Vintage
In a fascinating exploration of horological partnerships, quattro delves into the intriguing world of double-signed Audemars Piguet and Cartier watches. His meticulous research uncovers a collection of timepieces where Audemars Piguet crafted the watches, which were then retailed by Cartier, leading to dials bearing both prestigious signatures. This article, inspired by quattro's original forum post, illuminates these rare and historically significant collaborations, offering a unique perspective on vintage luxury watchmaking.
The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak reference 15305 is a notable variant within the Royal Oak line, distinguished by its openworked dial and movement, offering a direct view into the intricate mechanics. This reference represents a more elaborate and technically complex interpretation of the standard Royal Oak, appealing to collectors who appreciate haute horlogerie and the art of skeletonization. It was produced in limited quantities, making it a less common sight compared to its solid-dial counterparts. The openworked design allows for an appreciation of the finishing and architecture of the movement, a hallmark of Audemars Piguet's craftsmanship.
The watch features a 39 mm case crafted from 18k yellow gold, maintaining the classic Royal Oak proportions. It houses the self-winding Caliber 3120, which is meticulously openworked and finished to expose its components. The movement provides a power reserve of 60 hours. A sapphire crystal protects the dial, and the watch is water-resistant to 50 meters, suitable for everyday wear. The fixed octagonal bezel, a signature element of the Royal Oak, is also in 18k yellow gold.
This reference appeals to collectors seeking a Royal Oak with an enhanced level of mechanical artistry and exclusivity. Its openworked nature sets it apart from more common Royal Oak models, positioning it as a piece that highlights Audemars Piguet's technical prowess in movement decoration and design. The 18k yellow gold construction further emphasizes its premium status. While not a double-signed piece as mentioned in the collector's post, the 15305 stands on its own as a significant openworked Royal Oak.
All beautiful pieces and some cool bracelets, like the last white gold tanks. Overall I’d go with a very classic piece I guess, the yellow gold chronograph with blue written dial.
The chronograph is exquisite, but maybe not quite as characteristic of the "Cartier spirit" as the rectangular examples: so I would personally be very happy with a double-signed Tank. The first one appeals to me particularly. Best, Emmanuel
Personally I think part of the issue is that most of us may be slightly guilty of romanticising our favourite maisons and not being wholly open to realising that they are not always as great as we like to think. It is in fact quite usual for many of the big maisions to outsource their cases, dials and hands and even sometimes most of the movement or parts of either all or some of these things. In fact it is much more rare for one of them to do all of this work themselves in house, Piaget whilst
A more objective perspective would undoubtedly allow for a better appreciation of the value of a brand like Piaget. That said, many of these AP/Cartier pieces are truly charming. Best, Emmanuel
For me, perhaps, the first Tank, the gold chronograph, and the round, yellow gold!
The history of the AP/Cartier collaboration seems very rich. For me, definitely the first one, or at least a rectangular piece. Best, Emmanuel
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