L.U.C since its birth in 1996, has been progressing well, concepted and manufactured five basic movements in the first successful decade (1996 to 2006).
This year, Chopard is celebrating its 150th Anniversary, and L.U.C is the focal point to highlight Chopard's know-how and capabilities in all facets of high watchmaking by launching another four new calibres which they have been planning and working for several years.
The four movements represent four facets of the brand: Retro, Contemporary, Ultra‐high‐end complications and Futuristic Design.
Besides focusing on the technicality, the aesthetic section was also refined with subtle changes. It is this attention to detail coupled with tradition, creativity and technological innovation reflecting and reinforcing a brand's understanding of luxury.
With the Designer's inputs, we will go through a few of the changes implemented and follow by more pictures of the fantastic Four!
The LUC dials have been using roman numerals for a while, and will continue with the tradition by incorporating the roman numerals from a beautiful 1960 ultra-slim watch (as shown in the next picture).
"These numerals are composed of strong verticals and very narrow horizontals giving them a strong personality which will grace many LUC watches."
The dauphine shaped hands used over the last the years from the start of LUC, received an uplift.
" For the LUC typeface, that will be used in both dial text and numerals, such as in printed minute markers or as applied indexes. This typeface is designed with modern proportions but minute detailing in the curves and serifs that recalls numerals from the 40s and 50s, the beginning of "modern" manufacture watches."
Dial with either sunburst brush finishing or guilloche radiating from the Chopard logo.
The overall case shape has some refinements, but with thoughts of retaining the timeless factor but yet contemporary.
"The main changes are a dynamic curve in the case section which creates a lug which rises up when leaving the case before falling away to a vertical end (as shown in above picture). This allows the watch to have a simultaneously curvaceous yet masculine appearance which is contemporary without being a fashion statement. This shape is to be found throughout the new LUC models with different proportions."There are other areas of changes too, which I will highlight along the way .....
Starting with the
L.U.C Louis-Ulysse - The Tribute ...
Limited to 150 pieces, a 3-in- 1 function piece of masterpiece. It's a wristwatch, a pocketwatch and could even be a table-clock!
Case is of white gold at diameter 49.60mm. Thickness will depend if it is being used as a pocketwatch or a wristwatch.
In wristwatch mode with the cradle system holding the watch, the total thickness is 14.50mm.
Dial is “lacquered ceramic” ... will be perfect if it is Grand Feu enameled dial. Chopard has originally the intention to do the enameled dial,
however it seemed that the EHG movement specifications do not allow for enough room for the minimum thickness of an enamel dial.
The pocket-watch is secured to the strap for added protection...
The above picture showed the detailed modifications to the lugs for the L.U.C range (as highlighted by the Designer).
In addition, an interplay of contrast was added with the interplay of satin finishing on the bezel and lugs, alternating with lustrous surfaces.
The new L.U.C hands for the minute and hour ...
The dauphine small-second hand...
with the L.U.C siglet ...
The founding year of L.U. Chopard ...
A side view of how the pocket-watch is secured by the cradle-system with the four lugs ...
The short strap besides securing the pocket-watch, actually plays an important role to in the aesthetic.
It actually helps to camouflage the pocket-watch to be more of wrist-watch, and not having an extra metal loop to sticking out
like a sorethumb.
Note the double step of the new lug-design ...
The backview ... to unlock the cradle, first need to depress the release button (labeled "PRESS" at 12 o'clock position) and then rotate the
disc in the direction said.
Another area to draw your attention to (as it may not be very obvious) ... L.U.C ensure areas which are not easily noticeable, are being taken
care and finished properly, thus the new L.U.C straps will be backed by natural alligator to make the back side of the watches as attractive as their front.
A new buckle design with has some aerodynamic curves blended with interesting matt and glossy texture...
The cradle system with its four 'claws' ...
It operates like a vice. When the disc is turned, the two pairs of claws will open up. Notice the gap at the base ...
From this side, may be clearer ...note the gap when the cradle is open ...
When closed, the gap is gone and the 'LOCKED' logo is in place ...
It is pretty neat idea. Somehow has the feeling the processus styloideus ulnae ( bulging wristbone) may accidentally depress and release the
lock.
