the perfect finishing touch to the extremely elegant overall impression. The same quest for visual harmony continues on the case. At 9.78 mm thick and 43 mm in diameter, the L.U.C Regulator is perfectly proportioned.


A history of precision

From the late 19th century onwards, the extremely high-precision regulator clocks were used for a prestigious purpose: providing the reference time in watchmaking workshops. So as to be clearly visible by the precision timers who were responsible for adjusting other clocks and watches, the hours,minutes and seconds hands were separate and placed on different parts of the dial. This display principle has been known ever since as the regulator type.

The L.U.CEUM, the Chopard Museum located in Fleurier, houses three major regulators bearing the signature of great names such as Berthoud and Blondeau. They are the source of inspiration for the development of Chopard’s L.U.C watches. Their precision, their reliability, their benchmark value, as well as their ability to make their way unscathed across the ages, form a set of valuable guiding principles. The L.U.C Regulator clearly belongs to this lineage in terms of its performances as well as its unique nature.

 Each L.U.C 98.02-L movement of the L.U.C Regulator has successfully undergone the tests conducted by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute, thereby guaranteeing its chronometric precision. The watch is thus authorised to bear the inscription “Chronometer” on its dial. Moreover, its case and its movement have passed the stern tests performed by the Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark, which certifies the fine technical and aesthetic craftsmanship of the watch, and in particular the high level of finishing on its mechanical parts.

In addition to these quality testimonials, the L.U.C Regulator also provides an exceptional 216-hour power reserve equivalent to 9 days. This performance has become a signature of the L.U.C movements featuring Quattro® technology. L.U.C Calibre 98.02-L measures just 4.90 mm thick, despite being equipped with the four barrels enabling this autonomy. These modest dimensions in turn make it possible to have a fairly slim case.

From its movement right the way through to the smallest details of its operation and its appearance, this model demonstrates the considerable importance devoted to the quality of its feel and look on the wrist, along with user friendliness and elegance.


 

 

Technical details

 

Case:

·    18ct rose gold

·    Total diameter                                                 43 mm

·    Thickness                                                      9.78 mm

·    Water resistance                                              50 metres

·    18ct rose gold crown with L.U.C logo                 6.50 mm

·    Polished bezel

·    Glareproofed sapphire crystal

·    Exhibition back

 

Movement:

·    Mechanical hand-wound  movement                  L.U.C 98.02-L

·    Total diameter                       30.40 mm

·    Thickness                                                       4.90 mm

·    Number of jewels                                            39

·    Frequency                                                      28,800 vph

·    Power reserve                                                216 hours

·    4 barrels - Quattro® technology

·    Bridges adorned with Côtes de Genève

·    Chronometer-certified (COSC)

·    Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark

 

Dial and hands:

·    Sunburst satin-brushed silver-toned dial with black transfers

·    Gilt dauphine-type hours and minutes hands

·    Black triangular hand for small seconds, GMT and power-reserve indicator

 

Functions and displays:

·    Central minutes display

·    Hours display at 3 o’clock

·    Small seconds display at 6 o‘clock, GMT function at 9 o’clock and power reserve at 12 o’clock

·    Date window between 4 and 5 o’clock

 

Strap and buckle:

·    Hand-sewn brown alligator leather with alligator leather lining

·    18ct rose gold pin buckle

 

Ref. 161971-5001 – In 18ct rose gold – sunburst satin-brushed silver-toned dial









Key Points from the Discussion

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The Discussion
MT
MTF
Mar 9, 2015

Jed, Looking back on my watch collection, I recall only one or two 'regulator' watches in the last 16 years; it's not common in my flock. Actually, I consider the jumping hour a sort of "regulator" with digital hour display and a regulator minute hand. Then, my regulator 'count' goes up :-) This new version of the CHOPARD regulator looks clearer in display, somehow. I like the GMT function that balances the dial with a 4th sub-dial. I also like the sub-dials being wide apart in proportion the wa

CA
CaliforniaJed
Mar 9, 2015

I cannot recall ever being attracted to a regulator watch, including previous offerings from Chopard. This one, though, is so well balanced. There is a clean order to it, and I agree that it is nice to see the 12 and 24 hour dials side by side in this way. I cannot recall Chopard ever using painted Arabic numerals they way they have on this dial either, and I like them. I suspect the presence of the date window on this dial might not please some. I will await judgment there until I see it live.

AM
amanico
Mar 9, 2015

It spoils a bit he beauty of the dial, because, yes, I love this dial! The movement? Top, as always. The case? A tad too big, but to be seen in the flesh. Making a nice regulator is not an easy thing. But Chopard did it well... But please, no date! And white metal case, too! Nicolas

CO
COUNT DE MONET
Mar 10, 2015

Being a regulator means to display time very technically, like a measuring apparatus or a water meter that shows depth of water or the water level. The trick is to make this apparatus look good. This one looks already very good but could have gained a bit more luxury, a bit more jewellery character with the help of indices. To incorporate a window date into this watch was surely credit to more functionality but why was it not a pointer date? If it would have meant to sacrifice one function then

CA
CaliforniaJed
Mar 10, 2015

And I'm not surprised you would prefer without a date! ;-) I would presume a white gold option will come with this one, perhaps a year down the line. Re the case size, this will have a nice, bold presence which will be interesting to see, and may very well justify the size. At 9.78mm, the case depth is a nice, relatively flat proportion to the diameter. And yes, the movement we know will be exquisite, which makes things like the date window, for me, tolerable! Best, CaliforniaJed

CA
CaliforniaJed
Mar 10, 2015

I agree, a pointer date might have been a more handsome option for the date complication, but the side by side 12 and 24 hour sub dials make this, IMO, a very functional watch for travel (acknowledging, though, that is not the utility one might naturally seek from a regulator). For now, for me, this one is a handsome and interesting watch I am looking forward to seeing, and a definite improvement, from my perspective, over earlier versions from Chopard. Best, CaliforniaJed

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