Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo Overview
Reference Guide

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo Overview

By quattro · Jan 31, 2026 · 32 replies
quattro
WPS member · Audemars Piguet forum
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quattro's meticulous overview of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo serves as an essential guide for collectors and enthusiasts. This article, while acknowledging the vastness of the Royal Oak's history, focuses on key references and their defining characteristics, making complex information accessible. His work highlights the evolution of this iconic timepiece, providing a foundational understanding for both seasoned collectors and those new to the world of luxury watches.

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The history of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo is so rich that exhaustivity is both exhausting and almost impossible.

Therefore, I have decided to leave aside the openwork variants and the RD#3 Tourbillon.

For a more complete information, please read the following articles:



A/ THE INITIAL REF. 5402 - LAUNCHED IN 1972

Case dimensions: 39 x 7.15 mm

Automatic caliber 2121, Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 920/921 base. Measuring 3.05mm thick and 28mm in diameter, it is among the thinnest full-rotor automatic movements with a date complication.




credit: Audemars Piguet


1/ STEEL REF. 5402ST

The AP logo was initially placed at 6 o'clock, as in the document above and the photo below:


Somewhere at the end of the 1970s, the AP logo moved to the 12 o’clock position, as in the example below:












credit: Phillips, Monochrome & Audemars Piguet



2/ STEEL & YELLOW GOLD REF. 5402SA






credit: House of Time



3/ YELLOW GOLD REF. 5402BA






credit: Wind Vintage & Audemars Piguet



4/ WHITE GOLD REF. 5402BC




credit: Phillips




B/ JUBILEE REF. 14802 - 1992 COMMEMORATIVE EDITION LIMITED TO 1,000 PIECES

Production included:

  • 692 in steel with blue and salmon pink dials
  • 286 in yellow gold (14802BA, ivory and slate grey dials, gold and white dials added later)
  • 20 in platinum (14802PT, blue and hammered Tuscany blue dials, released from 1995 onward)
To showcase the calibre 2121, a three-part case replaced the monobloc one. 

Most gold rotors engraved with a 20th-anniversary motif and corresponding case number. 

Another notable difference is repositioning the AP logo to replace the 12 o’clock index.


1/ STEEL REF. 14802ST














credit: Momemtum Dubai & Watch Club London



2/ YELLOW GOLD REF. 14802BA










credit: Oliver & Clarke & Monochrome



3/ PLATINUM REF. 14802PT






credit: Phillips




C/ THE 1996 REF. 15002

Production remained extremely limited: only 174 pieces were made in steel and 12 in yellow gold.

The bezel’s bevel angle increased from 40 to 45 degrees. Additional tweaks included a slightly larger AP monogram at 12 o’clock and an enlarged Audemars Piguet signature.


1/ STEEL REF. 15002ST








credit: 41 Watch



2/ YELLOW GOLD REF. 15002BA


credit: Antiquorum




D/ THE OBSCURE REF. 15128ST - ONLY 50 PIECES MADE

This reference was made exclusively for the Italian market and the rotor was specially engraved with “Anniversaire Royal Oak Italie”.

Each watch was delivered with 2 dials: one green and one blue, both featuring a Tappiserie patern limited to the center. 

The uncommon Arabic numerals and the AP logo surrounding it are luminous

Last but not least the Arabic minute track is another unicum. 








credit: European Watch Company




E/ THE MODERN REF. 15202 LAUNCHED IN 2000

This reference stood out for its Grande Tapisserie dial, a departure from the traditional Petite Tapisserie, adding a bolder texture

The case returned to a three-piece construction with a sapphire crystal caseback.


1/ STEEL

BLUE DIAL REF. 15202ST.OO.0944ST.02










WHITE DIAL REF. 15202ST.OO.0944ST.01








In 2012, for the 40th Anniversary, the reference 15202 was updated with:

  • Petite Tapisserie dial with matching date disc
  • AP logo at 6 o'clock, like the very first ref. 5402
  • New rotor
  • New clasp.

REF. 15202ST.OO.1240ST.01.A






credit: 41Watch



2/ WHITE GOLD REF. 15202BC.OO.1240BC.01





3/ PLATINUM REF. 15202PT.OO.1240PT.01





4/ YELLOW GOLD

BLUE DIAL REF. 15202BA.OO.1240BA.01.A




GOLD DIAL REF. 15202BA.OO.1240BA.02.A





5/ ROSE GOLD REF. 15202OR.OO.1240OR.01.A


credit: Monochrome, The Watch Club & 41Watch



6/ TITANIUM & PLATINUM REF. 15202IP.OO.1240IP.01




credit: Monochrome



7/ ONLY WATCH 2021 REF. 15202XT

The central case and the bracelet are here made of sandblasted titanium

The bezel and studs of the bracelet are made of Bulk Metallic Glass (BMG).