Understand the edge of each claw need to be sharp to grip at a minimum surface area on the watch to secure it down.
However, the corners of the claws may need to be rounded as they are pretty sharp.
The pocket-watch by itself ...
The movement - L.U.C EHG (Ecole Horlogère de Genève), of diameter 43.20 mm.
Beautiful swan-neck regulator ...
The 18K white gold-chain for the pocket watch ...
Next is the
L.U.C 1937 ...
Limited to 1937 pieces in stainless steel case of diameter 42mm. This understated model has all the refinement made to the L.U.C.
Careful observation, reveal a very attractive sunburst slate dial and casework too!
The sunburst pattern seemed to be rippling out from the Chopard logo, and flowed over the bezel!
Even the caseback has a sunburst finishing, and paired with the double-alligator straps.
The crown was lightly modified too as compared to the earlier L.U.C models.
Looking at it, I would prefer it to be just 39 to 40mm in diameter.
COSC cerified L.U.C 1.010 beats at 28,800 vph, and has a power reserve of 60hours on a single barrel with stop-second feature, thus
the second hacks for easier and accurate adjustment.
The luxurious double-sided alligator straps...
with a macho ardillon buckle.
This is the most complicated model among the Four ...
the L.U.C 150 "all in one" ...
This model is a combination of a tourbillon, a perpetual calender and equation of time . It is limited to 15 pieces with three configurations
in term of case materials and bezel setting.
According to information provided, this model has taken 10‘000 man‐hours and 516 parts to develop.
To completely assemble one movement, it takes about 10days.
Case diameter at 46mm.
The thickness is at 18.5mm .
Quick set buttons ...
The tourbillon bridge was supposedly to be shaped like the L.U.C siglet.
Very less of the movement could be seen, probably due to many indicators which occupies both the dial and caseback.
The new movement is L.U.C 4TQE, which consists of four barrels providing a power reserve of 7 days.
Spot a ardillon buckle too...perhaps a deployant will be more appropriate for this large watch, similarly with the Tribute.
Last model is the
LUC Engine One Tourbillon ...
This piece should appeal to those who love speed as it is inspired by motor design concepts.
With a first look, the word - 'motor engine' flashed across. Indeed the movement, was shaped like an engine-block suspended in the case
with three 'suspension blocks'.
This model, the engine block is the dial. If you observe carefully, the Chopard logo is milled onto the platine!
Beautiful contrasting play on a titanium casing.
The sportscar engine shaped movement, L.U.C 1 TRM has a racing-track pattern on the bridges.
The COSC certified L.U.C 1TRM ( meaning 1 barrel, tourbillon, réserve de marche) beats at 28,800vph and has a 60 hours power reserve.
Observe carefully, the whole engine is suspended and bolted on three struts (located at 4, 8 and 12 o' clock position) as if it is
mounted on silentblocs ....
A layer of elastomer was inserted before the screw to act as a shock-absorber for the vibrating movement ...
Interestingly, couple of components in the tourbillon cage were anodized in red to add to its sporty appearance ...
To ensure the hour-indexes not block the view of the movement, the indexes were engraved on the second-surface of the sapphire
crystal and then printed black.
Power reserve indicator ...
" The lugs are designed to look more technical than the round watches, and they recall car fenders. They are milled separately and physically bolted onto the central part of the case." 
Note the sapphire and case... they are not flat, slight curved towards the centre ...
A better pic of the floating hour-indexes ...
Even the strap is designed with four raised ridges for a reason ....
... , so that it looks like the leather seats used in vintage sports cars.
A wristshot of the Engine One Tourbillon on a lady's wrist ....
In case, some are wondering if the rest of the two bigger diameter watches are wearable, we have done a quick experiment during
our recent Chopard L.U.C PuristS gathering. That post ( please click here to access ) contains more wristshots of the remaining three watches.
Hope all of you have chance to view the real pieces after these pictures.
KongRelated Posts:MTF's Basel 2010 Report on Chopard This message has been edited by Kong on 2010-05-24 10:35:40 This message has been edited by Kong on 2010-05-24 11:45:44 This message has been edited by MTF on 2010-06-02 04:39:10
