New Release
SJX's report from SIHH 2012 offers a valuable look back at Audemars Piguet's releases, particularly highlighting the brand's approach to its 40th Royal Oak anniversary. While the Royal Oak line saw significant updates, SJX focuses on the intriguing Jules Audemars 'Year of the Dragon' limited editions. This article provides a historical snapshot of AP's offerings during a pivotal year.
As has been written extensively elsewhere, 2012 is the 40th anniversary of the Royal Oak. Much of the Royal Oak range was remade. AP presented several very attractive watches were unveiled, but there was no spectacular complication.
Before going into the Royal Oak watches, a look at everything else. 2012 also happens to be the year of the dragon. AP is one of the several brands with dragon-themed watches. These are the Jules Audemars Year of the Dragon limited editions, comprising three tourbillons and one perpetual calendar.
The tourbillons all have a dragon in relief on the dial. One version in rose gold has the dragon on a gold dial, while the other two in rose and white gold have the gold dragon against enamel dials. These are rather ostentatious looking.
On the other hand the perpetual calendar is much more discreet with its white dial. From the front it looks like any other perpetual calendar. Instead the dragon is on the skeletonised rotor of the cal. 2121.
Another new Jules Audemars model is the Chronometre AP, first launched in platinum, and now in rose gold with a ruthenium finish movement. This is much more striking looking than the monochromatic platinum. As with the platinum version the calibre is entirely on display and wonderfully finished.
And now to the Royal Oak Offshore. First two – yes, a mere two – new Offshore models. The first is the Royal Oak Offshore Diver in a carbon composite case. It’s hard to go wrong with this combination of design and materials. A cool looking watch, if uninventive.
Also new is the Royal Oak Offshore in platinum. This has the chunkier Offshore chronograph case first launched in 2011, but it is regular production. Previous Offshore watches in platinum were all limited editions.
Given the new models launched, the Royal Oak had a subtle rather than extravagant anniversary. The flagship complication of the Royal Oak 40th anniversary line is the Openworked Extra-Thin Royal Oak Tourbillon. It has very elegant proportions – 41 mm in diameter and 8.85 mm high.
This features a new manual wind, tourbillon movement with three day power reserve, the cal. 2924 SQ. The skeletonisation is done in a contemporary manner with clean lines and a ruthenium finish. This is a fine looking watch.
But unusually for a Royal Oak, this is entirely in platinum, case and bracelet, which gives it a fairly steep retail price of about US$370,000. Only 40 pieces will be made.
Also limited to 40 pieces and similarly cased in platinum is the Openworked Extra-Thin Royal Oak. This is essentially the classic Royal Oak Jumbo with 39 mm case and the slim cal. 2121, except the movement has been skeletonised.
Like the skeleton tourbillon the skeletonisation is modern in style, in contrast to the earlier Royal Oak Jumbo skeletons which had ornate engraving.
While the finishing is excellent and attractive, the design of the skeleton work from the front is not my cup of tea. The base plate is not quite skeletonised enough in my opinion, resulting in a somewhat cluttered looking dial.
In addition to the skeleton limited edition, the Royal Oak Jumbo also makes an appearance in a guise very close to its original design. Available in steel or rose gold with a dark blue dial, the dial of new Jumbo is very close to the 1972 original. The dial has a finer ‘tapisserie’ guilloche than before as well as the AP logo at six, like the original.
Also note the date disc is now the same shade as the dial, which is a small but important visual improvement. Another key change is that the bracelet has a double fold clasp, as do all the new Royal Oak models, which should make it more comfortable on smaller wrists.
The new Jumbo case is 39 mm like the original, but has a sapphire display back to show the cal. 2121.
The new cal. 2924 tourbillon calibre in the skeleton tourbillon also makes its debut in a regular production Royal Oak tourbillon in steel or rose gold with a dark blue dial.
Like the skeleton the case is 41 mm but somehow it seems a bit larger than the skeleton. And the lack of an AP logo on the dial throws it off somewhat.
Also in a 41 mm case is the new Royal Oak Chronograph. Like its predecessor this has the Frederic Piguet 1185 calibre inside, but the case is 2 mm larger. And unlike the previous Royal Oaks the new chronograph (as well as the other new automatics) have faceted hands and indices first seen on the Offshore.
The chronograph is available in steel or rose gold. The dial options for the steel version are in the usual colours – white, black and blue – while that of the rose gold is black or white only.
The ref. 15400 Royal Oak with the automatic 3120 movement has also received a similar facelift. It has a 41 mm case and redesigned dial. Like the chronograph it’s available in steel or rose gold with the same dial options.
Compared to the ref. 15300 which it replaces the 15400 is not only wider but also thicker, and the dial seems to be set deeper into the case. While I am sure this will be well received I still prefer the proportions of the Jumbo.
A step down from the 41 mm case is the new midsize Royal Oak. It has a 37 mm case, in either steel or pink gold, with the option of a diamond set bezel. The movement is the 3120. Even though this is a midsize and presumably unisex watch, the proportions of the case and bracelet taper make it seem more like a ladies watch than men’s watch.
And last is the ladies’ Royal Oak with a quartz movement that has a date and no seconds hand. It has a 33 mm case in steel or rose gold, all with diamond set bezels. For some reason I missed taking photos of these, but you can imagine what it looks like.
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Full SIHH 2012 report in SIHH forum, http://basel.watchprosite.com/show-forumpost/fi-636/pi-5114288/ti-769238/s-0/
The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak reference 15400 represents a pivotal moment in the iconic collection s evolution, introduced in 2012 as the successor to the beloved 15300. This reference marked the transition to a larger 41mm case size while maintaining the essential design DNA established by Gérald Genta s revolutionary 1972 original. The 15400 served as the flagship time-only Royal Oak for nearly a decade, embodying the perfect balance between contemporary sizing preferences and the model s legendary octagonal architecture. Its significance lies in bridging the gap between vintage proportions and modern wrist presence, making it highly sought after by collectors who appreciate both heritage and wearability.
At the heart of the 15400 beats the manufacture Caliber 3120, a self-winding movement that showcases Audemars Piguet s horological mastery through its 22k gold rotor and 60-hour power reserve. This robust caliber features a frequency of 21,600 vibrations per hour and incorporates the brand s commitment to finishing excellence, visible through the sapphire caseback with its Geneva stripes, circular graining, and beveled edges. The movement s architecture reflects decades of refinement, delivering reliable timekeeping while maintaining the slim profile essential to the Royal Oak s elegant proportions.
The 15400 s design epitomizes the Royal Oak s distinctive aesthetic codes: the integrated steel bracelet with alternating brushed and polished surfaces, the iconic octagonal bezel secured by eight hexagonal screws, and the Grande Tapisserie decorated dial that creates mesmerizing light play. The silver dial variant particularly exemplifies the model s versatility, offering a refined backdrop for the applied hour markers and Royal Oak hands. From a collectibility standpoint, the 15400 has achieved significant recognition as the last generation of the 41mm time-only Royal Oak before the introduction of the current 15500, positioning it as a modern classic that captures both the model s evolutionary peak and its enduring appeal among discerning collectors.
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