Top Chronograph Watches: Best New Releases

sham1 · 2023-03-26T15:27:35Z

Explore the De Bethune DB8 Chronograph, a monopusher redefining elegance with its ultra-thin 9.2mm titanium case and uncluttered dial. A must-read for collectors.

sham1

WPS member · Independents forum

40 replies5746 views3 photos

In a world often dominated by thick, complex chronograph dials, forum member sham1 challenges conventional aesthetics with his discovery of the De Bethune DB8. His initial post explores how this particular monopusher chronograph redefines elegance and wearability, especially for those with smaller wrists. sham1's perspective offers a refreshing take on what makes a chronograph truly beautiful and desirable.

Beauty is subjective and I have never really been impressed with chronographs as their dials were either too cluttered with the sub dials and various scales, or the watches have been too thick,. My threshold for thickness is quite ruthless at 10mm as I do not have a large wrist and when a watch is too thick, it appears to be sticking out of my wrist.

Sundays are usually safe to browse at the watch blogs but not tonight with Watches and Wonders beginning tomorrow. I was totally bowled over when I set my eyes on the latest De Bethune DB8. For a start, it does not even look like a chronograph with its simple and elegant dial. It is a monopusher and even at 42.2mm, the watch will not wear large due to the short lugs. Best of all this watch is only 9.2mm high - now when was the last time a chronograph was released at below 10mm in height?! The case is in titanium, a metal that suits lightweight me.

I have registered my interest and am happy to join the presumably long waiting list. Oh yes, it is priced at 85,000 CHF which might seem steep to many but i know of time only watches priced more so the pricing seems 'reasonable' for this watch which I believe is a tribute to the early De Bethune watches from two decades ago. Well done De Bethune on this splendid effort!

Key Points from the Discussion

The De Bethune DB8's dial layout is praised for avoiding common chronograph pitfalls like squished sub-registers, with its clean aesthetic and larger minutes sub-register reminiscent of Patek Philippe's annual calendar chronograph, though it lacks fractional measurement ticks.
While the original author prioritizes watch thickness, another collector emphasizes that lug-to-lug measurement and lug curvature are more crucial for wearability on smaller wrists, citing examples like the Datograph which wears well despite its height.
The De Bethune DB8's 9.2mm thickness is a significant achievement for a chronograph, especially when compared to the original DB8's 38-hour power reserve, which has been extended to 60 hours in the new model.
The author notes that the DB8 Chrono is surprisingly thinner than the self-winding DB10, likely due to the latter's movement and gold case material compared to the DB8's titanium construction.
The author shares a personal anecdote about having cushion pads installed under tables at a favorite restaurant to protect his watches, highlighting his meticulous care for his timepieces.
The author confirms that the 42.2mm De Bethune DB8, like his Frodsham, will wear well on smaller wrists due to its short, curved lugs, which significantly improve comfort and fit.

The Discussion

VinnieD

Mar 26, 2023

That movement is stunning. I cannot see any pushers - is the chronograph operated via the crown? Best of luck with the wait, I hope it does not end up too long

Mr.Gatsby

Mar 26, 2023

Interesting to hear your preference for thickness. For me the lug to lug measurement is more crucial though. For smaller wrists, preferably this measurement should be no more than 49mm, and also depends on how curved down the lugs are. Never had an issue with thickness, for example the datograph. It sits tall but due to the overall lug to lug profile and size being sub 40mm, the wearability is great. My concern with De Bethune’s chronograph is that at 42mm and in absence of a wider bezel, it wil

Mike H

Mar 26, 2023

I also love it and these ogive-shaped lugs are simply superb. But the diameter is 42.4mm if I am not mistaking and I thought you consider only restrained size case for you have a chicken wrist size just like me What a beautiful watch front and back side, a feast for the eyes as always with DB!

sham1

Mar 26, 2023

Yes it is a monopusher so the chronograph function is operated via the crown. A perfect example of 'less is more'! I would happily wait a few years for this masterpiece - the wait adds to the desirability of the watch and final ownership experience.

sham1

Mar 26, 2023

I ordered a Frodsham in 2021 and it measures 42.2mm. When I tried it on last year, I was pleasantly surprised how well the watch fitted on my wrist thanks to the short curved lugs. This De Bethune also has short curved lugs which will contribute to its wearability. The Frodsham on my small wrist.

sham1

Mar 26, 2023

Thank you for your input. The lug to lug size is crucial I agree and for me 48mm would be the maximum which is coincidentally the lug to lug length of my incoming 42.2mm Frodsham. I am quite uncomfortable wearing thick watches simply because they are more likely to catch something and I am pretty careful with my watches. I even have had my favourite restaurant in Kuala Lumpur install cushion pads under the table to ensure that my watches are protected when I am seated!

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