Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Ref. 6005ST Vintage
Vintage

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Ref. 6005ST Vintage

By Semper Fidelis · Oct 11, 2015 · 30 replies
Semper Fidelis
WPS member · Audemars Piguet forum
30 replies17421 views8 photos
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Semper Fidelis unveils his rare Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Ref. 6005ST from 1977, a rectangular variant that challenges the iconic octagonal design. He delves into its unique features, including its Quartz Calibre 2511 movement and the meticulous restoration by AP Service Centre, offering a fresh perspective on vintage Royal Oak diversity.

My rectangular AP Royal Oak Ref. 6005ST from 1977 was a rare and lucky find earlier this year, clearly forgotten by most and hence not much talked about - but not without its charm and merits trying to diversify a design that was set to become a beacon of the steel sports watch.
There were only a handful of rectangular versions of the Royal Oak line, all produced between 1977-1985, many of them in the then-fashionable bi-color steel/gold, but all of them equipped with different Quartz movements...
While the octagonal 5402 was diversified into several lines making it either more sporty, more complicated or somehow more sophisticated, all of the rectangular versions show a distinctive elegant signature, being very slim and rather dressy.

A few interesting aspects of this first generation AP Quartz Calibre 2511, produced 1977-1980:
- high energy requirements of the movement
- after the ban of mercury-based batteries for ecological reasons, the electrical capacity has been halved and modern batteries' lifespan won't exceed 12months operation (they say)
- pulling out and turning the crown only operates the hour hand; in order to move the minutes, a toothpick has to be used to press an inverted button hidden in the center of the crown, essentially electrically moving the minute hand forward, synced with the hour hands!
- no date (meaning: beautiful!)

A few months after dropping this piece off at the seemingly surprised AP Service Centre here in Singapore, I received it back last week - it went through a thorough refurbishing in LeBrassus. And it was well worth their efforts, in my humble opinion... Thank you very much AP SC!
Hope you enjoy the photos!

Semper Fidelis


















About the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo Ref. 5402

The Royal Oak reference 5402 is recognized as the original iteration of the model, introduced in 1972. This reference established the design language that would define the Royal Oak collection, characterized by its integrated bracelet and octagonal bezel secured by visible screws. It was initially presented as a luxury sport watch, distinguishing itself through its material and finishing in a period dominated by more traditional dress watch aesthetics. The 5402 was produced in various series, with the A-series being the earliest and most sought after by collectors.

The watch features a 39mm stainless steel case, often referred to as the "Jumbo" size, which was considered substantial for its era. It houses the self-winding Caliber 2121, a thin movement derived from Jaeger-LeCoultre's Caliber 920, known for its full-rotor design. The movement provides a power reserve of approximately 40 hours. The crystal protecting the dial is acrylic, and the watch offers a water resistance of 50 meters, suitable for general wear.

For collectors, the reference 5402 holds significance as the foundational model of a major watch series. Its various production series (A, B, C, D) present nuances in dial text and case back engravings that are closely examined. The integrated steel bracelet is an integral part of its design, contributing to its distinct profile. The blue dial, often with a "tapisserie" pattern, is a hallmark of this early reference, though other dial variations exist.

Specifications

Caliber
2121
Case
Stainless steel
Diameter
39 mm
Dial
Blue
Water Resist.
50m
Crystal
Acrylic

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The Discussion
KM
KMII
Oct 11, 2015

I was tempted repeatedly but somehow never went for it. Looks very elegant on you. Seems that AP and VC both tried for a rectangular extension of their signature sports watch, VC with an automatic, though...

MA
Mark in Paris
Oct 11, 2015

I guess it is also due to the fact that nowadays these shapes are back in fashion, however, this one, the thinness, the RO style and the case are very appealing. Congratulations for you purchase and thanks for sharing, I didn't know such a version existed. Cheers, Mark

SE
Semper Fidelis
Oct 11, 2015

Appreciate your kind comments - I believe the case and design of this timepiece are indeed very special and am glad to see knowledgable and passionate watch aficionados such as yourselves share my view... Cheers!

MI
Mizur9999
Oct 11, 2015

Wow, what a stunning watch. Never have seen it before, in some ways I like it more than regular RO. The designs back then were truly special. I am waiting for a new Gerald Genta to appear one of these days. No watch designer come even close to him today. Your watch is an real icon. Congratulations!

MI
MichaelC
Oct 11, 2015

Thanks for sharing them!! And congrats, I love that you have and enjoy this watch.

RI
Richard C
Oct 11, 2015

That's quite a find. I also had no idea a square Royal oak existed. Very classy indeed. The super-flat, square design goes particularly well with the integrated bracelet. Maybe better than the original.

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