Audemars Piguet Vintage Grail Acquisition

toowoundup · 2021-03-26T05:36:13Z

Explore the rare Audemars Piguet Jules Audemars Tourbillon in platinum, featuring a unique back-winding automatic caliber. A deep dive into AP's 90s innovation.

toowoundup

WPS member · Audemars Piguet forum

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toowoundup's acquisition of a rare Audemars Piguet Jules Audemars Tourbillon with the distinctive back-winding automatic caliber offers a compelling look into AP's innovative past. This article delves into the unique design choices and historical context that make this reference a significant piece for collectors. toowoundup highlights the importance of appreciating AP's earlier, unconventional creations, contrasting them with contemporary trends.

Just got this in, a grail of mine, a Jules Audemars Tourbillon. This particular reference has the famous AP in-house back-winding automatic caliber - this means that there is no crown and 3 o'clock. You may realize that AP also put this caliber in the Royal Oak case. This makes for a very interesting design that I think is so unique. The watch is, of course, a tourbillon but also has a date function as well as a power reserve. Given that this is automatic, the inclusion of a power reserve is definitely questionable from AP but hey, that's what AP was in the 80s and 80s - a hot mess lol. AP made this reference in gold, rose gold and platinum (seen here).

This particular example has the rare "first series" dial with the old-style "audemars piguet" stamped at the 12 o'clock. From what I can tell, there are fewer than 15 examples of with this dial configuration in the D-36___ case range, making it ultra rare. After that, the case numbers switch to the D-39___ range. Over a 10-ish year period they made around 50 of these platinum tourbillons with various dial configurations. In the mid 90's, AP switched their logo design to a more bold font, which I think is less elegant. Fun fact: this watch was manufactured in the early 90's but only sold in the mid 2000s - that means it was sitting in the AD's window for over 10 years - perhaps understandable given that the original MSRP was around 180,000 EUR.

It's about time that we start appreciating AP's incredible past. Even in the 90s they were making such phenomenal and unique watches. Too bad they will be making superhero watches with Marvel going forward LOL

Key Points from the Discussion

The Jules Audemars Tourbillon features a unique back-winding automatic caliber, eliminating the traditional 3 o'clock crown and contributing to its distinctive design. This caliber was also utilized in some Royal Oak cases.
The specific reference discussed includes a tourbillon, date function, and power reserve. While the power reserve on an automatic watch might seem unusual, its inclusion contributes to the dial's symmetry.
This particular example is a rare 'first series' dial with the old-style 'Audemars Piguet' stamping at 12 o'clock, with fewer than 15 examples identified in the D-36___ case range. Later versions switched to a bolder font and the D-39___ case range.
The watch features a solid case back with a crown located on the back for winding. Early versions of this tourbillon, like the one presented, are distinguished by elegant teardrop lugs, which were later replaced by a less refined straight-lug style.
The original MSRP for this platinum tourbillon was approximately 180,000 EUR, and some examples were manufactured in the early 90s but not sold until the mid-2000s, indicating a significant period of inventory.
One community member noted observing this specific watch being reserved quickly on a secondary market platform, highlighting its desirability among collectors who track non-Royal Oak AP models.

The Discussion

RayStantzPhD

Mar 26, 2021

that is a truly awesome piece. Given the achieved symmetry of the dial, the application of the PR actually makes sense to me, at least it is easily forgiven! Enjoy your grail and wear it in the best of health! Cheers, Alex

MichaelC

Mar 26, 2021

Surely a unique piece.

toowoundup

Mar 26, 2021

I know, we can no longer use that word anywhere close to the word "audemars piguet" without cringing!!

blau

Mar 26, 2021

Stupendous! I love it.

doubleup

Mar 26, 2021

What a nice layout, no nonsense and to the point. I have always been a fan of tear drop lugs, the case reminds me of Kari. I have never seen this watch before thanks for sharing and WIGH. Is it a solid case back I assume ?

toowoundup

Mar 26, 2021

Solid case back but with a crown on the back. The tear drop lugs were only on the very early versions of the tourbillon. They switched to a standard straight-lug case style a few years later which is much less elegant

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