Audemars Piguet Watches & Wonders Releases
New Release

Audemars Piguet Watches & Wonders Releases

By pfang56 · Apr 9, 2024 · 19 replies
pfang56
WPS member · Audemars Piguet forum
19 replies5653 views11 photos
f 𝕏 in πŸ’¬ βœ‰ πŸ”—

In this insightful article, pfang56 offers an exclusive first look at Audemars Piguet's latest releases from Watches and Wonders, providing a collector's perspective on their design and material innovations. His direct comparisons with pieces from his personal collection offer invaluable context for understanding the nuances of these new references. This piece is essential for collectors seeking detailed impressions beyond official press releases.

I think AP had a very competitive and exciting pre-release across multiple lines. I had a chance to preview some of them recently in New York, and wanted to share a few comparison shots and a quick and dirty comparison relative to three of my own pieces. Apologies for the brevity of my comments!

First the Sand Gold Skeleton Tourbillon vs my Titanium Tourbillon





I found the colour to be much like champagne - subtle, elegant, understated and a rich undertone. I was told that this mix also stays colorfast under different water conditions (salt, chlorine, etc) unlike other alloys, so it will be incredibly versatile. I believe the quantity will be low (less than 100) so this will be a special piece as the first release in the sand gold. I expect more releases to come later this year with this material.



Next is the burgundy Tourbillon, here compared to the same Titanium Tourbillon



And then my Burgundy CODE.



Well, I guessed it correctly that the dial colour on the Tourbillon is nearly (if not perfectly) equivalent to the Red Burgundy CODE that was just discontinued. It's a wonderful piece, and one nice thing I realized is that the new Selfwinding Flying Tourbillons have a thinner and more tapered bracelet vs my first generation version. A nice upgrade, and if I didn't already have a Red / Burgundy dial or a Tourbillon, this would have been a great combination!


Next is the RG Tourbillon, here next to my Titanium version



These models share the same grey Sandblasted Dial, but there are slight differences in the markers, the hands, and certainly the outer ring. Even with the RG case, it's a surprisingly understated and elegant piece, which I think will be a good fit for those who want the Tourbillon movement and precious metal without the massive bling (compared to a Double Balancier in the same material, it's very understated!).


Next is the new Openworked Jumbo Skeleton next to my Ceramic Perpetual

So I believe Chaiwat posted this earlier. Compared to the Double Balancier, this is an elevated Skeleton version with significantly more high-end finishing, inward angles, and hand work throughout the dial. Furthermore, the finishing is equal (if not better) than what I could see from the loupe vs the Perpetual. An outstanding piece and definitely a serious exemplar of the artisanship offered by AP (which I understand is actually completed outside of AP by former watchmakers from AP).

Next is the 37mm Diamond Ultra Thin Tourbillon

Another elegant piece with a bright blue Tapisserie dial, with the specialized ultra-thin Tourbillon seen in the RD3, and massive diamonds on the bezel, all in 37mm. Not a piece that I would get but one I do appreciate, especially with the ultra thin Tourbillon movement in a 37mm case.

Next is a sample of one of the CODE models with the new green dial.

A wonderfully elegant and elevated model in the newly stamped green dial. Side by side, it's really surprising to see the evolution of the entry level CODE models, everything from the date (window at 3 vs opening at 4:30), to the markers, to the textured dial, and to the hands, and it's a nice elevation of features. I look forward to seeing more colours and dials and complications in the future.



Then got to see the smoked YG Chronograph.

Honestly, was excited to see this one in the flesh, but it was definitely not my style. First I don't think I can pull of YG well, and I just felt the dial was very flat, as it was hard to differentiate the colouring with the tapisserie with the markers. Not my favorite piece at all.


Next was the 37mm frosted YG RO

Now this model was an incredible surprise. While I am not in favor of a 37mm model, I think the combination of a flat smoked dial (no tapisserie) and the frosted YG really made this piece standout. A special highlight and one that I would definitely consider if it was in 41mm, and one I understand is very different as well to the 39mm Jumbo.

And finally, not a new release but a fun one...

The RD3 vs Titanium Tourbillon. This was a special treat and one model I wish I had in my collection. I was incredibly surprised at the thinness of this model and it seems the Tourbillon beats at a higher rate than my own piece. Add to that the original blue dial, the slimmer case and bracelet, and the historical connection - if I was in new in the market for an AP Tourbillon, this would be my first choice. And that's a big deal for me as I do wear my own Titanium the most out of my current collection. Maybe one day?

Anyway, many thanks for reading through this - hope you all have a chance to see some of the novelties at a boutique near you!

Cheers
Peter

About the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Ref. 15305

The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak reference 15305 is a notable variant within the Royal Oak line, distinguished by its openworked dial and movement, offering a direct view into the intricate mechanics. This reference represents a more elaborate and technically complex interpretation of the standard Royal Oak, appealing to collectors who appreciate haute horlogerie and the art of skeletonization. It was produced in limited quantities, making it a less common sight compared to its solid-dial counterparts. The openworked design allows for an appreciation of the finishing and architecture of the movement, a hallmark of Audemars Piguet's craftsmanship.

The watch features a 39 mm case crafted from 18k yellow gold, maintaining the classic Royal Oak proportions. It houses the self-winding Caliber 3120, which is meticulously openworked and finished to expose its components. The movement provides a power reserve of 60 hours. A sapphire crystal protects the dial, and the watch is water-resistant to 50 meters, suitable for everyday wear. The fixed octagonal bezel, a signature element of the Royal Oak, is also in 18k yellow gold.

This reference appeals to collectors seeking a Royal Oak with an enhanced level of mechanical artistry and exclusivity. Its openworked nature sets it apart from more common Royal Oak models, positioning it as a piece that highlights Audemars Piguet's technical prowess in movement decoration and design. The 18k yellow gold construction further emphasizes its premium status. While not a double-signed piece as mentioned in the collector's post, the 15305 stands on its own as a significant openworked Royal Oak.

Specifications

Caliber
3120
Case
18k Yellow Gold
Diameter
39 mm
Dial
Blue
Water Resist.
50m
Crystal
Sapphire

Key Points from the Discussion

Advertisement
The Discussion
PF
pfang56
Apr 10, 2024

But I was pleasantly surprised that the Tourbillon pieces haven't really changed much in terms of pricing over the last few years. And, I understand they are relatively more available for earlier collectors, but your dealer may vary. But they do remain high for a sports Tourbillon model (significantly less than RM, but more than VC). As for the YG pieces, I agree they are much less competitive. I mean a YG chronograph or time only AP piece used to be under 25k, and now it's...a lot more! I must

PF
pfang56
Apr 10, 2024

And one that is my trusted daily driver. Thanks for sharing, Peter

PA
patrick_y
Apr 10, 2024

Your titanium Tourbillon was the best watch out of all those photographs of watches.

GA
gary_g
Apr 10, 2024

But for me, the new YG LeMans and 5236P with salmon are just perfect. They both ooze heritage. The sad part is that it’s unlikely that I’ll ever see them let alone have a chance to purchase either.

CH
Chaiwat
Apr 10, 2024

A ton of new information and pictures that you share are very useful, especially the comparison of tourbillon. A very good experiences to try on new AP release especially all are hard to see one in fresh.

MI
MichaelC
Apr 10, 2024

I would love to see these beauties in person. RD3 - wow. That is a real unique Royal Oak. And the sand gold skeleton - looks fabulous. Really appreciate you taking the time to share these new APs with us!

Advertisement

Continue the conversation

This thread is active on the Audemars Piguet forum with 19 replies. Share your knowledge with fellow collectors.

Join the Discussion →