Manufacture
MTF provides an exclusive first look at the Chopard L.U.C 1963 Chronograph PuristS Edition, highlighting the brand's commitment to a 'purist' approach. This article details the unique Caliber L.U.C 03.07-L1 movement, specifically developed without a date disc for this limited edition, a testament to Chopard's dedication to horological integrity. MTF also shares insights from Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, emphasizing the meticulous development process behind this special edition.
Chopard surprises PuristS with an even more 'purist' approach to the LUC 1963 Chronograph PuristS Edition than first thought. Only 50 movements of the unique and exclusive PuristS caliber L.U.C 03.07-L1 have been homologated and approved for the Geneva Seal or Poinçon de Genève.
When planning the project, for expediency, we thought the movement would retain the date disk but without a date window on the dial. Furthermore, the crown mechanism would be altered to allow only one posiiton for setting time. The rationale was to maintain standardised torque and energy requirements for timing precision and Geneva Seal testing.
Chopard uses R&D project codes that are different from the final nomenclature of their movements. During development of their first automatic winding chronograph (LUC Chrono One), the R&D code was 'GT3' as a nod to the Mr Scheufele's admiration of the Porsche 911 GT-3.
The R&D code for Chopard's first hand-wind chronograph movement was 'GT7'.
GT7P-00-12 with no date disc for PuristS
GT7-00-12 with date disc
Cal LUC 03-07L Geneva Seal Approved
Karl-Friedrich Scheufele:
"The chronograph movement with date is called GT7-00-12 and your version is called GT7P-00-12.
Only for PuristS' eyes, I send two exploded views, where you can clearly see the distinct differences between the two calibers.
Further, I enclose photographs of the actual movements.
As I told you, for the LUC 1963 Chronograph PuristS Edition, we went all the way......"
Mr Karl-Friedrich Scheufele and Chopard certainly did..... in a most PuristS fashion.
How to order a LUC 1963 Chrono HW PuristS Edition
Please write to LUC1963 @ PuristSPro (dot) com (remove the spaces and add the "dot") with your real name, real e-mail address, geographical location and PuristS screen name...... to order your watch.
Do NOT use the website PM private mail system.
We will reply with the subscription process and the "special consideration" offer for PuristS that is NOT available from boutiques. The public price in the press release is CHF 28,000 but we can't print the offer.
It is an amazing offer for PuristS of the first steel watch launched by LUC with a novel LUC movement. Usually new LUC movements are launched in precious metal cases.
Only one watch per PuristS member and the offer ends 30 July 2014 or while stocks last.
Regards,
MTF
The Porsche Design Chronograph I, reference 911, represents a significant early offering from the brand, establishing its design philosophy in the watchmaking world. This model is notable for its minimalist aesthetic and functional approach, reflecting the brand's automotive heritage through its focus on legibility and material choice. It was conceived as a tool watch, prioritizing clarity and durability over ornate decoration, a characteristic that set it apart from many contemporaries upon its introduction.
Crafted with a black PVD-coated stainless steel case, the Chronograph I features a distinctive monochromatic appearance. The case diameter measures 40mm, providing a substantial yet wearable presence on the wrist. It houses an automatic movement, specifically the Valjoux 7750, known for its robustness and reliability. The watch is fitted with a sapphire crystal, ensuring scratch resistance, and offers a power reserve of approximately 48 hours.
This reference holds particular appeal for collectors interested in the origins of Porsche Design's horological ventures and the broader trend of black-cased watches. Its straightforward design and mechanical integrity make it a compelling choice for those who appreciate a blend of automotive-inspired engineering and practical watchmaking. The 911 reference is a foundational piece, illustrating the brand's initial vision for a performance-oriented timepiece.
went all the way with the PuristS movement. Now the wait is even harder! Best, CaliforniaJed
That is the advantage of a family owned brand like Chopard. Design changes and decisions can be made expediently. Regards, MTF
Putting on my marketing hat and concerned about project timelines, I was prepared to compromise on some items. Luckily, Karl-Friedrich Scheufele is a no compromise PuristS-type and he insisted on doing things right. In fact, he extended the R&D period to get the winding "feel" just right....we were a bit surprised that the piece was ready for Baselworld 2014. It was "down to the wire" as everyone got it to the Show on time. Only one piece was ready and stayed on his wrist. Only select client
I am slightly surprised that you really thought that they would simply leave the date disc without a date window and not modify the setting mechanism. No Swiss "quality" brand would ever do that (not even Tissot or Longines). What Chopard did is putting a plate to cover the empty space left over after removing the parts of the date mechanism. Nothing to get excited about. The real (let's call it Purist) high-end approach would have been to make a NEW main plate WITHOUT the unnecessary drillings,
Goldenlutin, Thanks for your further insight about other Swiss makers like Longines and Tissot. I know nothing about those as I have never seen their factories. I have seen both manufactures of Chopard (Fleuriers and Geneva); I looked for and found two key things there. I found new metal bars (steel, brass and gold) incoming and greasy machining waste outgoing. I concluded that they make their watch parts themselves from the screws, pinions, crowns, cases and movements to the gemsetting of the l
And a special development for the PuristS edition. A really stunning piece and movement. Cheers Andrew
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