Audemars Piguet Ultra-Thin Tourbillon 25643, 25656 Specs
Reference Guide

Audemars Piguet Ultra-Thin Tourbillon 25643, 25656 Specs

By quattro · Feb 24, 2025 · 13 replies
quattro
WPS member · Audemars Piguet forum
13 replies5705 views78 photos
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quattro's meticulous overview of Audemars Piguet's ultra-thin self-winding tourbillon references 25643 and 25656 offers a deep dive into a pivotal moment in horological history. His post highlights the groundbreaking innovations of these models, which introduced the world's first serially produced self-winding tourbillon wristwatch. This detailed examination is crucial for collectors and enthusiasts seeking to understand the technical and design significance of these rare Audemars Piguet timepieces.

First serially produced self-winding tourbillon wristwatch in the history of watchmaking, the ref. 25643 was introduced in 1986. It was, at the time, the world’s thinnest automatic wristwatch tourbillon, the world’s smallest and lightest tourbillon, and the first ever with a front facing tourbillon cage. 

Its bracelet variant, ref. 25656, was introduced a year later, in 1987.

The watch is powered by caliber 2870 featuring a hammer/bumper self-winding mechanism, the blued AP hammer being exposed on the dial at 6 o'clock. The crown is positioned on the back, on which some jewels are exposed.

The case and dial were designed by Jacqueline Dimier. Some say that she took inspiration from an Egyptian relief carving representing Pharaoh Akhenaten and his wife under a radiant sun (cf. below); others think she simply took inspiration from Astronomy, the tourbillon cage representing the sun with its rays falling onto the dial and the 12 circular hour-markers representing the planets.

Production numbers, from 1986 to 1999, were as follows:
  • Ref. 25643: 382 pcs: 360 in yellow gold & 22 in platinum
  • Ref. 25656: 19 pcs: 18 in yellow gold & 1 in platinum
A reference article concerning these models can be found here, on Watch Brothers London.

Best to you all.


A/ Ref. 25643BA (yellow gold)

1/ Standard dial variants

a/ Hooded end-links & pin buckle




credit: tokant 



















credit: watch brothers London


b/ Hooded end-links & double deployant clasp





credit: watch brothers London





credit: hodinkee















credit: lunar oyster


c/ Lugs (removed hooded end-links) & pin buckle














credit: worldoftimede (1) & atelier tempus


2/ Mother-of-pearl dial variants

a/ Mother-of-pearl rays on gold base











credit: monaco legends auction



credit: quill & pad


b/ Blue rays on mother-of-pearl base



credit: quill & pad







credit: @l951.1 



credit: sotheby’s


B/ Ref. 25643PT (platinum case & mother-of-pearl dial)

1/ Hooded end-links















credit: Paul Boutros on timezone 


2/ Lugs (removed hooded end-links)







credit: phillips


C/ Ref. 25656BA (yellow gold case & bracelet)

1/ Mother-of-pearl rays on gold base

a/ Full gold bracelet (code 765)





credit: orangdial, here on WPS



credit: monochrome



credit: TEFL certificate 


b/ Bracelet with mother-of-pearl centre-links (code 755)





credit: tradewatches


2/ Mother-of-pearl rays on 'chocolate' color base





credit: touch of modern 


TWO OTHER DIAL VARIANTS WHICH HAVEN'T YET SURFACED 



credit: watch brothers London 


CALIBER 2870










credit: watch brothers London (1), worldoftimede (2), forumamontres (3), Audemars Piguet (4) & DonCorson here on WPS (5)


EGYPTIAN RELIEF CARVING



credit: watch brothers London


JACQUELINE DIMIER (circa 1985 & 2020)





credit: AP Chronicles & Les Rhabilleurs

About the Audemars Piguet Audemars Piguet Ultra-Thin Ref. 25643

The Audemars Piguet reference 25643, introduced in 1986, holds a significant position as the first serially produced self-winding tourbillon wristwatch. This model was notable for its technical achievements at the time of its release, featuring a front-facing tourbillon cage, a design element that allowed for direct appreciation of the complication on the dial. Its introduction marked a notable development in the integration of the tourbillon into a wrist-worn format.

This reference is housed in an 18k yellow gold case measuring 30.5mm in diameter and 4.8mm in thickness. It is powered by the automatic Caliber 2870, which incorporates a hammer/bumper self-winding mechanism, with the blued AP hammer visible on the dial. The movement provides a power reserve of 48 hours. A sapphire crystal protects the white dial, which prominently displays the tourbillon.

For collectors, the reference 25643 is recognized for its historical importance in the evolution of the tourbillon wristwatch. Its technical characteristics, particularly the Caliber 2870 and its visible self-winding mechanism, contribute to its appeal. A bracelet variant, reference 25656, was subsequently introduced in 1987, offering an alternative to the leather strap of the 25643.

Specifications

Caliber
Caliber 2870
Case
18k yellow gold
Diameter
30.5mm
Dial
White
Crystal
Sapphire

Key Points from the Discussion

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The Discussion
PF
pfang56
Feb 24, 2025

And the savoir faire here - ultra thin, automatic - is outstanding. Peter

BR
bruckner4
Feb 24, 2025

Cue the Philip Glass!

QU
quattro
Feb 24, 2025

This is a wonderful model indeed. Best, Emmanuel

QU
quattro
Feb 24, 2025

It's AP branded and it can be seen moving through the aperture.

QU
quattro
Feb 24, 2025

remains very unique.

MI
MichaelC
Feb 25, 2025

Wow, I have never seen some of those. The dial with the light blue stripes is striking!

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