The dark grey coloured (rhodium-toned) dial features the classic “Petite Tapisserie” pattern.


credit: Wristcheck




F/ THREE ADDITIONAL SPECIAL EDITIONS


1/ THE HOUR GLASS EDITION REF. 15205BA.OO.1240BA.01








credit: Sjx



2/ THE TWO "YOSHIDA" REFS. 15206PT.OO.1240PT.01 (PLATINUM) & 15207OR.OO.1240OR.01 (PINK GOLD)

These two references were sold exclusively at Yoshida, one of the oldest Japanese retailers, located in Tokyo.

The platinum model was limited to 70 pieces & the pink gold version was limited to 30 pieces.












credit: k2luxury & Watches.de




G/ THE 2022 REF. 16202 

The most significant evolution was the introduction of the newly developed Calibre 7121.


1/ STEEL BLUE DIAL REF. 16202ST.OO.1240ST.01 (50th ANNIVERSARY) or 16202ST.OO.1240ST.02








credit: Monochrome



2/ WHITE GOLD TUSCAN DIAL REF. 16202BC.OO.1240BC.02






credit: Monochrome



3/ YELLOW GOLD FUMÉ DIAL REF. 16202BA.OO.1240BA.01 or 16202BA.OO.1240BA.02






credit: Monochrome



4/ ROSE GOLD REF. 16202OR.OO.1240OR.01 or 16202OR.OO.1240OR.02








credit: Fratello



5/ TITANIUM & BMG REF. 16202XT.OO.1240XT.01








credit: Swiss Watches Magazine



6/ PLATINUM REF. 16202PT.OO.1240PT.01








credit: Watch Collecting Lifestyle


Thanks for reading.

Best, Emmanuel

About the Antoine Preziuso Concept Ref. 2000

The Patek Philippe World Time reference 2523, launched in 1953, is distinguished by its innovative two-crown system. One crown serves for winding the watch, while the second, positioned at 9 o’clock, controls the city disc. This design marked a significant development in the functionality and user experience of world time complications for the brand.

The reference 2523 was offered in two primary versions. The initial ref. 2523 featured larger lugs that extended above the bezel, with a case diameter of 35.5 mm. A subsequent variant, ref. 2523/1, presented a slightly larger diameter of 36 mm and thinner lugs that were integrated without extending above the bezel. Both versions were powered by the caliber 12-400 HU, which incorporated the world time module developed by Louis Cottier.

This reference appeals to collectors interested in Patek Philippe's historical advancements in complicated watchmaking, particularly the evolution of its World Time series. The distinct design differences between the 2523 and 2523/1, especially regarding lug integration and case dimensions, provide specific points of interest for enthusiasts tracking the model's development and variations.

Specifications

Caliber
12-400 HU
Case
White Gold
Diameter
35.5mm
Dial
Silver
Water Resist.
30m
Crystal
Sapphire

Key Points from the Discussion

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The Discussion
EI
Eikþyrnir
Jan 31, 2026
Bravo!

Extraordinary work as always mate! Lovely info and images - you keep on producing top notch quality content again and again, and I both applaud and appreciate it! 5402SA is absolutely sublime! Wish that AP would reintroduce more bimetal pieces as I just cannot get enough of them! Continuez votre excellent travail!

QU
quattro
Jan 31, 2026
Thank you so much for your very kind words, Eikþyrnir!

I also find the 5402SA very appealing. AP could reintroduce these bimetallic models, but the vintage charm is unique and a modern watch wouldn't have it, unfortunately. Best, Emmanuel

BE
Besançon
Jan 31, 2026
Is the one on top the same as mine? Dan you tell me some about mine? Thank you.

QU
quattro
Jan 31, 2026
Yes, it seems to be exactly the same: 5402st with AP logo at 12.

So, not an example from the first series. You might be interested in reading this article: Frank and his Vintage Audemars Piguet Royal Oak ‘Jumbo’ 5402ST And also this one: The Complete History of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo Series , where you can find the following explanation concerning the migration of the AP logo (cf. below). Best, Emmanuel

BE
Besançon
Feb 1, 2026
Thank you so much !!!

@L
@lberti
Jan 31, 2026
Amazing post...

I almost landed this.one, but the stars were aligned for a different client, who at that time had spent 2mio + at the house in geneva. This is what i was told.

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